Hi, I'm from The Netherlands actively looking for a second hand JRSC which fit on a Honda D17A2 engine 1668 cc SOHC V-TEC 16 V placed on the Stream model from the year 2001 may be you have the possibility to tell me where I should search for it and than I can order the gaskets at your shop?

 

Hi everyone! Sorry for the lack of replies. The shop has been crazy busy all year. I recently upgraded my laser cutter so I’m producing gaskets faster and better than ever. I’m also making a set for K series JRSC. Just message me and thanks Admin!


** slo edit ** keep it in the proper forums or direct messages.

 

I got gaskets cut! Message me if you want a set. $20 shipped priority mail anywhere in the USA. I just realized I forgot a third gasket. Price is same, I just need to update this post.

 

 

I’m finally back to tuning my CRX. I’ve stocked up on Wideband sensors as they tend to produce errors after a few months. I know once I change it out, I need to get the tuning taken care of asap. So I’ve been data logging with Tuner Express. I’m finding it difficult to transition from Turbo Edit with ECU Tuner. Doing a map trace is easy in Turbo Edit but I can’t seem to figure out how to do it with Tuner Express.

 

Fortunately d-serious blessed me with some extra gaskets when he was doing a production run. If you can’t figure anything else out, I can scan the gaskets with a ruler and maybe you can extrapolate the correct dimensions.

 

Hello Paterico . . .
I saw your post from Jan 31 2013 about: Brake booster pushrod adjustment without tool?
I've got same issue today. Did you find a solution (?) Glad to pay for your time.
Thanks, Malcolm.

 

Hi Richard,

Is it still possible for you to make some Gaskets?

Thanks

 

Hi Richard,

Is it still possible for you to make some Gaskets?

Thanks

Sure!! Pm me your address. I’m out of the shop this week but when I get back I can cut some.

 

Wow, this thread brings up so many memories. I could have saved you a hell of a lot of time and effort but I stopped frequenting this site several years ago.

Im still here rocking my W2A intercooled JRSC setup in my CRX. Lots of custom parts involved.

i sold my spare D16 JRSC kit years ago on eBay for roughly $1200. Wish I would have taken the time to get a little more for it. Haven’t seen such a complete setup for sale in many many years.

Anyway, glad to see that there’s still some interest in this setup. Most people have long abandoned it and gone to turbo

Here are my dyno graphs. W2A intercooled JRSC D16A6. All internals, endyn head, yada yada yada. Mustang dyno. The AFRs weren’t completely dialed in at that point but now they are.

Yeah, I would have loved to see bigger numbers but the torque curve is great and the quaife LSD makes it a ton of fun to drive in a 2100lb CRX.

tune it leaner…somewhere in the 13’s and perhaps the 12’s at peak RPMs. You’ll make more power and if you’ve built a good det can and tuned the ignition tables correctly, there won’t be any issues.

 

I’m so glad you chimed in!!! Yes it was a long road. My car is running great and I’m very happy. I got my AFRs decent but still refining my ignition timing via street tuning. It’s so great to hear you are still running the same setup! I read all your threads and posts over the years until around 2015 or so. Anyways!! Welcome back!!

Richard

Wow, this thread brings up so many memories. I could have saved you a hell of a lot of time and effort but I stopped frequenting this site several years ago.

Im still here rocking my W2A intercooled JRSC setup in my CRX. Lots of custom parts involved.

i sold my spare D16 JRSC kit years ago on eBay for roughly $1200. Wish I would have taken the time to get a little more for it. Haven’t seen such a complete setup for sale in many many years.

Anyway, glad to see that there’s still some interest in this setup. Most people have long abandoned it and gone to turbo

 

This is a drive by:

Edit: just crossed the 3k post mark with this lol.

 

Edit: just crossed the 3k post mark with this lol.

 

Tuning will be commencing shortly! I’ve spent the last few weeks getting my tuning setup working. That meant replacing a burnt out Wideband O2 sensor and calibrating it again, ensuring the yellow wire from my Innovate MTX-L was connected to my C16 wire on the ECU. It also meant making sure I can properly run TurboEdit and ECU Control and Extra Tables. I’m using an RCA Windows tablet I bought off Amazon back in 2016. It took quite a bit of effort to get it working as I’m running Windows 10 and the apps don’t install without some manual work. All the info to make them work is still freely available here on D Series and PGMFI.

 

Did some street tuning and my car is running well. I wouldn’t say I’m finished but it sounds great and I’m still learning about my car. I’m kinda tired of my Wideband sensors that keep dying but otherwise so far so good!

I posted a video clip of some drive bys on TikTok

TikTok - Make Your Day

I also posted it to my Vimeo account

 

I’ve been researching non stop about the next steps with my JRSC install and that’s getting the ECU tuned properly. Today I installed a switch that lets me switch between my stock O2 sensor and my AFR output. This was just a more elegant way to connect and disconnect wires IMO during tuning.

 

I am now hard at work learning to tune my ECU. My Wideband sensor has been giving me fits so I have a new one. I also need to wire the AFR into my O2 sensor on the ECU. Not a big deal but something I need to do when I have time. I’m staying OBD0, so Turbo Edit is my preferred option. Lots of great videos and references available after all these years. Fortunately I bought all the hardware for data logging already. I’m using a Windows tablet connected to my Moates Ostrich 2.0 and it’s been working fine for reading, editing, uploading the Roms. I may switch to a Sony Vaio laptop I got back in 2009 but the screen is super tiny for my old eyes lol.

 

My idle is normal now. Got a chance to drive it a good bit today. I’m hearing a tiny metallic clinking somewhere once in awhile. Maybe needs more clearance. Doesn’t happen all the time. Or maybe need to replace my engine mounts. Either way, it drives so nice!! Here is a little video on how the supercharger sounds. ShowCarGuy on TikTok

 

How about turning in this screw?

In/tighten closes the IAC bleed air passage a bit, out/loosen opens the passage allowing more air in.

This screw may be behind a cap on your TB, but it is there.

 

Thanks! That’s the first adjustment I tried but it didn’t help. I have it all the way in right now.

But the good news is that I’ve got Boost Now. I’m probably going to get an analog Autometer gauge as I’m not sure I like the digital one I’ve got right now. I was able to see around 5psi of boost. There could be more but I was only at around 4000rpm as I’m still checking things out. But the whine is there, the difference in power is night and day. I’ve got a little bit of belt squeal as well. I also need to add higher octane fuel to my tank. But for now, she runs great!

 

Thanks that wasn’t my problem unfortunately but I did find another major error lol. I noticed my battery light was on. That usually means a problem with the alternator. My first thought was I messed it up modifying it for clearance for the SC. I decided to take a closer look and then I realized I routed my belts wrong! In such a way the alternator wasn’t even spinning lol. I discovered that as I was wanting to check the tension of the SC belt and it was maxed out. So once I got the belt corrected and tensioned, I’m finally reading boost! Woohoo. And of course my battery light is out so the alternator is working again. The vacuum leak is probably still there somewhere but I’m gonna take it out for another test drive to see.

 

no.

 

adjust the throttle stop?

 

Is that the hidden (by wax) screw on the throttle body? It’s at the most closed setting aka the lowest rpm. I’m sure it’s a leak somewhere.

 

I’ve got a vacuum leak somewhere. I used a smoke machine today and found 2 really simple leaks due to some hoses. After letting the machine run for several minutes with no more leaks I, I took it out for a test drive and there is definitely power being made and the whine is audible. But my idle is still too high at around 1200 rpm so I still have a leak somewhere. But I’m happy that progress is being made!

 

Today I refilled the coolant and found a small leak, one of the hoses wasn’t on securely. Also my idle was bouncing which I traced to a vacuum leak on my injectors. One of the sealing rings on the injectors wasn’t seated properly. The problem was with the oem studs I used to hold the fuel rail in place. I removed the insulators and changed the rail studs and was able to tighten the rail down much further eliminating the vacuum leak. Tomorrow I will continue looking for vacuum leaks. After fixing the injector seal my idle was almost normal. The problem I’m facing now is whether I’m making any boost as I couldn’t hear the SC when I gave it some gas.

 

I have a complete full Jackson racing supercharger set up installed on my 95 civic. It was on the car when I purchased it.. iv been debating pulling it all off and putting it back to a stock manifold. anyone have any ideas wha its worth?

 

Well D Series JRSC are pretty rare now. When I bought mine a bunch were coming up for sale and they were priced $1200-$2000. Depending on how complete your kit is, that’s probably the range.

Well great news everyone! I got my car back together today and it runs beautifully after I modified the tune for the 450cc injectors. My first start before changing it was very rough which I expected. It was more to test clearances. Second start was after using Turbo Edit 3.2.2 to modify the injectors. Tomorrow I’m going to refill all the coolant I drained out and hopefully idle will be normal. Since I last posted, I also added the fitting for the intake hose for the valve cover. I figured tapping the intake hose was easiest. Up next will be coolant refill, swap to colder spark plugs, and start tuning.

I had some issues with my Windows tablet connecting to the Ostrich. First thing to do was confirm what Com port my USB was set to. I found out it was Com 3 under the Windows Devices. I found out I needed to make the settings in the Turbo Edit Options under RTP and close the app after making the changes. Then open it again for the changes to take effect. Then I attempted to connect to the emulator. After several tries it worked.

 

nice, before this thread i never knew clearancing was required

 

I had read so many conflicting stories that some needed it or didn’t, some needed only a little, some needed a lot lol. And of course the only way to find out is bolt it together and see what happens except it’s kinda of a PIA to repeat the process over and over.

 

Alternator and idler pulley locked down and plenty of clearance all around. I positioned the SC into place and no rubbing anywhere. It was a hassle bashing the engine bay for clearance, then removing the SC and putting it back but it feels good to finally be done lol. It was really hard trying to photograph it but checking from all sides there was no rubbing or chance of rubbing anywhere.

 

I just found out about a way to eliminate belt slip. Stiegemeyer provides a service of applying a Constrictor Grip to your pulley. Apparently you send them the pulley, it gets machined and coated.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?st...9NYR5cc7MkR5HMtDiBK32fz2oFfpeM5Ynt6zEckbK5El&id=170248426325700&mibextid=qC1gEa

 

After much bashing with a torch, air hammer, and a new 4lb hammer, I finally got all the clearance I needed. A lot of paint was removed so I used my self etching primer and Touchup paint to clean up the area. I’m getting ready to put it all back together. I purchased a hose adapter fitting that will allow me to run a hose from the shortened intake tube to the valve cover. I figured its easier to drill a hole in the silicone extension tube and plumb that then trying to weld a new tube on it. I included a picture below.

 

Look what I found at Jon Bond Performance. JRSC 3.8” 4 rib pulleys. They got a bunch and restored them.

Jackson Racing 3.8″, 4 rib, keyway pulley, 1″ offset – Jon Bond Performance LLC

 

I’m now using a torch to heat the metal and bashing with the air hammer and also a large hammer. It’s almost there. It’s a painstakingly slow process.

Clearance for the pulley is great

clearance on all sides for the pulley is great

I fear the belt will still slightly rub again the frame so I need to bash it in more.