Okay, so this is to give people CORRECT 100% information straight from arp.
This information is from Al at arp, older guys, knows his stuff.
He says for head studs:
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.
I broke mine doing it in 10lbs increments. 12-22-32-42-54-68
he said you do not get accurate torque readings doing it this way, and if the studs will take it you can torque them down that way and not have the same clamping force as a straight 5-60 ft lbs straight torque in one step.
Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.
spread the word
This information is from Al at arp, older guys, knows his stuff.
He says for head studs:
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.
I broke mine doing it in 10lbs increments. 12-22-32-42-54-68
he said you do not get accurate torque readings doing it this way, and if the studs will take it you can torque them down that way and not have the same clamping force as a straight 5-60 ft lbs straight torque in one step.
Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.
spread the word