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1997 Civic Hatch D18Y8 M62 S/C
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm seeing several threads on guys porting their own heads. How about posting up a couple of pics if you've done one and briefly how you did it.

Here's my D16Y8 head. I mostly used a Dremel and did some by hand. The intake is ground to 60 grit while the exhaust I polished with 600 grit. When I went at it I tried to just smooth out the surfaces and remove the casting marks rather than alter the flow in any way.

Intake:



Exhaust:




Ready - go!
 

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My new 13:1 Y8's headwork effective Jan, 09 - currently running, tuning, and loving it.

EXHAUST (with offset "raised roof" gasket):






INTAKE , COMBUSTION CHAMBER + BOWL-to-PORT, and a little TURBULENCE:







* Intake Finished with 40grit on port and 80 grit on bowls
* Exhaust Finished with 80 grit
* All floors (and their carbon dirt LOL) left untouched ; Intake portfloor original casting rough finish still intact.
 

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97' Civic
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Can we see some pics of the tools you use to port and polish your heads ?
 

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Registered
1997 Civic Hatch D18Y8 M62 S/C
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2,664 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Teaser ads?.. (LOL! j/k!)

My new 13:1 Y8's headwork effective Jan, 09 - currently running, tuning, and loving it.
* Intake Finished with 40grit on port and 80 grit on bowls
* Exhaust Finished with 80 grit
* All floors (and their carbon dirt LOL) left untouched ; Intake portfloor original casting rough finish still intact.
Nice. :bigok:
 

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873 Posts
Thanks sql.
Excellent work on yours too!
Actually there's too little love for the Y8 head. All the ported head threads are mostly Z6and A6. Understandably they are the top choice for almost everyone as they are the real performers. That's a given.

It's the challenge to make the Y8 breathe as good as a well-ported Z6 that gets me going.
I'm trying to see what else can be found from these heads. This is the second one I've done porting on. This time I've done LOTS of reshaping inside, with the intention of keeping the swirl but with high rpm Z6 manners.

I have a P08 head lying around anytime I want to touch it but it's not the time for that now.

So far this head is really breathing much better. A cam bigger than my crower2 would definitely be right for it.
 

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I'm seeing several threads on guys porting their own heads. How about posting up a couple of pics if you've done one and briefly how you did it.

Here's my D16Y8 head. I mostly used a Dremel and did some by hand. The intake is ground to 60 grit while the exhaust I polished with 600 grit. When I went at it I tried to just smooth out the surfaces and remove the casting marks rather than alter the flow in any way.

Intake:



Exhaust:




Ready - go!
damn bro thats looks sick
 

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Registered
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617 Posts
Teaser ads?.. (LOL! j/k!)

My new 13:1 Y8's headwork effective Jan, 09 - currently running, tuning, and loving it.

EXHAUST (with offset "raised roof" gasket):






INTAKE , COMBUSTION CHAMBER + BOWL-to-PORT, and a little TURBULENCE:







* Intake Finished with 40grit on port and 80 grit on bowls
* Exhaust Finished with 80 grit
* All floors (and their carbon dirt LOL) left untouched ; Intake portfloor original casting rough finish still intact.
whats up with the dimples in the last picture?
 

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honda/firebird form.
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mine is pictured in my thread..... heads that are being used for boosting dont really need any more turbulance.. too much turbulance is acually bad.. a rather smoother airflow is best. it might be alright for N/A set-ups, but not for boosted set-ups.
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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holy fuck where ya been doc, good to see you on time to school the noobs. :td:
 

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FF Misfit
Accord
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my info is gone until all the ads are.
 

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Here's a write-up a did a few years ago.

This is my how to on removing the casting mark edges on the intake and exhaust ports. It'll help the flow some but a good valve job will help you feel the real benifits from this. N/E how this is how I do it. If n/e one has some additional info to add feel free to.

Here's what you'll need to do this:

Intake Manifold Gasket
Magic Marker (any color that stands out)
Dremel or similar tool for grinding
Carbide Bit ( I just use the coarse sanding drums)


Step 1: Clean off the intake and exhaust flange surface on the cylinder head.



Step 2: Install gasket onto studs



Step 3: Once the gasket is secured in place take the marker and trace where there is still metal showing within the ports.



Step 4: Once you have marked the ports, it should look something like this.



Step 5: Take your Dremel or whatever tool you are using and start removing the material inside the port until you have ground away the material that was marked.



Here is what it should look like once you are done. I only had enough sanding drums for 3 ports so I'll post up the completed intake side once I am done. After my friend drops off the intake plenum I'll also add how to port match the IM to the head and the TB to the IM. It's basically the same as this but there are a few differences.

I hope this helps. If ya'll have any questions or comments feel free to chime in. This covers most of it but to see the full gains, I recommend getting a valve job and oversized valves. You also should not go too crazy w/ the porting otherwise the intake charge will lose velocity.

The finished intake ports:

dude nice right up
 

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not really a writeup, but anyway how did you port the head with the valve still in there? also ive learned, that your not suppose to port match the intake manifold to the head.
 
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