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i just installed my ARP's last friday...
i put the ARP molly-lube on all studs going into the block and the nuts, i torqued them all down to 20 foot pounds then, straight to 65, then i hit them all again to be sure...
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
yes clean out threads in the block thoroughly, like take brake cleaner and spray the holes, run a tap through if you have it..spray compressed air. there should be nothing inside those threads..if they budge while your torquing the nuts, you have to start over again, because now torque reading will be inaccurate.

lubricate them in the block.
 
I didnt read the entire thread because it is too long and i dont like to read lol but i fully built mine and i simply put them in and tightened straight to 60 lbs, personally i would not torque any more then that simply because it can make u very nervous. around 45 lbs i started to hear the bolt popping and that is not a good feeling at all. I have forged internals all the way and a +.20 overbore and i am doing fine on just 60 lbs....just thought i would lend a hand
 
i did mine yesterday morning at 22 then 49 on my b7 with a new felpro and it is holding fine not to mention stock studs got re-used for lack of a way to get new ones in a hurry. runs like a honda still so im happy :) good info though.
 
Just wanted to update this thread with some more info.

I went to 20ft/lbs and then straight to 68 ft/lbs on my Y8.
 
Ive got a set of ARP head studs that i want to put in my d15b. Now, is there any way i can remove the oem head bolts and put the arp headstuds in without having to take the head off and replacing the head gasket? Thanks in advance.
 
Ive got a set of ARP head studs that i want to put in my d15b. Now, is there any way i can remove the oem head bolts and put the arp headstuds in without having to take the head off and replacing the head gasket? Thanks in advance.
dont be lazy man :)

if you wanna use them just set it to tdc take the head off set the bolts replace the head gasket
 
After 8-10 heat cycles, how do you guys re-torque them?

Do you do back off them off a little and re-torque or do you just open the valve cover and re-torque them without backing them out a little?
 
just reinstalled mine. used arp moly lube on the block side bolts as well. used the allen key to get them in there snug. then put the head nuts on hand tight, then 15ft/lbs in sequence then right to 60ft/lbs in sequence. It's best to get a big long smooth torque rather then stopping, ratcheting back, and starting to torque again.

-Luke
 
Beyond the coast is not necessary, and even go 5-10ft lbs, is that an increase of 15.5 percent in tensile strength were tested in order to properly test your limits of elasticity of fingernails. Notice how he says thats 60 pounds m, 75% of their surface tension, that is to say 80 ft lbs is 100% of profits of 68 ft lbs is 85% of their income, which is 10% above their recommendation. and so on.
 
This is directly from ARP, I called them and asked him to email the directions

For the head studs (part number 208-4305) we recommend using the ARP moly lube on the threads of the stud and on both sides of the washers. Please note that if any of the studs go into the waterjacket (which I believe on that application they do not) it is necessary to use a good automotive thread sealer on the threads that go into the block.

Thread the studs into the block hand tight only. Follow the manufacturers torque sequence and tighten the nuts to 60 ft. lbs. using the ARP moly lube. We do not recommend tightening the nuts in steps on the 10mm studs, as this can lead to torsional wrap up and inaccurate torque readings. We recommend taking the slack out of the nut (tighten to about 5 ft. lbs) and then as best possible making one continuous pull on the torque wrench to 60 ft. lbs.

Regards,

Zac

Sales and Tech

Automotive Racing Products

(800) 826-3045 ext. 206
 
arp told me if i was to pulll my rods and replace the bearings i could just retorque them to spec and i will be fine as long as i don't stretch them past their torque specs.But for only 50.00 a set i think the reassurance of rplacing them when switching them from rod to rod would be worth the 50.Especially if it is a race engine.
 
arp told me if i was to pulll my rods and replace the bearings i could just retorque them to spec and i will be fine as long as i don't stretch them past their torque specs.But for only 50.00 a set i think the reassurance of rplacing them when switching them from rod to rod would be worth the 50.Especially if it is a race engine.
we are talking about head studs, not rod bolts
 
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