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RT4WD JRSC EF sedan

26K views 128 replies 24 participants last post by  EFB055 
#1 ·
Just wanted to share some pics of my EF.

Got it started for the first time in a few years last weekend, pulled it out and gave it a wash... Now i'm pumped to get it tuned and back on the road.









Not really sure what power to expect yet, but my goal is to crack into the 13's on the 1/4.:fingersx:
 
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#2 ·
Good god that looks good.

I really miss my 90 4door.

I may just eventually import a rt4wd civic sedan at some point.

Converting is just a pain
 
#4 ·
For sure, and TBH if you're going through the effort of doing a 4wd conversion, i'd wonder if it wouldn't be worth using a better 4wd system (EVO engine/running gear for example).

I've got a spare diff on its way from japan at the mo, and an LSD i bought a little while back to install. Hoping to convert to rwd in the future for some fun on the wet skid pan. I took it a couple of years back, and you would really have to throw it into a corner, drop the clutch aggressively and floor it to maintain any semblance of a drift.
 
#5 ·
What lip is that?

Also, is that the actual honda deck lid spoiler?
 
#6 ·
I found an original Honda deck lid spoiler at the wrecker, but i got it home and realised i didn't want to drill into my trunk lid (lol), so both the lips are fiberglass ebay lips.

The trunk lip arrived in terrible shape, it took a lot of work to get it to fit anywhere near OEM. Not sure if that was just an unlucky one off, or if they're all like that.

I'd like to get a front lip out of urethane, i can't imagine a fiberglass lip will last long... But i haven't found one yet.
 
#12 ·
So i went for a spirited drive last weekend and my IAT's topped 55ºC / 130ºF which is still kinda high. most of the time it kind of hovered around 45ºC / 113ºF. I know there's still a lot of air in my heat exchanger system because its almost impossible to bleed without a reservoir i've since learnt. So i need to make one. Also my heat exchanger fan isn't connected at the moment while i try and figure out why my Hondata isn't producing a signal on the AUX wire. I do have a dyno graph at home, i'll upload it when i remember.

Thats really clean, i like the glossy baby blue paint. Makes me miss my crx.
It does kinda look baby blue in those pics hey! The colour is 'suzuka grey' an Audi colour, it seems a lot whiter in person and when photographed with a flash:


Here's a couple more pics from last weekend:







 
#13 ·
Those IATs sound good. What were the ambient temps like outside?

I need to make a reservoir as well. I have a 3/4” tee with a screw on cap at the highest point in my system but I’m not sure that there aren’t air pockets left in the end tanks
 
#14 ·
Wow, impressive car!! So I must ask, where did you source that carbon fiber upper timing cover?? As a fellow ZC and EF guy, the upper cover looks amazing. And I also really like the A8 valve cover.

Interested to see where you got it or if whoever made it will/can make more.

Sweet ride
 
#15 ·
Cheers,

I actually bought it off a member selling it here on D-series.org. I believe it was a limited run item produced a few years ago by ten by ten carbon:

https://www.tenbytencustomcarbon.com/

Those IATs sound good. What were the ambient temps like outside?

I need to make a reservoir as well. I have a 3/4” tee with a screw on cap at the highest point in my system but I’m not sure that there aren’t air pockets left in the end tanks

Ambient was around 25ºC / 77ºF. Yeah i've got a similar 3/4" T setup, but it's a bitch to bleed. If i try to bleed with the pump on, the velocity of the water prevents the bubbles from stopping where the T is, if i try to bleed without it then the air stays trapped in the manifold and in side tanks of the heat exchanger.
 
#16 ·
Here's my dyno sheet from my run in tune. Still waiting on the datalog to see what my IAT's were like, but seeing as the water pump wasn't working i can't imagine they would be great. Hoping for closer to 180 once the motor's run in, but i'm not holding my breath.
 

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#18 ·
I've had the car for 11 years, but it's seen a few transformations in that time haha. The latest iteration took about 5 years. When i first got it:



Decided to paint it brown:



And i got a black 35XT LE interior one day, so started pulling my factory light grey interior out and realised there was a bit of rust in the floor. So i stripped the interior to get that repaired:





... and walked into a wreckers to get the panels i needed to repair it and found an EF9 front end sitting in there (which i got for $50!). From there it snowballed into what you see today.





 
#19 ·
Stock cams?

It’s interesting to see how your boost builds compared to mine. With a Y8 crank (6.5” I believe) and a 3.2” supercharger pulley, I see my peak boost of about 7.6 PSI at around 4600 RPM and it drops to about 6.2 PSI at 7200 RPM.

What is your exhaust setup beyond that headed?
 
#20 · (Edited)
Bisimoto cams (bought before i knew any better) and B18 valves (increase in diameter and extra length to correct the rocker geometry). The power seems to keep carrying quite high as you can see itd probably make a little more power if the cutout was 500rpm - 750rpm higher

The exhaust is just 2.5", no cat, a resonator midway and a muffler at the back. It's still loud AF though. Thinking about redoing it.
 
#28 ·
Cheers!

Some D'ers might find this interesting, i'm in the process of doing an s2k cluster swap, but i've added a couple of mods so to it to better suit my build. First off was to lower the redline to be more suitable. Decided on 7500rpm:

Pulled apart:



This is the backing plate that diffuses the light:



Back together:





Second was to add a boost light, which i have in my current cluster which turns on when the manifold hits positive pressure. Modified the icon plate:




I glued a laser etched piece of acrylic to the back of it, and you can see i used a green indicator diffuser to colour the light green:



Lit up:



back together:



Has anyone put an s2k cluster into an EF with a D series before? I'm going to use an EK VSS, but i don't have much information on it.
 
#30 ·
I would make a small heatshield for the rear upper diff bushing (if that is indeed what that is bolted there)

Something very simple like a rectangular sheet of aluminum or steel notched and slipped under one of the bolts as an anchor should be fine.



I like the tucked exhaust! Lots off clearance is always a good thing!!
 
#34 ·
Couple of updates, got my exhaust wired up so the VAREX is working now. Makes a huge difference. Here's a pic of the button installed (pay no attenion to my fkd climate control haha):



Here's a good pic of how high the exhaust is tucked now, so much better than before:



And finally got my new wheels and tyres on:





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