I know of at least 4 different 18G garrett turbos.

find out which one you actually have

also, boost pressure does not equal power. you might make 160whp at 10 on a certain turbo and 180whp at 25psi on the same turbo.



you should focus more on knowing the exact parts you have. That will aid you in looking up said parts to get a much better idea of information

 

Get the compressor map for the turbo you have and go from there.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/112718-compressor-map-reading-dummies.html

 

Greddy lists a TD05SH-18G and a TD05H-18G. Im trying now to find the difference.

I'm having trouble finding compressor maps for either of them

 

I would run all the psi needed.

 

So I found this compressor map for an 18G

So if Im reading this right the turbo should make 413HP @ 14.7PSI?

So if Im looking for 200hp the turbo should make that at 285 CFM?

 

So if Im reading this right the turbo should make 413HP @ 14.7PSI?

lololololol

Read this. It should get you in the ball park on what you need to know. Oh and turbos don't make horsepower, they pump air. There are so many factors that go into the final number that is horsepower.

 

that 18G is basically useless for your goal. it will do 200hp yes, but it wants a bigger motor



nothing nothing nothing vtec, nothing nothing BOOOST

at least it will keep the motor alive by not boosting below 3k rpms

 

Im perfectly fine with it not making crazy power at first. I'm learning to tune with this setup so I am fine with it being conservative. I'm building a motor over the winter so I can use what I learn to do that one right

 

example ::

psi means nothing.

15psi from a t28 is not the same 15psi from a 6262

1) teach yourself how to read a compressor map
2) remember how to do math
3) do the maths and plot points on compressor maps
4) see what compressor map gives you the answers you need

http://turbocharged.com/catalog/compmaps/fig1.html

 

ok so clearly I may not have made the best choice on turbo size. What are some good articles to read up on to actually learn what I need to know about turbos?

I know it's a little late since I have already purchased the turbo so help me learn

 

you didn't read my post?

How to read a turbo compressor map

How To Read A Compressor Map - Turbo Magazine

Learn how to read a compressor map

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/plotting_data_on_compressor_map

Compressor Flow Maps and Calculations

Understanding Compressor Maps ? Sizing A Turbocharger



with spoon feeding, comes red dots

 

I dont want spoon fed I just want pointed in the right direction. Which yes you did in the previous post. I just keep getting conflicting information and it makes learning a bit difficult.

Everyone on here is saying that the turbo will be to big for a D-series yet it's a D-series kit so I don't get that. I have the dyno chart from the motor this turbo was on and it appears that it spools around 4200-4500 RPM.

I apologize for asking dumb questions but I respect all of you're opinions when it comes to weeding through all of the shit on the internet

 

it finally spools at 4500 or it starts to spool? you can always sell the stuff you have, or trade it for something that would work for you.



get out your pen, paper, and calculator. see you in a few days

 

I'm new to this stuff as well and find it just as complicated. Even the top car manufacturers end up doing some of the development empirically.

My engineering background says that:-

a) for a given gas density, the turbo will spool and spin according to the feed gas pressure, flow rate and velocity ... less the effect of the resistance of the system, including the output stages.

b) for a given intake air density, the turbo will deliver air pressure, flow rate and velocity (less the effect etc) varying with the spin speed ... if the intake system can provide enough air in the first place

c) for a given turbo output, possibly measured in volume per time, the engine will theoretically deliver a set power output provided that it has sufficient fuel at the right time and is not hampered by mechanical components that aren't up to the stresses

In other words, your question cannot be answered without knowing all the variables!

In your situation, I would have been tempted to start the thread with the question "Has anyone fitted a Garrett 18g to a D16Z6?"

 

In your situation, I would have been tempted to start the thread with the question "Has anyone fitted a Garrett 18g to a D16Z6?"

A wiser choice would have been to search google for that query and read the years of experiences already posted across the web instead of waiting for someone else to show you the answer.

But as is proven time and time again, that kind of initiative and critical thinking (lol) isn't something people nowadays seem to be capable of.

 

Didnt read all the comments but i know what they are saying.

But what i have to say is this.
Buy a small spring and a boost controller.
Hit the dyno and up the boost until you get your power goal.

Therr is not psi to hp chart.
Different tuners will run different AFR. That alone will change power output.
Not to mention timing, IC size and routing, exhaust, heat soak and condition of the motor and turbo.

 

Knowledge attained. Great success.

 

Get yourself an IHI turbo from a turbo mustang. You'll hit 200hp, no doubt.

 

But on another topic, how many donuts do I have to eat to grow to 6 feet tall?

 

don't know if donuts alone will get you there ...



poor op:stuart:

 

ok I get it. I'll do more research before I post again

 

Hooray!

 

Wait, someone said "at least itll keep the motor alive by not boosting under 3k" or something to that extent, my research has been towards the smallest turbos that will flow enough to make 175-185 w low lag, eg full boost at or near 3k. Only low psi from a small cfm turbo though.

Is this something else i should be looking into? Because in all the discussions ive read through concerning high compression, low boost, small snail setups, no one mentions this or examines reliability/longetivity vs when boost comes on.

 

Reread my post.
Then reread slo
then reread my post again.

 

Its because most serious people dont try boosting on stock parts.


shrapnel has a habit of destroying turbos

and low rpm boost is a great way to create that

 

Sorry xile i dont follow after rereading. Low rpm boost and tip in detonation are supercharger problems and im fairly confident in a tuners ability to combat those issues. Tip in instant boost detonation corrective actions were effective on other platforms years ago.

Am i correct in reading detonation is the issue?

This is adding fuel to the fire at the leave it n/a camp in my mind.

 

your original question was
"So how do I estimate how much HP the turbo will produce per psi "

My slo answer was to read the compresor map and est what cfm your motor needs and what cfm the turbo outputs at X psi and calc est hp.

My answer was that its hard to do that because each tuner might tune it a different way and you might come up over or short. Plus dynos reading can be off etc...

And it was best to get a boost controller, hit the dyno and up the boost until you get to where you want.

you next question was about
when will the turbo spool and if the turbo you have was to big for your motor.

As slo pointed out, if you read the compressor map it will let you know all you need.

Now if you go with a smaller turbo it will spool faster but top end will drop off.
Bigger turbo will spool later but more power in the top end.

That now becomes about picking what turbo you want. which comes down to your needs and reading a map to find a turbo that will meet thos goals

 

low rpm boost is not any sort of issue with any of the supercharger kits available to our motors.

infact, a 400whp custom supercharger kit is more likely to last longer on a stock motor than a 160-200whp turbo build.



linear, controlled power is always more dependable than a turbo setup that can spike in boost under sudden load.

that pressure has to go somewhere in spikes, and making a window is usually the result

 

i would argue that too much power at too low of an rpm can be just as damaging if not moreso. high cylinder pressures at low rpm's usually results in bad things happening. however above 2k i would agree with you.

Thats not to say however that you would have pressure fluctuations in a decent turbo setup. In all of my turbo builds including my ls1 ive never had boost spike issues.

 

Thank you. Im actually contemplating going boosted that way, but in a way longer timeframe. ...like custom sc the trooper first since a jy unit spins the right way and then do the civic after my fab skills and equipment have progressed.

If even at 160 hp im in jeopardy of reliability issues then booooooo

Who knows though in the meantime maybe resources and luck will land me a jackson kit for a decent price. Given my goals the head build and stock jrsc would be pretty cool on a 1.5 at 10.5:1.

I totally see how a predictable airflow would be more reliable. Sorry for veering off topic, now back to ur regularly scheduled programming.

Oh dude, im not op. I gotcha on all that

 

to answer your original question, get a smaller spring like 5-7 psi, you can always increase boost with a manual boost controller but never decrease past the set wastegate spring.