While I don't claim to be an expert on boosting, I do spend a lot of time researching and understanding how things work and I wanted to pass on what I've learned on this journey of supercharging my USDM 1991 CRX Si. Hopefully this guide will help you on your journey as well.
If you've been following this thread and maybe contemplating on installing your own JRSC, these are the steps to take.
First make sure your engine is running strong with no CEL's. The expectation is that I will gain 35-50HP from installing this supercharger on my stock engine. I performed a compression test to determine health of engine. My D16A6 engine measured 180psi dry and 210 psi wet. After performing the wet test, I realized my dry numbers may have been lower than optimal due to not cranking the engine enough. But the numbers were high enough not to care about further testing. All my cylinders were pretty close and none were drastically off. It should be obvious that boosting your engine will increase the pressure on your engine internals so you want to make sure it can withstand this.
Acquire Jackson Racing Super Charger. Make sure it includes the parts you need. For D16A6, you need the tensioner bracket and preferably stock snout pulley. Offset alternator bracket isn’t needed for this setup. You will use the OEM Crank Pulley.
Paterico says "With the A6 crank pulley and a 3.2" blower pulley you're probably looking at 8lbs. I would encourage you to stick with the 3.4" blower pulley (if you have the A6 kit) and use a D16y8 crank pulley to get to around 8lbs of boost. Smaller pulleys are more prone to slippage, especially if you're using a 3-rib setup. I'm planning on using a D16y8 crank, 4-rib 3.2" blower pulley and a 4-rib D16y8 alternator pulley in my setup to make sure slippage isn't an issue."
Remember more power is made by increasing boost with a larger crank pulley and smaller snout pulley. The OEM crank pulley is dampened. There has always been much controversy on this but the general consensus for a daily driver is don’t change to a non dampened one unless you enjoy rebuilding engines.
Will you stay OBD0 or upgrade to OBD1?
I’m staying OBD0
Get a Windows laptop running Windows from the era 2000-2015
Chip your ECU (I used Conrad_1974 who sells modified ECU's on eBay)
Buy an emulator & chip programmer- I went with a Moates Ostrich 2.0 Decide software of choice for tuning- I decided to use Turbo Edit. Check out PGMFI for details. Once you've gathered everything, then actually confirm everything works.
Swap ECU with chipped ECU
Download chipped ECU base map to computer to verify you can read the chips (I could download but the map was modified with Tuner Express so I couldn’t open it with Turbo Edit.) Transfer base map to Emulator
Plug Emulator into chipped socket and verify car still runs normally. Battery in emulator lasts up to two years so technically you could just drive the car normally with the emulator plugged in
Install Wideband AFR. I used unused connectors in the under dash fuse panel and confirmed voltage with a voltmeter. I noticed when engine was on, gauge was on. When headlights turned on, gauge turned off. I thought maybe this power connector was used for daytime running lights or something that only works when the headlights are off. I decided to use a different ground and connect the yellow dimming wire to this and now when headlights are on the display dims as it should. I 3d printed a mount for my gauge. (The Lock/Unlock Switch is from a previous project that hasn't been refined yet for my door locks)
Install Boost Gauge (Just needs 12v power and ground). I wanted my gauge to be hidden. I removed the silkscreen logo and "turbo" by sanding and polishing it off. Paint thinner actually melted the tinted plastic case. The plate the gauge is mounted to is a prototype 3D printing I'm working on.
Next steps are to drain my engine coolant and prepare to remove the OEM Intake manifold.
So I drained the coolant by opening the radiator drain plug and removing the radiator cap. Then I began disconnecting hoses and connectors from my throttle body. I was incorrectly told that my D16A6 throttle body wouldn’t fit the JRSC so that fitment was in question until I could remove it and confirm it works
My D16A6 throttle body
My OEM throttle body gasket on the JRSC showing it fits fine. I may cut a new gasket.
It took some effort to remove the intake manifold. I carefully removed all the hoses and connectors to the manifold. I broke the PCV so I had to order a replacement. Removing the IM wasn’t too bad. Removing the center nut was the hardest but using this combination, I was able to remove it without too much trouble in a few minutes. An electric ratchet helps save a lot of time in cramped
Removing the bracket for the IM required unbolting 4 12mm bolts from underneath with a variety of extensions.
Once the bracket bolts were removed it was just a matter of disconnecting this. the tab disconnected it fast.
Lots of space
Unclipping the injector wires require just lifting the two corners of the wire clips then it can be removed. Clips don’t need to be completely removed to unplug them.
With the IM out, it’s time to move the parts I will be reusing on to the JRSC and making it fit my engine bay. I’m fully expecting to be missing parts and needing to clearance my shock tower. I bought a pneumatic hammer to make the process easier.
If you are new to installing a JRSC, then it’s a good idea to learn these terms! Today was spent transferring parts from my OEM intake manifold to the super charger. My JRSC came with some parts that weren’t meant for my generation of D Series. I also replaced the fuel filter. Removing the banjo bolts was easy with an impact wrench and a 17mm socket. No need to remove the service socket either.
The previous owner of the JRSC had this Idle Air Control Valve on but I needed to replace it with the one off my CRX. I cleaned the mesh screen inside
After two years of being off my old D16A6 and sitting in a box, I’m finally working on getting my JRSC originally for the D16A6 on to my DOHC ZC (Which only has recently been put back together after being apart for close to 10 years.). I’m a little out of my depth, everything is a learning...
I also rebuilt my DCM injectors. I can’t attach a pic to this post so will try another post.
How's it going just stumbled across this while looking for a carb sticker for my car..I've recently installed a jrsc kit on my daily 99 civic ex d16y8 stock making 8 pounds of pressure.. it was a pain tracking down any info when I started installation luckily I found a car that was being parted out and had a complete kit. Car had been posted for a year but post was active so I contacted the seller and boom was still available,guy's post was horrible but I'm glad it was I finally got my kit I've been wanting since my high school days when they were new..I'll post pics when I can,and try and help with any questions I can..
I know it’s been nearly a year since my last post. I’ve been itching to get back to work but I have a dilemma. My car is due for smog in two months, so I may just get it all back together and pass smog then continue working on the JRSC install or I may continue with the install and put my car on Non Op until I can finish the work then get to work smogging it. Doing the first way means I have two years to refine my install which is probably the smart way. My problems really began when it changed from a JRSC install to “let’s replace everything” impacted by the JRSC first. Timing belt, alternator, AC compressor(was already faulty), Another issue is I’ve got a currently non running MK4 Supra I’ve been working on keeping me from this project which is on top of the 4 post lift.
I have an update! I've spent the last week getting my CRX back together in stock form. To prepare for the JRSC install, I ended up installing a new alternator, new AC compressor, new throttle cable, new seals, new oil pan and gasket, all new air conditioning components from the evaporator to a new condenser, new timing belt, new water pump, tensioner, and then it came time to get a smog check lol. So I decided to reinstall my stock intake manifold, make sure my car runs normally. I have to take a break now for my wife's birthday tomorrow, but then I will begin pulling vacuum, filling fluids, and check for overall leaks (hopefully) not, and hopefully the timing is ok, although I plan to check the ignition timing as well. So my plan is once the car is running normally, get it smogged in the coming week or so and hopefully it passes as it's almost been just sitting on my rack since the last smog check lol. Then I will proceed to install the JRSC supercharger and this time with no more delays!