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here are some pics from a y8 head i was working on. head is junk i didnt notice it was ran without oil until after i put some work in. lol

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this was once i was happy with the shape, about to start finishing it with the desired texture...

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wow...some of the work you guys do is amazing!!

I'm really hoping to try my hand at this, any words of wisdom or advice for a new comer looking to try his first P&P?

and also note, for a boost application not N/A.
 
go slow. steady hand. for polishing mini sanding flaps and adbrasive buffs are your friend. will save alot of work by hand.

and check if you unsure before you do some thing.... we are here to help if you unsure...

check out the DIY porting on onecamonly.com as well. there are helpful tips there
 
Danz, did you notice the shallow bowls of the Y8?
..i mean - compared to a Z6... how did you approach this? Did you deepen them?

I honestly tried to avoid killing something so I just cleaned mine, not much reshaping was done there for me. But they are definitely shallow, I felt I couldn't alter them any way without the aid of a flow bench...

Did you have a lot of coreshift ridges on the bowl/seat areas of this Y8?
Mine had a LOT so ended up barely touching those areas. Taking those ridges out would've meant increasing seat CSA so i backed off on that too...
I applied devcon on the intake bowls' pre-seat ridges that had a bad step in the wrong direction coz i figured it was sure cause for bad reversion.

I degreased and prepped the areas real well though, applied carefully, and waited around 4 days of hardening time before I smoothed them out to blend off.

I still have stock seat CSA.

I like the way you approached your intake dividers! Very nice!
 
yes this head was in terrible shape, bad casting from the factory. the bowls were very shallow yes i noticed that while i was smoothing things out. haha. i thought about using devcon on the floor at the turn but never got around to going that far. i might with the NA build i have brewing.. i hope its quick!
 
Alright guys, here is my 1st attempt at a PnP. This is my z6 head. I did this last night. Any suggestions would be appreciated:

Intake finished to 60 grit. Very minimal port work, just runner/bowl shaping:

Exhaust side. I took a couple mm off each port to gasket-match. I removed material with a carbide bit and really opened up the runners. I shaped everything with 60 grit, smoothed with a 180 grit, then steel wool, then mother's aluminum polish. I'm pretty happy with the results:

I'd appreciate any and all feedback before I take this thing up to the machine shop for decking & cleaning.

edit: image hosting is acting up, no time to fix right now. i'll get to it later...
 
:bowdown: that is sick man... love it
+1 thanks bro

i actually am getting another z6 head to start on.

might think of selling this f22b1 head.... how much you think i can get?? any ideas?
 
Alright guys, here is my 1st attempt at a PnP. This is my z6 head. I did this last night. Any suggestions would be appreciated:

Intake finished to 60 grit. Very minimal port work, just runner/bowl shaping:

Exhaust side. I took a couple mm off each port to gasket-match. I removed material with a carbide bit and really opened up the runners. I shaped everything with 60 grit, smoothed with a 180 grit, then steel wool, then mother's aluminum polish. I'm pretty happy with the results:

I'd appreciate any and all feedback before I take this thing up to the machine shop for decking & cleaning.

edit: image hosting is acting up, no time to fix right now. i'll get to it later...


Just a quick tip.
The exit of your exhaust port only needs to be smaller than you exhaust manifold. Be very carful about removing material from the exhaust port exit side. You want to keep the convergent port design (look at a cross section cutout of a head). The port should start out large near the short turn radius and get smaller toward the exit. This helps the exhaust gases to speed up as they leave the head. It improves combustion chamber scavenging. If you open up the exhaust port exit you should try to do the same to the upper portion of the exhaust port, this will maintain the convergent design of the port. If you go turbo one day this will help your turbo spool faster also.
 
Most people are leaning more towards an anti-reversion stepping rather than port matching. Gasket matching is cool, I did it on my intake manifold hoping for less turbulence and then later had to open up the ports on the head even more at their inlets when I wanted anti-reversion.
 
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That's pretty neat, I'll definantly have to look into that.
 
got a video of the old f22b1 head. how it looks now. had my boss do a stage 3 port job on it. let me know what you think.

ok so i lied... i worked on it. lol
 
ohh yea the vid. lol..






PLEASE let me know what you think. its not done. (obviously)
 
The head I was gonna do this on has some damage because it partially dropped a valve. I think it's still usable, but I'll get pics up and I want some outside opinions.

the Valve seat is still good, but it grooved the inside a little.
 
The head I was gonna do this on has some damage because it partially dropped a valve. I think it's still usable, but I'll get pics up and I want some outside opinions.

the Valve seat is still good, but it grooved the inside a little.

even if its bad you might as well try and get some practice rounds in! shit thats wat i did.!

POST PICS!
 
WOW just took the whole night reading this thread. Amazing!
Just looking on to take a summer project and am looking to PnP my y8 head
any suggestions on areas to look out for. I have a air die grinder and a crappy no name dremmel tool, any suggestions on new materials to buy inorder to complete this?
Basically i have the gist of it where you want to create a
```__
---
(IM) (Head)
---__
Pattern between the throttle body and IM, the IM and head AND the Head and EM. You also want to keep a rough (60 grit) finish on the intake while smoothing out the inner walls for better flow. But a high polished finish for exhaust. (what tools for polishing ?)

But for some of the more intricate areas .. ie. bowls and valve seals.. i was wondering if i should even bother to deal with them due to my inexperience and it is my only head for the engine.



.. also when i take the head off would it be a good idea to replace the head gasket or use the old one ( same goes for the intake gasket ) .

Anything minor or major anyone would care to add would be magical .. im really looking forward to seeing the difference so i would like to do it right :p

btw this is my first post so comments would be even better !! thanks guys and congrats on the beautiful ports !
 
WOW just took the whole night reading this thread. Amazing!
Just looking on to take a summer project and am looking to PnP my y8 head
any suggestions on areas to look out for. I have a air die grinder and a crappy no name dremmel tool, any suggestions on new materials to buy inorder to complete this?
Basically i have the gist of it where you want to create a
```__
---
(IM) (Head)
---__
Pattern between the throttle body and IM, the IM and head AND the Head and EM. You also want to keep a rough (60 grit) finish on the intake while smoothing out the inner walls for better flow. But a high polished finish for exhaust. (what tools for polishing ?)

But for some of the more intricate areas .. ie. bowls and valve seals.. i was wondering if i should even bother to deal with them due to my inexperience and it is my only head for the engine.



.. also when i take the head off would it be a good idea to replace the head gasket or use the old one ( same goes for the intake gasket ) .

^YES! relpace it! dont even bother to worry about it. imo

Anything minor or major anyone would care to add would be magical .. im really looking forward to seeing the difference so i would like to do it right :p

^READ! try practicing on going little by little.... watch some vids on youtube. i have one on this thread and two on YT.

btw this is my first post so comments would be even better !! thanks guys and congrats on the beautiful ports !
ok. soo when i did my port work on the head... i noticed that i was more comforitable with the dremel, EVEN though it was a LOT slower than the carbide bit.. but if you look at my pics.. the intakes came out F'n SICK! if you feel comforitable i say, work the bowls and if you can (or you need to) work the inside of the seats so that the flow is not abstructed by any "lips" or protrusions from the seat/factory castings/ or the bowl..

take it slow and feel what you doing. a lot of what i went off of wasnt the "look" of the port. but you have to look at the way the air is flowin. you know the venturi effect. so you dont want to "open" up anywhere. you kinda just want a good smooth transition....

umm i wouldnt recomend porting to the gasket... its really the "killer" of some peoples first time ports, from what i seen.. to me thats more important than the bowls, but open it up too much, you loose velocity.. and thats a no-no.

take it slow, and good luck! if you have any ?'s just post a pic and wait for one of us to help!
 
The bole lips and protrusions around the seat in your style head are terrible. If you do decide to clean it up there, think smooth transition. It's easy to get carried away and end up port it out. The bole has steep angles to the seats in the port roof side of the port so you have to be careful not to kill your margin. Cartridge roles on the die grinder will help it go quicker than a tiny dremel.
I found larger diameter cartridge roles make it easier to retain the origional shape of the boles. As stated earlier try and keep off the short bend radius.
 
Some work I did a year back on my B7 head. Waiting to get it flow tested before I install it this summer.

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Nice work.
 
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