Oh that’s nice! Thanks for sharing.

 

While I don't claim to be an expert on boosting, I do spend a lot of time researching and understanding how things work and I wanted to pass on what I've learned on this journey of supercharging my USDM 1991 CRX Si. Hopefully this guide will help you on your journey as well.

If you've been following this thread and maybe contemplating on installing your own JRSC, these are the steps to take.

First make sure your engine is running strong with no CEL's. The expectation is that I will gain 35-50HP from installing this supercharger on my stock engine. I performed a compression test to determine health of engine. My D16A6 engine measured 180psi dry and 210 psi wet. After performing the wet test, I realized my dry numbers may have been lower than optimal due to not cranking the engine enough. But the numbers were high enough not to care about further testing. All my cylinders were pretty close and none were drastically off. It should be obvious that boosting your engine will increase the pressure on your engine internals so you want to make sure it can withstand this.

Acquire Jackson Racing Super Charger. Make sure it includes the parts you need. For D16A6, you need the tensioner bracket and preferably stock snout pulley. Offset alternator bracket isn’t needed for this setup. You will use the OEM Crank Pulley.

Paterico says "With the A6 crank pulley and a 3.2" blower pulley you're probably looking at 8lbs. I would encourage you to stick with the 3.4" blower pulley (if you have the A6 kit) and use a D16y8 crank pulley to get to around 8lbs of boost. Smaller pulleys are more prone to slippage, especially if you're using a 3-rib setup. I'm planning on using a D16y8 crank, 4-rib 3.2" blower pulley and a 4-rib D16y8 alternator pulley in my setup to make sure slippage isn't an issue."

Remember more power is made by increasing boost with a larger crank pulley and smaller snout pulley. The OEM crank pulley is dampened. There has always been much controversy on this but the general consensus for a daily driver is don’t change to a non dampened one unless you enjoy rebuilding engines.

Will you stay OBD0 or upgrade to OBD1?
I’m staying OBD0

Get a Windows laptop running Windows from the era 2000-2015

Chip your ECU (I used Conrad_1974 who sells modified ECU's on eBay)

Buy an emulator & chip programmer- I went with a Moates Ostrich 2.0
Decide software of choice for tuning- I decided to use Turbo Edit. Check out PGMFI for details.
Once you've gathered everything, then actually confirm everything works.
Swap ECU with chipped ECU
Download chipped ECU base map to computer to verify you can read the chips (I could download but the map was modified with Tuner Express so I couldn’t open it with Turbo Edit.)
Transfer base map to Emulator
Plug Emulator into chipped socket and verify car still runs normally. Battery in emulator lasts up to two years so technically you could just drive the car normally with the emulator plugged in

Install Wideband AFR. I used unused connectors in the under dash fuse panel and confirmed voltage with a voltmeter. I noticed when engine was on, gauge was on. When headlights turned on, gauge turned off. I thought maybe this power connector was used for daytime running lights or something that only works when the headlights are off. I decided to use a different ground and connect the yellow dimming wire to this and now when headlights are on the display dims as it should. I 3d printed a mount for my gauge. (The Lock/Unlock Switch is from a previous project that hasn't been refined yet for my door locks)

Install Boost Gauge (Just needs 12v power and ground). I wanted my gauge to be hidden. I removed the silkscreen logo and "turbo" by sanding and polishing it off. Paint thinner actually melted the tinted plastic case. The plate the gauge is mounted to is a prototype 3D printing I'm working on.

Next steps are to drain my engine coolant and prepare to remove the OEM Intake manifold.

 

So I drained the coolant by opening the radiator drain plug and removing the radiator cap. Then I began disconnecting hoses and connectors from my throttle body. I was incorrectly told that my D16A6 throttle body wouldn’t fit the JRSC so that fitment was in question until I could remove it and confirm it works

My D16A6 throttle body

My OEM throttle body gasket on the JRSC showing it fits fine. I may cut a new gasket.

 

It took some effort to remove the intake manifold. I carefully removed all the hoses and connectors to the manifold. I broke the PCV so I had to order a replacement. Removing the IM wasn’t too bad. Removing the center nut was the hardest but using this combination, I was able to remove it without too much trouble in a few minutes. An electric ratchet helps save a lot of time in cramped

Removing the bracket for the IM required unbolting 4 12mm bolts from underneath with a variety of extensions.

Once the bracket bolts were removed it was just a matter of disconnecting this. the tab disconnected it fast.

Lots of space

Unclipping the injector wires require just lifting the two corners of the wire clips then it can be removed. Clips don’t need to be completely removed to unplug them.

With the IM out, it’s time to move the parts I will be reusing on to the JRSC and making it fit my engine bay. I’m fully expecting to be missing parts and needing to clearance my shock tower. I bought a pneumatic hammer to make the process easier.

 

If you are new to installing a JRSC, then it’s a good idea to learn these terms! Today was spent transferring parts from my OEM intake manifold to the super charger. My JRSC came with some parts that weren’t meant for my generation of D Series. I also replaced the fuel filter. Removing the banjo bolts was easy with an impact wrench and a 17mm socket. No need to remove the service socket either.

The previous owner of the JRSC had this Idle Air Control Valve on but I needed to replace it with the one off my CRX. I cleaned the mesh screen inside

Replaced

This was helpful diagram

D16A6 JRSC Map/hose line Diagram, is this correct?

After two years of being off my old D16A6 and sitting in a box, I’m finally working on getting my JRSC originally for the D16A6 on to my DOHC ZC (Which only has recently been put back together after being apart for close to 10 years.). I’m a little out of my depth, everything is a learning...

www.d-series.org

I also rebuilt my DCM injectors. I can’t attach a pic to this post so will try another post.

 

How's it going just stumbled across this while looking for a carb sticker for my car..I've recently installed a jrsc kit on my daily 99 civic ex d16y8 stock making 8 pounds of pressure.. it was a pain tracking down any info when I started installation luckily I found a car that was being parted out and had a complete kit. Car had been posted for a year but post was active so I contacted the seller and boom was still available,guy's post was horrible but I'm glad it was I finally got my kit I've been wanting since my high school days when they were new..I'll post pics when I can,and try and help with any questions I can..

 

Awesome thread with lots of good info . I've always wanted one of these for my Y8.

 

Sorry for the lack of updates. My own JRSC install came to a halt while I finish other projects but I will be getting back to this soon!

 

hey take your time, it's not like there are 50 other JRSC projects goin on, we have nowhere else to go

 

I know it’s been nearly a year since my last post. I’ve been itching to get back to work but I have a dilemma. My car is due for smog in two months, so I may just get it all back together and pass smog then continue working on the JRSC install or I may continue with the install and put my car on Non Op until I can finish the work then get to work smogging it. Doing the first way means I have two years to refine my install which is probably the smart way. My problems really began when it changed from a JRSC install to “let’s replace everything” impacted by the JRSC first. Timing belt, alternator, AC compressor(was already faulty), Another issue is I’ve got a currently non running MK4 Supra I’ve been working on keeping me from this project which is on top of the 4 post lift.

 

me gusta

 

ooft, looks beautiful.

 

I have an update! I've spent the last week getting my CRX back together in stock form. To prepare for the JRSC install, I ended up installing a new alternator, new AC compressor, new throttle cable, new seals, new oil pan and gasket, all new air conditioning components from the evaporator to a new condenser, new timing belt, new water pump, tensioner, and then it came time to get a smog check lol. So I decided to reinstall my stock intake manifold, make sure my car runs normally. I have to take a break now for my wife's birthday tomorrow, but then I will begin pulling vacuum, filling fluids, and check for overall leaks (hopefully) not, and hopefully the timing is ok, although I plan to check the ignition timing as well. So my plan is once the car is running normally, get it smogged in the coming week or so and hopefully it passes as it's almost been just sitting on my rack since the last smog check lol. Then I will proceed to install the JRSC supercharger and this time with no more delays!

 

Finally got my CRX back to stock and will be going for smog in the next week or so. I’m happy that once I pass, moving forward in this journey will be much simpler as I will only be replacing the intake manifold. The headaches to get here was certainly worth it now that I have a keen understanding of my car.

 

Great choice in just getting the car running. I went off the deep end on my car and its been a rolling chassis or on jackstands for the last couple years.

 

Awww man. Yeah I usually don’t make sensible decisions lol.

 

I got my CRX smogged today back in stock form. I was a little worried about it passing but it passed with flying colors. As soon as I have some free time I will continue back with putting in the JRSC which I'm really looking forward to!

 

In preparing for installing my JRSC Supercharger in my CRX Si, I've continued reading other peoples experiences. This is a great explanation for how Jackson Racing designed the SC to work using their "hacks". I am sharing this so new owners of the JRSC can understand how the FMU and Pressure Switch and Resister hack worked together. The quote comes from "Spawne32" on the Honda-Tech forum. "You have your FMU, and you have your pressure switch which is connected to a relay on the IAT. Your map is still in its factory location so it only reads vac, as it should. Now at this point, the car never knows its in boost, but what the JR fuel stuff does is, when you hit 1psi, the FMU begins to raise fuel pressure on a 5:1 ratio for every 1 pound of boost it see's. As the fuel pressure rises..." Read the whole post HERE

 

The DSM 450 injectors are a common upgrade but the seals won't fit without some trimming. I found that a Dremel tool with the little sander is almost the exact same diameter. It only need a little bit of trimming. I also used a sharp knife to trim it as sanding the rubber can be tricky.

The injector seal lightly pressed onto the sander. All you have to do is hold the seal and turn on the Dremel tool to shave the inner diameter. It doesn't need much. I did a little bit, then flipped it around and did it some more from the other side.

After doing this without gloves I decided it was smarter to put some on.

Testing the fit on the injectors

Fitting all the injectors with the seals.

Next up is to check the flow of each injector and giving them a thorough cleaning.

 

I was saddened to learn yesterday that Moates decided to stop producing their products. I'm thankful to have purchased their Ostrich 2.0 and burners when I had the chance.

Farewell Message
22 November, 2022

Holiday Greetings!

As we move into the end of 2022, we sincerely want to say "THANK YOU ALL" for support and patronage. It's been a thrill helping folks with their efforts, and we've truly appreciated the opportunities to socialize, exchange ideas, learn, teach, and facilitate along the way.

We're closing down the webstore and related operations so that we can pursue the balance of our lives in different areas. There are several challenges that have led us to this decision, and we hope you can all appreciate the following:

The headwinds of production supply shortages have cut our supply lines to the marrow. Many components we've used have lead times of a year or more, with costs having increased significantly along the way. There's no end in sight, and we don't want to sacrifice quality with questionable sourcing or chase the costs by increasing prices.

We've been doing this for a while now, and we're tired and getting older. It's time for us to take a step back and focus on health, family, and overall wellness. Running Moates.net has taken a tremendous amount of time, which is a limited resource and in short supply. Between arthritis and chronic pain of hands, backs, and other various injuries of body parts, it is a challenge to physically perform tasks needed to keep things going and we need to change what we are doing to improve our quality of life.

We wish you the best on all your projects, whatever they may become. It's been an amazing experience, and again, we truly appreciate you all as we take this step!


Giving thanks,

Craig, Bonnie, and Dave

 

Can anyone tell me what this is that I’ve circled in yellow? Is this a valve? Is this something that was used with the FMU?

 

Looks like a diaphragm pressure switch, probably spring loaded, designed to do something with manifold pressure. Its got an electrical spade connector on it, so its likely a pressure switch of some kind.

What it controls? Not sure.

 

Thanks I’ve seen it a few times but haven’t been able to find out what it does. Here is another variation of it.

 

boost pressure guage?

 

Today was the day to begin my JRSC install. I received my registration renewal yesterday
since I passed smog. I unplugged my battery, drained the coolant, pulled the ECU fuse, and began unplugging all the hoses and removing the intake manifold. The last time I did all the work, the car was on my lift, but now its on the ground with a crowded shop, so removing the IM bracket/brace is a lot more difficult. However a metal splinter in my finger stopped all work for the day. Tomorrow, I will get the bracket off, and the IM will come loose as I have removed all the nuts already. Can't wait to finally get going on the next phase.

 

Finally got the intake manifold out today. The support bracket was difficult to remove from the top but I eventually got it off.

I dropped the JRSC into place to see how it fit. Fortunately the snout pulley had plenty of clearance but the alternator pulley and the tensioner pulleys absolutely needed clearancing. Having read the usual way to do this is with a large hammer and a torch, I planned for a different process with a small air hammer and an induction heater to focus the heat on just the area I needed without an open flame. Combining the two it only took about 10 minutes of shaping before it fit.

Checking clearance of tensioner pulley before shaping, not much room at all.

I tried air hammering first and it worked very slowly so I decided to use my induction heater and within a few minutes I was hammering and shaping it instantly.

Air hammer works with just 90psi.

I believe this is enough clearance for the pulley to slip a belt here. Alternator also clears fine.

 

I have a goal, to have my JRSC installed and driving by this Sunday. Unfortunately my shop is full so it’s not getting the priority I want to give it. However I’m making progress daily little by little. I used self etching primer on the exposed metal after shaping it, then added some red paint. Then reinstalled the alternator and JRSC tensioner bracket. I modified the fuel rail with my Dremel and DSM injector seals to fit the SC. I’m extending wires for the TA sensor and I believe Fast idle before I drop the SC back in. I spent a lot of time identifying all the hose connections as well. I will post details of this soon.

 

I installed and removed the SC several times today checking for clearance and positioning. The alternator was pressing pretty hard against the bottom of the SC, so I decided to see if I could shorten the post after confirming that rotating it wasn’t really an easy option. I confirmed all hose locations and checked to see how much I need to modify my intake tubing. Pretty much the only gotcha was the return fuel line from my FPR. Since my OEM rail couldn’t be used the FPR was moved to the opposite side of the fuel rail meaning the hose was now too short. I decided to get a barbed Union to go from 5/16” to 1/4” id hose. Then I can reconnect the return fuel line.

before modifying alternator

trimming alternator post

Alternator post shortened

 

I accomplished my goal. I got the SC in, no leaks, no extra parts, everything is solid, I swapped ECUs to my chipped emulator, I added fluid, started her up and she ran a little rough which I expected with the 450cc injectors…but turned it off immediately to check for any gas or coolant leaks. Looking at the supercharger belt, I noticed it looked funny, like it wasn’t centered on the pulley. Then I realized what happened. I clearanced the engine bay for the pulleys but not the belt!!! So the belt was rubbing against the engine bay as it came down from the supercharger snout pulley. Not good but it’s fixable. Just have to remove it all again.