[ShowCarGuy]

Can anyone tell me what this is that I’ve circled in yellow? Is this a valve? Is this something that was used with the FMU?

 

[drtalon123]

Looks like a diaphragm pressure switch, probably spring loaded, designed to do something with manifold pressure. Its got an electrical spade connector on it, so its likely a pressure switch of some kind.

What it controls? Not sure.

 

[ShowCarGuy]

Thanks I’ve seen it a few times but haven’t been able to find out what it does. Here is another variation of it.

Looks like a diaphragm pressure switch, probably spring loaded, designed to do something with manifold pressure. Its got an electrical spade connector on it, so its likely a pressure switch of some kind.

What it controls? Not sure.

 

[slo_eg8]

boost pressure guage?

 

[ShowCarGuy]

I asked this question on a JRSC Facebook group and got this reply.

Looks like a diaphragm pressure switch, probably spring loaded, designed to do something with manifold pressure. Its got an electrical spade connector on it, so its likely a pressure switch of some kind.

What it controls? Not sure.

Thanks I’ve seen it a few times but haven’t been able to find out what it does. Here is another variation of it.

View attachment 143871

 

[ShowCarGuy]

Today was the day to begin my JRSC install. I received my registration renewal yesterday
since I passed smog. I unplugged my battery, drained the coolant, pulled the ECU fuse, and began unplugging all the hoses and removing the intake manifold. The last time I did all the work, the car was on my lift, but now its on the ground with a crowded shop, so removing the IM bracket/brace is a lot more difficult. However a metal splinter in my finger stopped all work for the day. Tomorrow, I will get the bracket off, and the IM will come loose as I have removed all the nuts already. Can't wait to finally get going on the next phase.

 

[ShowCarGuy]

Finally got the intake manifold out today. The support bracket was difficult to remove from the top but I eventually got it off.

I dropped the JRSC into place to see how it fit. Fortunately the snout pulley had plenty of clearance but the alternator pulley and the tensioner pulleys absolutely needed clearancing. Having read the usual way to do this is with a large hammer and a torch, I planned for a different process with a small air hammer and an induction heater to focus the heat on just the area I needed without an open flame. Combining the two it only took about 10 minutes of shaping before it fit.

Checking clearance of tensioner pulley before shaping, not much room at all.

I tried air hammering first and it worked very slowly so I decided to use my induction heater and within a few minutes I was hammering and shaping it instantly.

Air hammer works with just 90psi.

I believe this is enough clearance for the pulley to slip a belt here. Alternator also clears fine.

 

[ShowCarGuy]

I have a goal, to have my JRSC installed and driving by this Sunday. Unfortunately my shop is full so it’s not getting the priority I want to give it. However I’m making progress daily little by little. I used self etching primer on the exposed metal after shaping it, then added some red paint. Then reinstalled the alternator and JRSC tensioner bracket. I modified the fuel rail with my Dremel and DSM injector seals to fit the SC. I’m extending wires for the TA sensor and I believe Fast idle before I drop the SC back in. I spent a lot of time identifying all the hose connections as well. I will post details of this soon.

Finally got the intake manifold out today. The support bracket was difficult to remove from the top but I eventually got it off.
View attachment 144030

I dropped the JRSC into place to see how it fit. Fortunately the snout pulley had plenty of clearance but the alternator pulley and the tensioner pulleys absolutely needed clearancing. Having read the usual way to do this is with a large hammer and a torch, I planned for a different process with a small air hammer and an induction heater to focus the heat on just the area I needed without an open flame. Combining the two it only took about 10 minutes of shaping before it fit.
View attachment 144031

Checking clearance of tensioner pulley before shaping, not much room at all.

View attachment 144032
View attachment 144033
I tried air hammering first and it worked very slowly so I decided to use my induction heater and within a few minutes I was hammering and shaping it instantly.

View attachment 144034
Air hammer works with just 90psi.

View attachment 144035
I believe this is enough clearance for the pulley to slip a belt here. Alternator also clears fine.

 

[ShowCarGuy]

I installed and removed the SC several times today checking for clearance and positioning. The alternator was pressing pretty hard against the bottom of the SC, so I decided to see if I could shorten the post after confirming that rotating it wasn’t really an easy option. I confirmed all hose locations and checked to see how much I need to modify my intake tubing. Pretty much the only gotcha was the return fuel line from my FPR. Since my OEM rail couldn’t be used the FPR was moved to the opposite side of the fuel rail meaning the hose was now too short. I decided to get a barbed Union to go from 5/16” to 1/4” id hose. Then I can reconnect the return fuel line.

before modifying alternator

trimming alternator post

Alternator post shortened

 

[ShowCarGuy]

I accomplished my goal. I got the SC in, no leaks, no extra parts, everything is solid, I swapped ECUs to my chipped emulator, I added fluid, started her up and she ran a little rough which I expected with the 450cc injectors…but turned it off immediately to check for any gas or coolant leaks. Looking at the supercharger belt, I noticed it looked funny, like it wasn’t centered on the pulley. Then I realized what happened. I clearanced the engine bay for the pulleys but not the belt!!! So the belt was rubbing against the engine bay as it came down from the supercharger snout pulley. Not good but it’s fixable. Just have to remove it all again.

 

[ShowCarGuy]

I used a metal chop saw to shorten my intake tube. That also meant losing the breather tube. I bought a 6” 2.5” diameter hose to connect the intake to my throttle body. Since I can’t weld aluminum my plan was just use a fitting on the hose connector to fashion a breather tube to the valve cover.
Shaping the engine bay takes work. While my induction heater and air hammer worked great for clearancing the pulleys, it’s very slow going for clearancing the SC belt. So looks like I will be still using a torch and the BFH lol.

 

[dibs84]

Nice work mate, still following this build, thanks for the updates

 

[ShowCarGuy]

I’m now using a torch to heat the metal and bashing with the air hammer and also a large hammer. It’s almost there. It’s a painstakingly slow process.

Clearance for the pulley is great

clearance on all sides for the pulley is great

I fear the belt will still slightly rub again the frame so I need to bash it in more.

 

[ShowCarGuy]

Look what I found at Jon Bond Performance. JRSC 3.8” 4 rib pulleys. They got a bunch and restored them.

Jackson Racing 3.8″, 4 rib, keyway pulley, 1″ offset – Jon Bond Performance LLC

 

[ShowCarGuy]

After much bashing with a torch, air hammer, and a new 4lb hammer, I finally got all the clearance I needed. A lot of paint was removed so I used my self etching primer and Touchup paint to clean up the area. I’m getting ready to put it all back together. I purchased a hose adapter fitting that will allow me to run a hose from the shortened intake tube to the valve cover. I figured its easier to drill a hole in the silicone extension tube and plumb that then trying to weld a new tube on it. I included a picture below.

 

[ShowCarGuy]

I just found out about a way to eliminate belt slip. Stiegemeyer provides a service of applying a Constrictor Grip to your pulley. Apparently you send them the pulley, it gets machined and coated.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?st...9NYR5cc7MkR5HMtDiBK32fz2oFfpeM5Ynt6zEckbK5El&id=170248426325700&mibextid=qC1gEa

 

[ShowCarGuy]

Alternator and idler pulley locked down and plenty of clearance all around. I positioned the SC into place and no rubbing anywhere. It was a hassle bashing the engine bay for clearance, then removing the SC and putting it back but it feels good to finally be done lol. It was really hard trying to photograph it but checking from all sides there was no rubbing or chance of rubbing anywhere.

 

[Build2]

nice, before this thread i never knew clearancing was required

 

[ShowCarGuy]

nice, before this thread i never knew clearancing was required

I had read so many conflicting stories that some needed it or didn’t, some needed only a little, some needed a lot lol. And of course the only way to find out is bolt it together and see what happens except it’s kinda of a PIA to repeat the process over and over.

 

[c6VtetteGuy]

I have a complete full Jackson racing supercharger set up installed on my 95 civic. It was on the car when I purchased it.. iv been debating pulling it all off and putting it back to a stock manifold. anyone have any ideas wha its worth?