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HOW TO REALLY TORQUE ARP HEAD STUDS!!! Straight from ARP

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194K views 111 replies 74 participants last post by  Michael99  
#1 ·
Okay, so this is to give people CORRECT 100% information straight from arp.

This information is from Al at arp, older guys, knows his stuff.

He says for head studs:
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.

I broke mine doing it in 10lbs increments. 12-22-32-42-54-68

he said you do not get accurate torque readings doing it this way, and if the studs will take it you can torque them down that way and not have the same clamping force as a straight 5-60 ft lbs straight torque in one step.

Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.

spread the word
 
#4 · (Edited)
No big relevation here as it seems to be in line with the written directions...

Image


And so the recommended sequence from Honda is as follows (note the 4th step is a repeat of step 3). So I would interprete this as 3 steps to 60ft-lbs (20-40-60) and then retorque the middle 2 bolts at 60 one last time.

Image
 
#7 ·
i personaly do it in 5lb inriements. starting at 45-50 all the way to 70.
just a personal prefference
 
#15 ·
i will call and ask al today, and post back, as to try to provide more information in the thread directly from them..not personal opinions.
 
#14 · (Edited)
the fact is..some of you guys are saying personal preference,but to use personal preference is against what arp says to do. And i also have a helms manual and have done it the way that it reccomends, however these are for ARP studs, not stock honda bolts as it says do not use the stock torque specification. you dont torque them the same as the instructions say for head bolts from honda(in steps, however use the same sequence obviosuly). Thats why i made this post. Notice how no where does it say on the arp sheet that sql civic posted to torque them in steps?

Please do not take my word for it, call ARP they are the ones who make the studs, not honda.

800.826.3045

and use the specified torque value they give you. Going over that rating is not needed, and even going 5-10ft lbs over, is like a 5-15 percent increase in the tensile strength they were tested to, so your in fact testing the limits of the yeild strength of the bolts. Note how it says thats 60 ft lbs is 75% of their yeild strength, that means 80 ft lbs is 100% of their yield, i 68 ft lbs is 85% of their yeild, which is 10% over their recommendation. and so on.
 
#20 ·
The fact is that ARP are experts in bolt manufacturing not engine assembly. They make fasteners for many, many automotive and industrial applications. I think the ARP instructions are not wrong regarding the steps but were just omitted. Torqueing down a head (or loosening them for that matter) in one step is likely to cause warping - I don't care whose bolts or studs are used.

Other than that, I agree that exceeding the recommended torque or making up your own personal torque step sequence without any real metallurgical or mechanical basis just makes no sense.
 
#21 ·
i agree sql civic.

however he said they tested this on numerous boosted applications, as well as na application..he mentioned ford focus alot, i dont know why lol.

When i do it..im going to do 30-60. I doubt it will warp this way. there is no heat involved, and think about the actual distance the head would travel from all being torque down from 30 ft lbs to then 60 ft lbs. it would barely move, so how could it warp.

i did not get to call them today about reusing them sorry.
 
#22 ·
40ft pounds then 80ft pounds for me... no headlift anytime soon for me... and its been fine thru 2 seasons
 
#25 ·
Clamping force is proportional to torque, and the load is a function of the stress in the stud and its loaded diameter. Since the studs are designed to operate at 75% of their yield strength when torqued to spec, they will theoretically yield at 80 ft-lbs (and then they are paperweights). Friction can get tricky, and the torque at which they'll yield is probably a little higher in reality, but that's still cutting it close. A little more clamping force might be necessary for highly boosted engines, but 80 ft-lbs seems pretty excessive to me.
 
#38 · (Edited)
correct and agree

for educational purposes....

Bolt Preload Calculation

Pi = T/(K D)

Pi = bolt preload.
T = bolt installation torque.
K = torque coefficient.
D = bolt nominal shank diameter.
there are calculators online if you don't want to actually do the math for yourself :lol:

<-like this guy

Nobody use a stretch gauge ??
wrong tool. there is a tool you can use to figure out the amount of stretch.

edit: i used the honda tq steps with a final tq recommended by arp. first two steps tq numbers were that of honda, last one that of arp. three steps total. tq checked after 10 heat cycles.
 
#31 ·
i think he means, does anyone use a stretch gauge , instead of just a torque wrench.
 
#35 ·
Since we are talking about ARPs here I want to get some questions answered. First is that the second time I removed the studs from the block they bent a little while I did that 2 bolt skeem to remove the stud. And second question is that I broke 1 stud wile doing that 10 20 30 40 50 60 shit. Where can I get 1 replacement stud? Thanks