Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 112 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so this is to give people CORRECT 100% information straight from arp.

This information is from Al at arp, older guys, knows his stuff.

He says for head studs:
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.

I broke mine doing it in 10lbs increments. 12-22-32-42-54-68

he said you do not get accurate torque readings doing it this way, and if the studs will take it you can torque them down that way and not have the same clamping force as a straight 5-60 ft lbs straight torque in one step.

Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.

spread the word
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,036 Posts
good stuff for err-body to know. :td: I had the plan to do it in 2 or 3 steps anyways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
No big relevation here as it seems to be in line with the written directions...



And so the recommended sequence from Honda is as follows (note the 4th step is a repeat of step 3). So I would interprete this as 3 steps to 60ft-lbs (20-40-60) and then retorque the middle 2 bolts at 60 one last time.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,281 Posts
i personaly do it in 5lb inriements. starting at 45-50 all the way to 70.
just a personal prefference
 

·
10 second daily driver :)
Joined
·
3,238 Posts
Okay, so this is to give people CORRECT 100% information straight from arp.

This information is from Al at arp, older guys, knows his stuff.

He says for head studs:
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.

I broke mine doing it in 10lbs increments. 12-22-32-42-54-68

he said you do not get accurate torque readings doing it this way, and if the studs will take it you can torque them down that way and not have the same clamping force as a straight 5-60 ft lbs straight torque in one step.

Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.

spread the word
uhh every one should already knows how to do this and if they dont they are retarded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
the fact is..some of you guys are saying personal preference,but to use personal preference is against what arp says to do. And i also have a helms manual and have done it the way that it reccomends, however these are for ARP studs, not stock honda bolts as it says do not use the stock torque specification. you dont torque them the same as the instructions say for head bolts from honda(in steps, however use the same sequence obviosuly). Thats why i made this post. Notice how no where does it say on the arp sheet that sql civic posted to torque them in steps?

Please do not take my word for it, call ARP they are the ones who make the studs, not honda.

800.826.3045

and use the specified torque value they give you. Going over that rating is not needed, and even going 5-10ft lbs over, is like a 5-15 percent increase in the tensile strength they were tested to, so your in fact testing the limits of the yeild strength of the bolts. Note how it says thats 60 ft lbs is 75% of their yeild strength, that means 80 ft lbs is 100% of their yield, i 68 ft lbs is 85% of their yeild, which is 10% over their recommendation. and so on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
how many times can they be re-used?

i will call and ask al today, and post back, as to try to provide more information in the thread directly from them..not personal opinions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,322 Posts
I did mine in a 3-step sequence of 45-55-65. This reminds me, it has been around 10 heat cycles now...time to re-torque!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
the fact is..some of you guys are saying personal preference,but to use personal preference is against what arp says to do. And i also have a helms manual and have done it the way that it reccomends, however these are for ARP studs, not stock honda bolts as it says do not use the stock torque specification. you dont torque them the same as the instructions say for head bolts from honda(in steps, however use the same sequence obviosuly). Thats why i made this post. Notice how no where does it say on the arp sheet that sql civic posted to torque them in steps?

Please do not take my word for it, call ARP they are the ones who make the studs, not honda.

800.826.3045

and use the specified torque value they give you. Going over that rating is not needed, and even going 5-10ft lbs over, is like a 5-15 percent increase in the tensile strength they were tested to, so your in fact testing the limits of the yeild strength of the bolts. Note how it says thats 60 ft lbs is 75% of their yeild strength, that means 80 ft lbs is 100% of their yield, i 68 ft lbs is 85% of their yeild, which is 10% over their recommendation. and so on.
The fact is that ARP are experts in bolt manufacturing not engine assembly. They make fasteners for many, many automotive and industrial applications. I think the ARP instructions are not wrong regarding the steps but were just omitted. Torqueing down a head (or loosening them for that matter) in one step is likely to cause warping - I don't care whose bolts or studs are used.

Other than that, I agree that exceeding the recommended torque or making up your own personal torque step sequence without any real metallurgical or mechanical basis just makes no sense.
 
1 - 20 of 112 Posts
Top