My new 13:1 Y8's headwork effective Jan, 09 - currently running, tuning, and loving it.

EXHAUST (with offset "raised roof" gasket):

INTAKE , COMBUSTION CHAMBER + BOWL-to-PORT, and a little TURBULENCE:

* Intake Finished with 40grit on port and 80 grit on bowls
* Exhaust Finished with 80 grit
* All floors (and their carbon dirt LOL) left untouched ; Intake portfloor original casting rough finish still intact.

 

Teaser ads?.. (LOL! j/k!)

My new 13:1 Y8's headwork effective Jan, 09 - currently running, tuning, and loving it.
* Intake Finished with 40grit on port and 80 grit on bowls
* Exhaust Finished with 80 grit
* All floors (and their carbon dirt LOL) left untouched ; Intake portfloor original casting rough finish still intact.

Nice. :bigok:

 

I'll get some pictures up once mine is done, lookin good!

 

Can we see some pics of the tools you use to port and polish your heads ?

 

Thanks sql.
Excellent work on yours too!
Actually there's too little love for the Y8 head. All the ported head threads are mostly Z6and A6. Understandably they are the top choice for almost everyone as they are the real performers. That's a given.

It's the challenge to make the Y8 breathe as good as a well-ported Z6 that gets me going.
I'm trying to see what else can be found from these heads. This is the second one I've done porting on. This time I've done LOTS of reshaping inside, with the intention of keeping the swirl but with high rpm Z6 manners.

I have a P08 head lying around anytime I want to touch it but it's not the time for that now.

So far this head is really breathing much better. A cam bigger than my crower2 would definitely be right for it.

 

damn bro thats looks sick

 

adds turbulance to assist the fuel to stay in suspension with the air flow

 

atomization

 

mine is pictured in my thread..... heads that are being used for boosting dont really need any more turbulance.. too much turbulance is acually bad.. a rather smoother airflow is best. it might be alright for N/A set-ups, but not for boosted set-ups.

 

:wacko: that head of the op's looks amazing for a DIY P&P job

 

This was my P&P on my previous Y8 head.
It had a lot of "bling" in it.
But I don't do bling anymore lol!

INTAKE:

EXHAUST:

 

HEAD MILL FINISH:

 

holy fuck where ya been doc, good to see you on time to school the noobs. :td:

 

my info is gone until all the ads are.

 

Here's a write-up a did a few years ago.

This is my how to on removing the casting mark edges on the intake and exhaust ports. It'll help the flow some but a good valve job will help you feel the real benifits from this. N/E how this is how I do it. If n/e one has some additional info to add feel free to.

Here's what you'll need to do this:

Intake Manifold Gasket
Magic Marker (any color that stands out)
Dremel or similar tool for grinding
Carbide Bit ( I just use the coarse sanding drums)


Step 1: Clean off the intake and exhaust flange surface on the cylinder head.

Step 2: Install gasket onto studs

Step 3: Once the gasket is secured in place take the marker and trace where there is still metal showing within the ports.

Step 4: Once you have marked the ports, it should look something like this.

Step 5: Take your Dremel or whatever tool you are using and start removing the material inside the port until you have ground away the material that was marked.

Here is what it should look like once you are done. I only had enough sanding drums for 3 ports so I'll post up the completed intake side once I am done. After my friend drops off the intake plenum I'll also add how to port match the IM to the head and the TB to the IM. It's basically the same as this but there are a few differences.

I hope this helps. If ya'll have any questions or comments feel free to chime in. This covers most of it but to see the full gains, I recommend getting a valve job and oversized valves. You also should not go too crazy w/ the porting otherwise the intake charge will lose velocity.

The finished intake ports:

dude nice right up

 

my info is gone until all the ads are.

 

not really a writeup, but anyway how did you port the head with the valve still in there? also ive learned, that your not suppose to port match the intake manifold to the head.

 

my info is gone until all the ads are.

 

I only port matched the intake and exhaust w/ the valves in. Later on I bought a spring compressor and removed the valves so I could finish the rest. As for port matching to the head, you are correct about not bringing them to the exact same diameter. What I do is open them up slightly and remove restrictions while ensuring that the intake runners diameter is still smaller than the port.

yeah, ive learned for the intake manifold to not really take any material if any off.. i guess if its being used for a diff application it could be different, but boost wise, a smaller exit from a port, will increase airflow... its like taking an air compressor with a bigger hole, and not that hard of an air stream comes out... but when there is a tighter fitting (hole) the air comes out sooo much faster..

but for the exhaust its the total oposite... on the head side (ports) you want to enlarge the inner port, but the exit before the gasses come out the head (right before the mating surface on the head) you really dont want to touch because again, that would help with turbo spool to have the gasses come out a smaller hole which means a faster flow..

hard to explain


but your ports do look nice

 

Nice writeup, but fuzzy pics FTL.

 

Great info in this thread everyone is taking there hand in some DIY I love it wish I had to tools to do it. Now where the hell is Nate at with his submission

 

I got WAY to many pics to post up so ill just link to my thread
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=101955

leave any qeustions/comments here or there doesn't matter

 

 

well like the beav said if you have a good header the exhaust side could apply to N/A and boost.

 

my info is gone until all the ads are.

 

I have it where if the intake runner was a garden hose, the intake port would be a 1.25 pipe so as the air is coming out of the hose, it would in effect be a step down into the cylinder port thus no obstructions to hinder flow. Like this. (excuse my shitty paint drawing skills)

Ya, I try to follow those principals when porting although it's far from an exact science without the use of a flow bench. I mostly clean up the ports and try to add a little taper on them that I feel will help increase the velocity since the air is going from a larger area in the port to a smaller area as it enters the combustion chamber.

yeah man, im still undecided if i want to get mine flow benched or not.. lol just eye balling it... but shit, for a diy shits good enough and im sure itl flow well... maybe using a mic would help with finding out how even the ports are

 

dang doc . . . you are more patient than I am

all that polish on the exhaust will be gone in the first 5 minutes you have that motor running.

the heads look great, especially for the DIY jobs!

 

IMO, and in the opinion of people who are a lot more experienced than ALL of us put together you NEVER portmatch. EVER. For any application, a step will produce more acceleration for the same power. A portmatched intake may make more power at WOT, however, unless you are only going to be at WOT all the time, having anti-reversion steps produces an engine that will accellerate faster and also recover from shifts faster, meaning you will go faster. Portmatching prevents good resonant tuning. It allows all the pulses that form from the intake valve closing so bounce right out into the intake tubing. It also increases flow in both directions. It is better, IMO, to take a small hit (if any) on forward flow in order to prevent the air that had energy spent on sucking it in to get forced back out into the intake tube. If you design your induction system as a whole, you can actually develop up to 1-2PSI in a naturally aspirated intake manifold. You will NEVER have that happen in a partmatched setup.

This is much the same in a boosted set up. You want to retain as much energy in the intake manifold so that you don't have to overcome it as the pulses move back towards the compressor, especially after a shift (even with a BOV in the mix).

These are just my opinions, but if you take the time to look up a lot of this stuff, you will find evidence to support it. So, if you disagree with me, show me. I'd love to be wrong. That will make all our lives better. =)

 

imho; dont port match the exhaust side.

to help prevent cylinder/exhaust gas cross contamination the exhaust head ports should be smaller than the exhaust manifold. ideally you want the floor of the manifold and head to be mostly aligned, and the roof of the manifold/ports to have a larger offset.

taken from forced induction performance tuning, A. Graham Bell.

 

imho; dont port match the exhaust side.

to help prevent cylinder/exhaust gas cross contamination the exhaust head ports should be smaller than the exhaust manifold. ideally you want the floor of the manifold and head to be mostly aligned, and the roof of the manifold/ports to have a larger offset.

taken from forced induction performance tuning, A. Graham Bell.

thats what i said... intake ports= gasket match exhaust ports= dont gasket match turbo manifold= gasket match intake manifold= do not gasket match...

velosity into the head would be higher.... and velosity out of the head would be higher... it will work well espcially with a larger size turbo

 

my info is gone until all the ads are.