How's it going just stumbled across this while looking for a carb sticker for my car..I've recently installed a jrsc kit on my daily 99 civic ex d16y8 stock making 8 pounds of pressure.. it was a pain tracking down any info when I started installation luckily I found a car that was being parted out and had a complete kit. Car had been posted for a year but post was active so I contacted the seller and boom was still available,guy's post was horrible but I'm glad it was I finally got my kit I've been wanting since my high school days when they were new..I'll post pics when I can,and try and help with any questions I can..

 

The modified lower alternator bracket that came with the D16y7/y8 kits was simply a modified OEM lower bracket that was shaved to accommodate the offset of the 3-rib y7/y8 supercharger pulley. What you posted is not the modified OEM bracket.

The oil quantity for the 3rd generation Eaton M45 is 146ML. This info was provided to me via email by Thomas Stevens from Magnuson in October 2013.

Good write up though, I like that you are helping to spread this information.

 

Thanks for that clarification!!
I spent a lot of time reading your posts.

So were you able to use the stock crank pulley and alternator mount for your CRX install?

 

I decided to cut my own gaskets using this gasket material and my Nasum Pro A5 Laser Cutter. I sketched it in Fusion 360 and exported the DXF into LightBurn.

The old gasket was torn and worn out

The new gasket cut on the laser

 

I tried to PM you about gaskets but my acct is new. if you still have the ability to make them, could you possibly shoot me a price!

 

I refined my laser settings and drawings and finally got 3 nearly perfect gaskets. If anyone needs them just ask me and I can cut you a set.

 

If you are new to installing a JRSC, then it’s a good idea to learn these terms! Today was spent transferring parts from my OEM intake manifold to the super charger. My JRSC came with some parts that weren’t meant for my generation of D Series. I also replaced the fuel filter. Removing the banjo bolts was easy with an impact wrench and a 17mm socket. No need to remove the service socket either.

The previous owner of the JRSC had this Idle Air Control Valve on but I needed to replace it with the one off my CRX. I cleaned the mesh screen inside

Replaced

This was helpful diagram

D16A6 JRSC Map/hose line Diagram, is this correct?

After two years of being off my old D16A6 and sitting in a box, I’m finally working on getting my JRSC originally for the D16A6 on to my DOHC ZC (Which only has recently been put back together after being apart for close to 10 years.). I’m a little out of my depth, everything is a learning...

www.d-series.org

I also rebuilt my DCM injectors. I can’t attach a pic to this post so will try another post.

 

I got my CRX smogged today back in stock form. I was a little worried about it passing but it passed with flying colors. As soon as I have some free time I will continue back with putting in the JRSC which I'm really looking forward to!

 

Im 99.9% these sebring M45s are gen 3. From my research you are defiantly going to want to get those bores and rotors coated and the clearances between all three parts closed considerably if you want the as specified performance. I think you might be surprised with how much of an effect you can have on aluminum bores using powered tools guided by hand when trying to work in the realm of + - .005" being quite a bit.

That said I guess on the upside of bigger gaps will mean less power but less heat to deal with? But I do not know. One theory I read about on a GM site had people happily running their crankcase gasses in front of the SC to provide a continuous wearable coating of gunk that perpetually maintained a gap of .0000001" between the two sticky surfaces no mater what gaps you start out with.
Another gap filling theory is adding water/meth (choose your formula and tune) injection before the rotors to provide sealing (and charge cooling). The smart guy Pat Primer (R.I.P) that posted here allot made a really good argument for letting water/meth injection be as close to water as possible because one is injecting fuel later. Keep the apples and oranges separate and know givens. There is a massive JRSC thread on honda tech...

I have a D16y8 JRSC that has Sebring cast into it!! I bought it 3 years ago and you are further along than me with the supercharger so good stuff!!!

 

I had a slight delay on the next parts of my build because the 12 ton Press I bought had a defective jack. My next steps were to replace the bearings. I needed this press to remove them. It cost me $130 at HF along with another $60 in press tools from Amazon. My rebuild kit came with an extra bearing that seems to have been a mistake as it wasn't listed on the listing photo.

I've been following DIY KAI on YouTube for this section. He's got some excellent detailed videos on his process.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPG0i0qXulZbt3-cwPGTkYw

 

Decided I would paint my super charger. The previous owner painted it black but it wasn’t done well. I got it all back together with my custom gaskets, added 4oz of supercharger oil. The oil drain plug comes off with a T-30 Torx.

 

I hate the idea of undampened crankshafts, its so bad for the poor crank and bearings running without one!

If the engine is a hit it and quit it type (one blast pass) drag racing, then get a rebuild after only a couple passes, there MIGHT be benefits to run without a harmonic damper. Other than that, zero reason to NOT have one.

What Does a Harmonic Balancer do?

Harmonic balancers are a staple ingredient of any engine build, but what do they really do? Do you have to have one? Is bigger really better? We clear the air about the right balancer to hang on your crankshaft.

blog.k1technologies.com

Harmonic Balancers and Dampers - Engine Builder Magazine

Although harmonic balancers are not musical instruments, they do control resonance inside the engine, which is music in some circles. There are three types of engine vibration that engine builders try to minimize. And each type of vibration has a different way of controlling it.

www.enginebuildermag.com

 

snazzy gasket maker..

 

haha! Nevermind snazzy, that thing's fuckin' tits!

 

While I don't claim to be an expert on boosting, I do spend a lot of time researching and understanding how things work and I wanted to pass on what I've learned on this journey of supercharging my USDM 1991 CRX Si. Hopefully this guide will help you on your journey as well.

If you've been following this thread and maybe contemplating on installing your own JRSC, these are the steps to take.

First make sure your engine is running strong with no CEL's. The expectation is that I will gain 35-50HP from installing this supercharger on my stock engine. I performed a compression test to determine health of engine. My D16A6 engine measured 180psi dry and 210 psi wet. After performing the wet test, I realized my dry numbers may have been lower than optimal due to not cranking the engine enough. But the numbers were high enough not to care about further testing. All my cylinders were pretty close and none were drastically off. It should be obvious that boosting your engine will increase the pressure on your engine internals so you want to make sure it can withstand this.

Acquire Jackson Racing Super Charger. Make sure it includes the parts you need. For D16A6, you need the tensioner bracket and preferably stock snout pulley. Offset alternator bracket isn’t needed for this setup. You will use the OEM Crank Pulley.

Paterico says "With the A6 crank pulley and a 3.2" blower pulley you're probably looking at 8lbs. I would encourage you to stick with the 3.4" blower pulley (if you have the A6 kit) and use a D16y8 crank pulley to get to around 8lbs of boost. Smaller pulleys are more prone to slippage, especially if you're using a 3-rib setup. I'm planning on using a D16y8 crank, 4-rib 3.2" blower pulley and a 4-rib D16y8 alternator pulley in my setup to make sure slippage isn't an issue."

Remember more power is made by increasing boost with a larger crank pulley and smaller snout pulley. The OEM crank pulley is dampened. There has always been much controversy on this but the general consensus for a daily driver is don’t change to a non dampened one unless you enjoy rebuilding engines.

Will you stay OBD0 or upgrade to OBD1?
I’m staying OBD0

Get a Windows laptop running Windows from the era 2000-2015

Chip your ECU (I used Conrad_1974 who sells modified ECU's on eBay)

Buy an emulator & chip programmer- I went with a Moates Ostrich 2.0
Decide software of choice for tuning- I decided to use Turbo Edit. Check out PGMFI for details.
Once you've gathered everything, then actually confirm everything works.
Swap ECU with chipped ECU
Download chipped ECU base map to computer to verify you can read the chips (I could download but the map was modified with Tuner Express so I couldn’t open it with Turbo Edit.)
Transfer base map to Emulator
Plug Emulator into chipped socket and verify car still runs normally. Battery in emulator lasts up to two years so technically you could just drive the car normally with the emulator plugged in

Install Wideband AFR. I used unused connectors in the under dash fuse panel and confirmed voltage with a voltmeter. I noticed when engine was on, gauge was on. When headlights turned on, gauge turned off. I thought maybe this power connector was used for daytime running lights or something that only works when the headlights are off. I decided to use a different ground and connect the yellow dimming wire to this and now when headlights are on the display dims as it should. I 3d printed a mount for my gauge. (The Lock/Unlock Switch is from a previous project that hasn't been refined yet for my door locks)

Install Boost Gauge (Just needs 12v power and ground). I wanted my gauge to be hidden. I removed the silkscreen logo and "turbo" by sanding and polishing it off. Paint thinner actually melted the tinted plastic case. The plate the gauge is mounted to is a prototype 3D printing I'm working on.

Next steps are to drain my engine coolant and prepare to remove the OEM Intake manifold.

 

So I drained the coolant by opening the radiator drain plug and removing the radiator cap. Then I began disconnecting hoses and connectors from my throttle body. I was incorrectly told that my D16A6 throttle body wouldn’t fit the JRSC so that fitment was in question until I could remove it and confirm it works

My D16A6 throttle body

My OEM throttle body gasket on the JRSC showing it fits fine. I may cut a new gasket.

 

It took some effort to remove the intake manifold. I carefully removed all the hoses and connectors to the manifold. I broke the PCV so I had to order a replacement. Removing the IM wasn’t too bad. Removing the center nut was the hardest but using this combination, I was able to remove it without too much trouble in a few minutes. An electric ratchet helps save a lot of time in cramped

Removing the bracket for the IM required unbolting 4 12mm bolts from underneath with a variety of extensions.

Once the bracket bolts were removed it was just a matter of disconnecting this. the tab disconnected it fast.

Lots of space

Unclipping the injector wires require just lifting the two corners of the wire clips then it can be removed. Clips don’t need to be completely removed to unplug them.

With the IM out, it’s time to move the parts I will be reusing on to the JRSC and making it fit my engine bay. I’m fully expecting to be missing parts and needing to clearance my shock tower. I bought a pneumatic hammer to make the process easier.

 

Sorry for the lack of updates. My own JRSC install came to a halt while I finish other projects but I will be getting back to this soon!

 

hey take your time, it's not like there are 50 other JRSC projects goin on, we have nowhere else to go

 

I installed and removed the SC several times today checking for clearance and positioning. The alternator was pressing pretty hard against the bottom of the SC, so I decided to see if I could shorten the post after confirming that rotating it wasn’t really an easy option. I confirmed all hose locations and checked to see how much I need to modify my intake tubing. Pretty much the only gotcha was the return fuel line from my FPR. Since my OEM rail couldn’t be used the FPR was moved to the opposite side of the fuel rail meaning the hose was now too short. I decided to get a barbed Union to go from 5/16” to 1/4” id hose. Then I can reconnect the return fuel line.

before modifying alternator

trimming alternator post

Alternator post shortened

 

After much bashing with a torch, air hammer, and a new 4lb hammer, I finally got all the clearance I needed. A lot of paint was removed so I used my self etching primer and Touchup paint to clean up the area. I’m getting ready to put it all back together. I purchased a hose adapter fitting that will allow me to run a hose from the shortened intake tube to the valve cover. I figured its easier to drill a hole in the silicone extension tube and plumb that then trying to weld a new tube on it. I included a picture below.

 

Alternator and idler pulley locked down and plenty of clearance all around. I positioned the SC into place and no rubbing anywhere. It was a hassle bashing the engine bay for clearance, then removing the SC and putting it back but it feels good to finally be done lol. It was really hard trying to photograph it but checking from all sides there was no rubbing or chance of rubbing anywhere.

 

This is a drive by:

Edit: just crossed the 3k post mark with this lol.

 

Edit: just crossed the 3k post mark with this lol.

 

Hi everyone! Sorry for the lack of replies. The shop has been crazy busy all year. I recently upgraded my laser cutter so I’m producing gaskets faster and better than ever. I’m also making a set for K series JRSC. Just message me and thanks Admin!


** slo edit ** keep it in the proper forums or direct messages.

 

Good info!! Keep it up!!

 

My new Bypass Valve Actuator arrived today. I bought it from Track Dog Racing which sells parts for Miatas. Since I can’t find anyone selling JRSC parts for Honda’s anymore. I just looked for Gen 3 M45 Eaton parts.

 

Comparing the new part to the original, it appears my original was repaired unless they came with a metal hose barb, but otherwise it seems to be identical in every way. Holds vacuum perfectly unlike my original. This is where I bought it. I selected for the M45. The price was the best I could find and it was in stock although apparently my screenshot below shows I got the last one until July.

Supercharger Bypass Vacuum Actuator

Direct replacement for the stock supercharger bypass actuator unit. We have found that these units will fail after 1-2 years of use or around 30K miles.

trackdogracing.com

My new Bypass Valve Actuator arrived today. I bought it from Track Dog Racing which sells parts for Miatas. Since I can’t find anyone selling JRSC parts for Honda’s anymore. I just looked for Gen 3 M45 Eaton parts.

 

Found an old post from 2005 regarding the purpose of the coating on the rotors. Although its from a Miata forum, its from Magneson. He accidentally stripped the coating with throttle body cleaner.

Here's part of the post "Good News! I spoke with Kevin at Magnesun and described what I did and that the rotors coating was stripped away from the throttle body cleaner. He told me that the main purpose of the coating was protection from moisture. He said that while the coating does provide a slightly better seal; therby better efficiency, it is so slight that he doubts anyone could notice. He also said that over time, most superchargers will get hot and that some of the teflon will peel off. Apparently alot of rebuilds come in with this situation. He said he would be happy to rebuild it for $550 but he wouldn't bother and to reinstall it and there won't be any problems. I expressed concern about the remaining coating flaking off and getting into the intake. He then said that this is only a concern if there is an intercooler which may get clogged, otherwise, not a biggie. So in a nutshell, it ain't smart to spray anything into the supercharger, but provided it's cleaned out well afterwards, it isn't going to ruin the supercharger."

Original Post:

MX-5 Miata Forum - View Single Post - Just did a very bad thing to my JRSC -HELP!

This is a discussion forum for Mazda MX-5 Miata owners and enthusiasts. For more info, see http://www.miata.net/

forum.miata.net

Came from this Thread:

Just did a very bad thing to my JRSC -HELP! - MX-5 Miata Forum

Just did a very bad thing to my JRSC -HELP! Supercharging

forum.miata.net

Here's another related post on how much oil to use in that same thread because the OP said it was smoking after he started the car. The OP used almost 8oz of Supercharger Oil but the actual amount is apparently a lot less.
"Yes, you can overfill it (and you did). You should have most of that second bottle left over, in fact.
On many other applications, the SC is mounted to the car with the oil fill/drain in the up and level position. You suction the old out and then you fill to the bottom of the fill/drain plug shaft.
Dunno the side effects of too much oil in the SC, though. There will be a little more effort needed to rotate those gears through the lube and less splash lubrication. You might find a small weep through the nose seals or you might be just fine."

 

Very cool.

 

Looks good.