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F22. The journey to 2.2 Liters of SOHC greatness

141K views 818 replies 82 participants last post by  Whoshot  
#1 ·
So this is where the thread begins.

Here is a run down of the plan.

F22A6 engine, junk yard. Milled head with 5 angle valve job and port job.
Colt cam, stage 2. Plan for an 7500rpm red line. Maybe 8000rpm if itll carry.

PRB K20A2 Intake manifold for clearance int he ED engine bay.
B series TB, going to run OBD1
Still thinking about the exhaust manifold
DIY F2B without adapter plate.
Hasport mounts






I figured I would start a thread because today I made the first steps of progress to the build coming together. To figure out what TB I was going to use. B series or K. I had the parts, so I figured Id try it to see how it would work.

My Accord K24 TB didnt even fit the PRB IM.

Now for the B...

Turns out three of the 4 bolt holes line up. Perfect. Thats enough for me.

The PRB IM has a weird little bypass pocket. I found the perfect little thing to plug it. Its the shifter bushing kit for the acura/hondas. It has 4 o-rings and a steel sleeve, fits perfectly into the hole and plugs it right up after you punch out the freeze plug.

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I used a bolt and nut with some crush washers to seal the hole in the middle. Some weld would work too.

Use Permatex gray very very thin layer for your gasket. Maybe slot the bolt holes out a little to completely seal the IACV port in the TB (or fill with JB weld) and to center TB a little better. Id say its at 95% right now, could be a hair better.

Anyways heres the pics. All I need to do now is drill and tap for a remove IACV plate.

Heres the plug.

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LS TB on the PRB IM. three of four bolts right there. Throttle cable goes under the IM.

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No overlap.

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Inside view.

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I will keep updating as I make progress.

Still need to pick up a core engine to work on, and finalize how I want to bolt this IM to the F head.
 
#7 ·
#9 · (Edited)
whats the main difference between the F22A1 and F22B2..?

i hear the A2's have more power stock and you can bolt H22 trannys and heads right up with lil mods...
 
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#13 ·
whats the main difference between the A1 and A2..?

i hear the A2's have more power stock and you can bolt H22 trannys and heads right up with lil mods...
You talking about blocks? The f series had the a1/a4/a6 for the heads in obd1. Obd2 was b1/2 iirc. B1/2 was a garbage head. F23 also had issues with port design whereas the a/x heads were great for porting but lack a great can out of the gate. The a6 came with a windage tray abigger ccan and a different intake manifold. Also a better flowing exhaust. Danz is going with the best in the a lineup from the start. This thing will push over 200 HP all day when he's done. Mine will be closer to 175-190 because of fuel constraints and a sightly different layout. F23 block, k20a3 pistons, a4 head, colt cam and ported and spaced a4 intake Mani. Was gonna go with the a6/h23 combo but I don't want iab's. Can get the same results without adding extra wiring. Also doing a balance shaft delete which km sure danz will be doing as well.

Danz. Just remember to read up on the process extensively because there is some oil holes that need plugging up in the balance shaft area under the girdle. This keeps the oil pressure up.
 
#12 ·
Exciting stuff. Subbed!
 
#14 ·
^^^ ya, i just edited my post...

i meant to ask about the difference between the F22A1 and F22B2 motors in general...
 
#32 ·
Hoove, most B2 (non-vtak) head internals will interchange with Ax parts. B1 parts are VTEC, which only interchanges with F23 VTEC parts. There are easy OBD1 dizzy options for all F-series, so that shouldn't be something to worry about. I've shown how to make external coil distributors internal coil in my H2B thread, so external coil parts shouldn't worry you either.





The only big differences on the shortblocks is the oil pumps - the B2 has two crank sensors bolted to the oil pump, while the Ax have them in the distributor. They're similar to OBD1 & OBD2 D/B motors in that respect. The thermostat & water tube are also different, but you just use the corresponding parts for the head you use. The crank, rods, pistons, block, and all other internals are the same.

Their heads are quite a bit different. The cams, springs, valves, and most other internal head parts are interchangable, it's mostly the head casting that's different. The ports are very different, the intake manifold & fuel rail are very different, and it tends to have less potential. The B2 exhaust ports flows a hair better than an Ax head [before porting] while the B2 intake ports & manifold flow less. It's not the best for peak HP, but kicks ass for torque.

The sohc vtec F22B1 head is closer to the B2 in design, so the F23 head is the only VTEC F-series head you'll want. The F23 intake manifold fits both the B1 and B2 motor and is better in every respect - as long as you know how to convert to a remote IACV setup.
 
#19 ·
I might go with the skunk2 h2k or I might just redrill the IM and do it direct bolt on RHMT style. We will see what happens...

With the plateless F2B he has in mind, a normal Accord F22 header will sit just like a B-series header. The b-series cat location is all of 1-2" over from a d-series cat. My ebay f22 header needed *no modding* to fit up to the existing b-series exhaust. It actually is a nice piece - very long & large primaries, very long & gradual merges.


BTW if you don't put a million pics up of how to get that K20 manifold onto an F22, I will replacing all my H2B pics with ms-paint'd "Danz sucks!!!:fawk:"

:devil:

No worries it will happen. Lots of pics. And yes exactly what you said about the header situation. Ebay or OEM tubular are my go to first options. Fab one from scratch 2nd option, so much work...

What's this? porting a head, aftermarket cam, increasing redline.... You sir have no idea what it takes to make power... :p


Lets hope it all goes to plan. If I can see 180whp and 170ftlbs of tq I will be happy. With a super super fat bottom end tq curve.
 
#22 ·
NAPA has them. Right click the image for the part number and call NAPA.



So I just pulled the trigger on a new TPS, a K series thermal IM gasket, and i am about to pull the trigger on a F22Ax header as well. Its so hard to argue with $75 dollars. And if it needs tweaking to make it line up, I can torch and bend at work. :D
 
#26 ·
Putting in a little more work on the TB/IM situation.

Looks like I should be able to build a bracket and redrill a few holes to get the K series IM on the F22 head. Should be pretty easy.




As for the TB and IACV, I tapped the TB where the IACV air port is, since its going to be blocked off by the K series IM TB flange.

Now, I will route this air line to a remote IACV plate, mount the IACV plate to that, and then re-route the air back to the IM plenum through a hole I will drill and tap, once I decide where the best place will be (clearance issues mean I will wait until the IM is on the head in the engine bay before I decide).

11/32" drill bit for 1/8ths 27TPI NPT.

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Tap about half way down.

Should thread in about half way by hand.

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Probably end up using these sweet fittings I got from Greg @ Go-Autoworks.com. Love his stuff.

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And heres an inside view of the IACV air port in the TB, and where I've tapped into it for the remote IACV plate.

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#28 ·
Tits man! Glad to see yours coming along
 
#30 ·
Seen it, worst music ever. lol.I love the hush crew though those guys always putting in SOHC work.

My build is going to be very similar to what they did. Great minds think alike, but I guess they also say simple minds rarely differ. Hahaha. Love those sayings.
 
#33 ·
Put in some more work on the remote IACV situation.

Fabbed up a remote plate. Marked the holes for the bolts with a pencil, drilled with 17/64ths drill bit, tapped to M8x1.25, slid the bolts in, painted the gasket, bolted it up, dropped the plate off, drew a cross through the middle and there you see it.

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Kitchen machine shop! lol

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Drilled the two holes for the air ports with 11/32nds, tapped with 1/8th NPT.

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More GO-AUTOWORKS LLC - WWW.GO-AUTOWORKs.COM sweet air fittings, good to 300psi or something silly. lol.

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IACV bolted up to remote plate.

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All hooked up! I drilled a 11/32nds hole in the bottom of the PRB IM, and tapped it for 1/8th NPT. Of course I will shorten the lines. It looks like I should be able to mount the IACV plate under the IM away from everyones eyes. Its pretty ugly!

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#35 ·
Only fitment issue I had with my ebay header was with a tube from the AC compressor. But the tube was easily tweaked outta the way.

Also took the die grinder to the inside of the flanges and fixed up some slop, 20-30 mins. Figured every bit helps