[Honda-Rallying]

just so i understand...

are you saying to install them into the block dry..? cause i was under the impression they needed the lube on the threads going into the block...

do you use lube on both sides..? sorry, im thinking about installing mine today/tomorrow so i just want to be clear...

Only lube the washers and bolt heads, this avoids that awful creaking sound you get when cranking up the poundage, its the bolt slipping gripping and stretching, not good for the threads either

 

[Belette]

I always did 25-50-65-65 with moly lube and never had issues, I used them around 10 times.

I disagree with people torquing them at 80 even they are full of rep and posts, studs thread are FINE, not coarse. It clamps in tons right down to head even at 60-65, and also we use moly lube. I don't believe putting more tq on them will prevent headlift, perhaps I'm wrong, but from my experience, it won't prevent anything, more tendency to break or stress parts.

I wouldn't appreciate stretching block threads and studs themselves due to overtorquing, think more torque on the stud, better clamping you'll get. False. If you want more clamping force, drill block and head, and install bigger studs.

The only thing I'm not agreeing with ARP is the preload. I prefer torquings them by 4 times to not overstress the head with one big shot.

 

[kevo1586]

For the head studs (part number 208-4305) we recommend using the ARP moly lube on the threads of the stud and on both sides of the washers. Please note that if any of the studs go into the waterjacket (which I believe on that application they do not) it is necessary to use a good automotive thread sealer on the threads that go into the block.

Thread the studs into the block hand tight only. Follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nuts to 60 ft. lbs. using the ARP moly lube. We do not recommend tightening the nuts in steps on the 10mm studs, as this can lead to torsional wrap up and inaccurate torque readings. We recommend taking the slack out of the nut (tighten to about 5 ft. lbs) and then as best possible making one continuous pull on the torque wrench to 60 ft. lbs.

Regards,

Zac

Sales and Tech

Automotive Racing Products

(800) 826-3045 ext. 206


that was directly from ARP, I called them and asked him to email the directions

 

[combz]

thank you. someone else actually called them and got the same info as me

 

[workforce90si]

good info guys we called ARP about it got the same info 20-40-60 did it last night

 

[kyle h.]

Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.

where did you read this at?

 

[Cyclohexane]

From a noobie who wants to build, thanks for the info +rep!

 

[Civichatch91]

So I have a question...Good Info btw but I have been having headgasket issues every since I installed my arp headstuds

it isn't like the headgasket would blow right away but every 5-6 month's I am replacing a headgasket and I am wondering if it could be linked to the arps.

My dad didn't know and actually double nutted the arp's into the block and used thread lock. Would that cause them to stretch over time and slowly allow it to leak until it finally blew out the HG?

 

[ddd4114]

How exactly did he double nut them?

 

[Civichatch91]

one nut upside down and one right side up wrench on the bottom and socket on the top to my understanding and then he pulled em off and rinse and repeat

 

[ddd4114]

I mean, how did he torque the studs? Did he install one nut with a socket, torque it, then install the second one on top with a wrench?

 

[Civichatch91]

no no, I only have one nut per stud, he just double nutted it to torque them into the block... like there wrench tight in the block and not hand tight as suggested by arp etc.

 

[ddd4114]

Oh, sorry, I thought you meant that you double nutted the studs in at the head and left it like that.

It's unnecessary to double nut them into the block, but it shouldn't hurt as long as you don't go crazy when you tighten them. I'd be more likely to blame a warped/cracked head or badly prepared mating surfaces if you're blowing head gaskets.

 

[drewmob]

good thread. i just got a set of arp head studs and wasn't sure on the torque technique.

 

[swich]

ok hand tight... they all the same bar 3 of them which sit higher then the rest by about 8mm. i tried get them in ferther with then allen key but about 1 turn was all they would do.

i have cleaned and retapped the holes. so it should all be go all the way. if i fit a stock head bolt goes all the way no problems.

ideas?

 

[mindless]

^wrong studs? What's the setup?

 

[Topher]

Im starting to think my headstuds just didnt go into the block enough but even at 65 they still felt like they could go alot more.

 

[hatchaddict]

i have the old style srp's without the allen top in them. when i installed them in the block i first made a thread chaser out of an old oem head bolt. then i chased all the holes and i put the studs in double nutted them with a wrench just till they stopped turning with one finger spinning the wrench. then i torqued them to 5lb and then straight to 60 but i used the new arp ultra torque lube which arp says is far better then the original moly lube went to gether nice and smooth

 

[swich]

^wrong studs? What's the setup?

spot on... the for the D16y and not the D16a/z... getting them swapped today.

and the other two... air lock.... long story.

 

[Rime.]

Good to know...here i always thought i was doing it right in 4-5 steps..:wacko:

Although I've never had a problem doing it that way I'll feel better now that i will be doing it to spec!