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Premium Member
1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm starting this thread for everyone that may have purchased a Jackson Racing Super Charger for their D-Series in the past 5-6 years. I began my search for one over a year ago, and finally purchased mine off eBay for about $2,000. I've searched all the forums for as much relevant information as I can over the past 20 years and while there is a ton of great info, there is very little relevant current information and many links are dead or pictures are lost.

So I wanted to start a new discussion thread for those actually wanting to go down this road today.

Please do NOT tell me about how your Turbo is cheaper and makes more power and is much better than a SuperCharger. Feel free to post that on a different thread.

This is what I purchased. It was missing the alternator bracket, the FMU which I wasn't going to use anyways, and the various hoses and connectors. But the primary parts were all there and came with the fuel rail, injectors, throttle body. It also came with the unobtainable high boost crank pulley and the JR 3.4 pulley. I just wasn't sure how much of it would apply to my D16A6. I did just by chance happen to purchase an Alternator mount off a seller on Facebook Marketplace while searching locally for a JRSC prior to buying this kit off Ebay. It came with some extra parts that I weren't sure were even relevant to my application.


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Factory Installation Manual

Factory Parts

This is my CRX and info on my process

Lets begin with brochure which can still be found online.



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If you're looking for a CARB sticker, these are available on eBay for $40 + shipping
Search "Jackson racing supercharger carb legal decal sticker integra gsr rsx civic bb6"
I'm guessing they printed them off because the listing always says they have only 1 left.
The E.O.# D-344-10 is the latest one.

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1320 Performance on ebay has some tensioner parts and pulleys. They have more parts for B-Series.

California JRSC Owners?

Install Notes here on D-Series

Install Notes off D-Series

JRSC for Noobies

MODDING
LHT is back to modifying the JRSC to be liquid cooled. At this time the price is $1195 to modify your manifold and S-tube.

Paterico's information is where I initially began researching from. He's got a ton of information on what has worked for him.

Rebuild Kits are available on ebay for $110
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Some pulley's can still be bought here and on ebay

Very Basic Understanding of the D-series JRSC kits. The Sebring labeled ones were the very first generation.

As soon as I received my purchase, I carefully documented what I had and what I was missing. The previous owner purchased it for his build, but sold the car and never installed it. So I had no idea of the actual history of the blower. The rotors were partially coated and there was some grind marks inside the housing. I smoothed the housing by sanding it with 320grit sand paper. The aluminum is pretty soft so it's not to hard. I used various tools to smooth it out and polish. Several people online mentioned that acetone can be used to strip the OEM coating off the rotors. I haven't tried that yet but that's my plan. I use a vapor steamer which worked as well but just very slowly.

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I've seen references to this diagram for how the super charger is installed but I didn't understand how the belts are routed.The diagram on the left shows the two belts on the back and front parts of the crank pulley. The second diagram shows both belts on the same part of the crank pulley. I couldn't find any information to clarify this.


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Premium Member
1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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My Bypass Valve Actuator was broken. It held zero vacuum. I was able to find another one new from a Miata site that still carried parts for the M45 Eaton SC. It cost me about $200. Moss Miata had one as well but by the time it arrived it was going to cost about $250. The Miata site I got it from is called Track Dog Racing and they said these fail after around 30,000 miles. It might be worthwhile to buy a few while you still can.
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I drained the oil and it wasn't too bad.

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Yeah there are some grooves there. So that's why I decided to replace all the bearings. I started off by purchasing a 12 ton bearing press from Harbor Freight.
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I found a picture on the internet--maybe this is Paterico? I'm sorry I can't remember..actually his CRX is red so I'm not sure whose it is. But I just did a comparison to see what the engine bay with the JRSC looked like and with mine before the install. A few things I'm wondering:

1.) I've heard the D16A6 throttle body won't mount on the S-Tube. My JRSC came with a OBD1 throttle body I believe but some of the sensors are broken on it.
2.) I've read conflicting information about whether the shock tower needs pounding or not for clearance. I still have to determine that.

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Currently this is what I have purchased for this build:
Innovate MTL-X Plus AFR + Hulog + Chipped PM6 ECU
I have already confirmed I can read the chip, save it to a file, and open it up in Turbo Edit.
I have DSM 450CC injectors and a rebuild kit
JRSC Rebuild Kit
LED Boost Gauge


My plan is to run this JRSC on my D16A6 with OBD0 and the DSM 450CC like Paterico was doing. I'm not looking for crazy boost, I just want to have some more fun on my CRX which isn't a daily driver. It also adds a beautiful whine and some uniqueness to it.

I realize that just swapping out the ECU or tuning it will make it CARB illegal (same with injectors) however I'm going to see if I can tune it and keep it Smog legal through the sniffer or if its possible to just swap tunes when smog time comes, otherwise I have to pull everything and go back to stock and want to minimize the work to do that.
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When removing the Bypass Valve Actuator, one of the M8 bolts was rounded, so I ended up drilling it out. I tried to use an extractor tool but it wasn't successful. Note I had soaked the bolts with PB Blaster for over an hour before trying to loosen them. So I ended up drilling it out expecting it to fall apart out of the threaded hole but it didn't. I damaged some of the threads. Typically its not a big deal and I would just retap the hole but I had some trouble, so I decided to try a new tool for me that is a two in one, one part drill bit and one part tap, so you just need to drill a single hole and it threads it automatically.
I bought it on Amazon for $14.
Search terms "Hymnorq Metric M8 x 1.25 Combination Drill and Tap Bit"
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Some cutting fluid can help the process.
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My replacement valve is set to arrive on Wednesday from Texas. I hope it will be a direct replacement.

I assembled my Harbor Freight 12 ton press. My rebuild kit is due to arrive any day now.

After much research, it seems the consensus these days is that stripping the OEM coating off the rotors is okay to do. I may try applying a professional ceramic coating that I did R&D for that provides a very hard and thick barrier instead. But we shall see. Acetone seems to be the best chemical for stripping the coating. Because I didn't have a deep dish to soak the rotors, I opted to place it in a glass bowl and lay wet towels laid over the rotors drenched with acetone. Then I rubbed the rotors after about 30 minutes of setting to remove the coating.

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The coating is mostly stripped off. It needs just a little more work but otherwise the process was successful.
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Polishing using a hand drill wasn't great. Switching to a really old drill press was much better. This one is very well neglected and maybe time to replace it with something better but it got the job done.

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I got the buffing pads on Amazon. 5 Pcs Cone-Shaped White Flannelette Polishing Wheel Grinding Head with 1/4" Handle
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My really old Harbor Freight drill press thats been rusting and gathering dust in the corner of my shop. Amazingly it still works.
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Next steps are replace the bearings with the rebuild kit and replace the bypass actuator valve once they arrive next week.

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I'm not trying to remove all the grooves. I sanded the aluminum with 320grit papers and higher ending at 1500 grit. My goal was just to smooth the majority of the grooves and turn the surface from rough to glassy smooth. I used a variety of rouges again bought at Amazon. They are small blocks of waxy looking bricks in a variety of colors and aggressiveness. You just spin the buffing wheel against them and them buff the metal to a shine. They won't remove deep defects but they will turn rough sanded metal with 1000 grit to a mirror polished finish.

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89 EF 4wd sedan
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I had to absolutely clearance the shock tower to fit mine, if not to bolt the thing in there just giving it enough room to pass the belt between the shock tower and the snout makes life easier.

The belt routing graphic is just incorrect. The AC belt is still running on the front of the crank pulley, the JRSC just replaces the existing alternator belt for a longer one.

I've been using my bypass valve actuator for ages (7 years maybe?) It also wasn't new when i bought the kit, guess I was lucky.

Did you read up about refinishing those bores? I haven't, but i can imagine the tolerances would've been very tight to start with and now it's been randomly sanded and polished. The surface might look smooth, but if the clearance isn't uniform when the rotor sweeps, it might not build boost very effectively.

Are people running these with no coating? What was the point of the coating originally? Friction reduction, reduce heatsoak, prevent the aluminium from galling? (You mentioned you did R&D on a replacement coating).

GL with the resto, they're definitely not the quickest but they have great character.
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for chiming in! I've read so many conflicting stories about some people not having to to others definitely having to.

My purpose for sanding and polishing was merely to remove the grooves ground in by the rotors making contact with the case. I'm definitely not clearancing it or removing a substantial amount of material. I agree though, I'm no expert on this subject. I've just been researching everything I can get my hands on to find answers to my questions. My expertise as been in the restoration and refinishing of automobiles, so metal polishing for cosmetic reasons is something I'm very experienced with, just not for rebuilding super chargers.

Most of the articles I have found for not recoating have been for financial reasons. I will double check my research on the issue of the rotors being used without coatings however. I recall one article that discussed the coatings used on the M45 was different for the M62 and other generations. I'll link that up a bit later.

Thanks for clarifying the diagram. I had a feeling it was incorrect, but I have never seen anyone correct it despite sharing it.

I tested my bypass valve actuator with a small handheld vacuum pump before looking inside the valve and seeing that the rubber part was torn. It's possible that it was never replaced.


I had to absolutely clearance the shock tower to fit mine, if not to bolt the thing in there just giving it enough room to pass the belt between the shock tower and the snout makes life easier.

The belt routing graphic is just incorrect. The AC belt is still running on the front of the crank pulley, the JRSC just replaces the existing alternator belt for a longer one.

I've been using my bypass valve actuator for ages (7 years maybe?) It also wasn't new when i bought the kit, guess I was lucky.

Did you read up about refinishing those bores? I haven't, but i can imagine the tolerances would've been very tight to start with and now it's been randomly sanded and polished. The surface might look smooth, but if the clearance isn't uniform when the rotor sweeps, it might not build boost very effectively.

Are people running these with no coating? What was the point of the coating originally? Friction reduction, reduce heatsoak, prevent the aluminium from galling? (You mentioned you did R&D on a replacement coating).

GL with the resto, they're definitely not the quickest but they have great character.
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The High Speed Lab will rebuild and recoat your JRSC. I'm still trying to find out what determines whether its a Gen 3, 4, or 5. I know the Sebring M45's were the very first versions for the D series but I'm not sure if that's considered a Gen 3?

 

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Im 99.9% these sebring M45s are gen 3. From my research you are defiantly going to want to get those bores and rotors coated and the clearances between all three parts closed considerably if you want the as specified performance. I think you might be surprised with how much of an effect you can have on aluminum bores using powered tools guided by hand when trying to work in the realm of + - .005" being quite a bit.

That said I guess on the upside of bigger gaps will mean less power but less heat to deal with? But I do not know. One theory I read about on a GM site had people happily running their crankcase gasses in front of the SC to provide a continuous wearable coating of gunk that perpetually maintained a gap of .0000001" between the two sticky surfaces no mater what gaps you start out with.
Another gap filling theory is adding water/meth (choose your formula and tune) injection before the rotors to provide sealing (and charge cooling). The smart guy Pat Primer (R.I.P) that posted here allot made a really good argument for letting water/meth injection be as close to water as possible because one is injecting fuel later. Keep the apples and oranges separate and know givens. There is a massive JRSC thread on honda tech...

I have a D16y8 JRSC that has Sebring cast into it!! I bought it 3 years ago and you are further along than me with the supercharger so good stuff!!!
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had a slight delay on the next parts of my build because the 12 ton Press I bought had a defective jack. My next steps were to replace the bearings. I needed this press to remove them. It cost me $130 at HF along with another $60 in press tools from Amazon. My rebuild kit came with an extra bearing that seems to have been a mistake as it wasn't listed on the listing photo.

I've been following DIY KAI on YouTube for this section. He's got some excellent detailed videos on his process.


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Premium Member
1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My new Bypass Valve Actuator arrived today. I bought it from Track Dog Racing which sells parts for Miatas. Since I can’t find anyone selling JRSC parts for Honda’s anymore. I just looked for Gen 3 M45 Eaton parts.
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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Comparing the new part to the original, it appears my original was repaired unless they came with a metal hose barb, but otherwise it seems to be identical in every way. Holds vacuum perfectly unlike my original. This is where I bought it. I selected for the M45. The price was the best I could find and it was in stock although apparently my screenshot below shows I got the last one until July.

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My new Bypass Valve Actuator arrived today. I bought it from Track Dog Racing which sells parts for Miatas. Since I can’t find anyone selling JRSC parts for Honda’s anymore. I just looked for Gen 3 M45 Eaton parts.
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Does anyone know whether JRSC kit on the D16A6 application, does it need the alternator offset bracket? I acquired one on Facebook Market Place and it was described as the alternator bracket for the JRSC and I recognized it, so I bought it. I think it's missing a shaft. But with a mix of information out there, I'm trying to find out if it's needed for my application. Another question along those lines, with the OEM D16A6 Crankshaft Pulley work? I have the non dampened high boost one from Jackson Racing but wondering if I can use the OEM one.

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Premium Member
1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Found an old post from 2005 regarding the purpose of the coating on the rotors. Although its from a Miata forum, its from Magneson. He accidentally stripped the coating with throttle body cleaner.

Here's part of the post "Good News! I spoke with Kevin at Magnesun and described what I did and that the rotors coating was stripped away from the throttle body cleaner. He told me that the main purpose of the coating was protection from moisture. He said that while the coating does provide a slightly better seal; therby better efficiency, it is so slight that he doubts anyone could notice. He also said that over time, most superchargers will get hot and that some of the teflon will peel off. Apparently alot of rebuilds come in with this situation. He said he would be happy to rebuild it for $550 but he wouldn't bother and to reinstall it and there won't be any problems. I expressed concern about the remaining coating flaking off and getting into the intake. He then said that this is only a concern if there is an intercooler which may get clogged, otherwise, not a biggie. So in a nutshell, it ain't smart to spray anything into the supercharger, but provided it's cleaned out well afterwards, it isn't going to ruin the supercharger."

Original Post:

Came from this Thread:

Here's another related post on how much oil to use in that same thread because the OP said it was smoking after he started the car. The OP used almost 8oz of Supercharger Oil but the actual amount is apparently a lot less.
"Yes, you can overfill it (and you did). You should have most of that second bottle left over, in fact.
On many other applications, the SC is mounted to the car with the oil fill/drain in the up and level position. You suction the old out and then you fill to the bottom of the fill/drain plug shaft.
Dunno the side effects of too much oil in the SC, though. There will be a little more effort needed to rotate those gears through the lube and less splash lubrication. You might find a small weep through the nose seals or you might be just fine."
 

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89 EF 4wd sedan
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Does anyone know whether JRSC kit on the D16A6 application, does it need the alternator offset bracket? I acquired one on Facebook Market Place and it was described as the alternator bracket for the JRSC and I recognized it, so I bought it. I think it's missing a shaft. But with a mix of information out there, I'm trying to find out if it's needed for my application. Another question along those lines, with the OEM D16A6 Crankshaft Pulley work? I have the non dampened high boost one from Jackson Racing but wondering if I can use the OEM one.
I can't comment on the offset sorry, i'm running mine on a DOHC D, but i chose to build the boost at the charger snout, i'm running a 3 rib belt on a 3" pulley and i never had any issues with belt slip, and saw 12psi on a stock motor. That way i didn't have to worry about offsets, overdriving the alternator or the mysteries of whether it's bad to run undampened crank pulleys. Not all OEM crank pulleys have the same diameter though, so check what your a6 pulley diameter is, from memory the DOHC pulleys are the largest.
 

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1991 CRX Si
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think I was under the mistaken impression that you must replace the crankshaft pulley.

I understand very well that boost is affected by a larger crankshaft pulley or smaller snout pulley. It wasn’t clear to me if the pulleys were offset on them.

My kit came with what appeared to be an unused JRSC high boost crank shaft pulley which I understand many people fear since its not dampened.


I can't comment on the offset sorry, i'm running mine on a DOHC D, but i chose to build the boost at the charger snout, i'm running a 3 rib belt on a 3" pulley
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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I hate the idea of undampened crankshafts, its so bad for the poor crank and bearings running without one!

If the engine is a hit it and quit it type (one blast pass) drag racing, then get a rebuild after only a couple passes, there MIGHT be benefits to run without a harmonic damper. Other than that, zero reason to NOT have one.



 
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