[Sammo115]

^^
Its alot easier then what you'd expect haha. I was scared as shit when trying to do this but ends up being alot more simple then id imagine.

If your worried if things might get lost or you wont remember where things went, just take pictures of the process of everything you take apart.

 

[rugimpy]

Hi all. So I attempted to remove and replace my ISB and seal yesterday but failed horribly. I used this thread as a guide and read around quite a bit before attempting it. I have pulled a tranny before but never opened it up. All seemed to go well but now that its put back together it seems I only have 3rd and 4th gear. I read something about the interlock but cant find anything else on it. Any thoughts? Any help would be appreciated. And im not putting any blame on this guide. It was quite extensive and helped so much. Thanks!

 

[Aquafina]

Pull the interlock guide bolt out and look into the hole. It should be open. If you see a dent on the metal through the hole, split the trans and replace the shift assembly.

 

[rugimpy]

Ok, I will pull the bolt as soon as I can pull the tranny. When you say open though, what should that look like? And if there is a dent I have to buy a new shift assembly? What happened to need a new one? Thanks!

 

[Aquafina]

When you look into the hole the shift assembly should not be blocking it (you can see through the hole in the assembly). If there is a dent then the IGB dented and deformed it.

 

[rugimpy]

Oh ok. I will take a look. What should I do differently next time to avoid this?

 

[kenny8585]

Look great and i read almost everything and that alots of work..

 

[2004 Civic LX Coupe]

Same Problem

I own a ...well i guess my screen name says it. Anyway i have the same problem only i dont know anything but basic stuff. If i take my car to a mechanic what am i looking at in parts and labor?

 

[xylocramer]

750 million yen.

 

[Areem57]

I feel bad for the internet "techs" who have to read through all these ridicules questions, when if the person actually took the time to read though every page or at least the whole write-up, then we wouldn't be sitting here on page 9. Quarter of the people are asking what part number is for THIER car! This write-up is very good, if read through enough times an amature SHOULD be able to replace the bearing without much question.

 

[jermykata]

nice one ! ISB = the bearing that sits with the shaft that goes from tranny 2 engine ?? (the shaft you ducktaped)
im about 2 change the bearing the hold that shaft.. thing that what is makin noise ... sounds like throw out bearing.. but cant be.. just replazed that one with a good one..

extremely awesome post!! great pictures and everything!!!!

 

[Steve from Ohio]

I know this is a pretty old thread. But I may have some information that may help.

First, if you are replacing the main shaft bearing, then do both of them. There are two. One in the bell housing and the other in the transmission cover.

The grinding noise is sometimes either one or both bearings. My 1991 Honda CRX HF was starting to make all kinds of terrible noises after 375,000 miles. I was getting quotes of $1,000 and higher to pull the transmission and replace only one of the bearings. So I decided to do it myself.

I went to the local Honda dealership to get the bearing that is in the bellhousing. That is the smaller of the two bearings. It costs around $25. I took the transmission apart and found that the usual bearing that goes bad was not the one. It was the one in the transmission cover. That bearing had some pretty bad pitting and was making all the noise. Like a grinding whining sound. That bearing is $35. I wish I would have bought both at the same time as it took a day to get each.

Make sure you take pictures of the transmission as you take it apart as it is easy to forget where things go.

I also recommend changing the clutch, throw out bearing and flywheel as you have to take them all off anyways.

I would also recommend changing all the seals including the rear crankshaft seal behind the flywheel and the axle shaft seals.

When you take the square drive cover bolt out of the case, (the one that has the clip you need to spread apart to get the case off the bellhousing), if it does not come out easily, just heat it a bit with a propane torch. It will then come out really easy and there is nothing in the area that will get damaged by heat. Don't overheat it as it takes just a little bit of heat to break it loose.

Don't use a hammer anywhere on your transmission. It is aluminum and will crack if hit the wrong way.

Make sure before you pull up and out the complete gear sets that you understand where each part goes. You can pull out all the parts and keep them together but if you just happen to allow them to fall apart, you will have a learning experience on your hands. A good manual may be needed if you have your gear set fall apart on you. But don't be afraid. Just be careful. When put together, the gears should mesh quietly and not grind at all. It should be very smooth. If it is not, then you've got something not in the right place.

I wore heavy leather gloves when pulling and replacing the gear sets. Those edges of the gears are sharp. So be careful.

I also must warn you about the shift mechanism. It can be a very tough thing to get to fall into place as there is one part of it that holds the other parts of the shift forks at bay when shifting and the little nub must fall into the notches. You will be putting in and pulling out the complete gear set several times to get it to fall into place just right. You will see what I mean when you do it!

Don't forget to clean the magnet!

I also recommend making sure that you support the transmission with a couple of pieces of wood on the bench. If you don't, the main shaft will not be able to be set into the position it is supposed to be in. I learned that the hard way as I could not figure out for a while why the main shaft would not go down as far as it was supposed to. Duhhhh!

I used in the past 10w 30 oil and a little bit of Lucas oil stabilizer. That seemed to really quiet down the transmission. I used that when I first got the car and it seemed to work pretty well. That Lucas stuff is the stuff that is at your local auto parts store with the little plastic gears showing how well the oil sticks to the gears.

I saved a ton by doing it myself and I would say that it is not a job for someone with no experience. If you can do simple mechanical work, then if you take your time, read up on it and then go for it.

 

[Steve from Ohio]

I own a ...well i guess my screen name says it. Anyway i have the same problem only i dont know anything but basic stuff. If i take my car to a mechanic what am i looking at in parts and labor?

Around $1000 to $1500 but it can be found to be cheaper if you look around. I got quotes for a pulled transmission to replace the input shaft bearing from $225 to $600. They will take advantage of anyone who doesn't know what they are doing. The parts for me were $78. It took me just a few hours to get everything ready in the transmission to get it ready to put back on the car.

The pulling of the transmission is a bit of work along with tearing apart the transmission. I recommend putting in a new clutch, TO bearing and flywheel as you already have the thing apart.

Here is a list of what has to be done

You've got to:
Remove air cleaner
Remove the battery and battery holder base
Pull the front wheels
Remove the brakes
Pop the lower ball joints loose
Remove the front stabilizer attached to the lower control arm on the passenger side
Pull both drive shafts
Pull the distributor
Pull the starter motor
Remove the exhaust from the manifold (at least on my CRX)
Remove the three motor mounts that are attached to the transmission
Remove the speedometer cable
Remove the clutch cable or clutch hydraulic actuator
Remove the shifter control rod and stabilizer
Remove the transmission's 5 bolts and drop down to work on
Remove throw out bearing
Clean up transmission while together...spray with Simple green or engine cleaner...make sure you plug up the drive shaft holes so no water gets in
Remove 13 bolts that hold the case to the bell housing
Use a 3/8 inch breaker bar to remove the square hole plug at the back of the transmission..if it is hard to get off, then heat lightly and it will come loose.
Spread the clip to get the case off the bell housing
Remove reverse sensor
Remove the gears all at once in one piece unless you want to figure out how it goes back together
Remove old and Install new input shaft bearings...both of them along with new seals wherever they are needed
Inspect rest of transmission for any damage or unusual wear or hot spots
Clean up magnet!
Using Grey RTV sealant, put cover back onto bell housing
Remove pressure plate
Remove clutch plate
Remove Flywheel
Remove and replace rear crankshaft seal
Install new Flywheel
Install new clutch plate
Install new pressure plate
Re install transmission
Re install clutch cable or hydraulic clutch actuator
Re install CV drive shafts
Re install brakes
Re install passenger side front lower control support bar
Re install exhaust at the front by engine
Re install wheels
Re install starter motor
Re install air cleaner
Re install batter mount and battery
Re install distributor...set timing
Adjust clutch pedal
See if you have any parts left over...if you do, spend another couple of hours trying to figure out where they go!

I am sure I may have missed something. Also figure on time to get the parts.

So if you think $1000 is expensive, it is but it is also a lot of work to do it right. I would say that if you have any mechanical ability at all, do it. If not, then you will be at the mercy of those that do. Just get several quotes as pricing varies from dealer to dealer and mechanic to mechanic.

 

[transzex]

Hey Steve form oHio, you might wanna check on who has this forum covered and posted some of the info you have respewed.

Thanks for being a student of mine, you can cut and paste info like no other!

 

[Steve from Ohio]

Hey Steve form oHio, you might wanna check on who has this forum covered and posted some of the info you have respewed.

Thanks for being a student of mine, you can cut and paste info like no other!

Yes...thank you for all the information.
Your postings have helped me to do this and I appreciate it very much!

I have not messed with a standard transmission before and your posts were a godsend.

Thanks again.

 

[Steve from Ohio]

Bearing part numbers for input shaft

Here are the official parts numbers for the bearings for the input shaft for a 1991 Honda CRX HF. There are two of them, each different.

The bearing that is in the bell housing is part number 91002-PHR-003
That is the 26x52x15 bearing. The cost is around $25

The bearing that is at the end of the input shaft that sits in the transmission cover is part number 91004-PL3-A03 It is the larger of the two bearings. The cost is around $30.

If you have a grinding noise in the transmission while idling, then it is probably one or both of these bearings.

Note: These are for the Honda CRX HF. Any other transmission will probably have different parts numbers and different bearings. The SI transmission I have been told has different bearings than the HF.

 

[BeerDrinkin]

750 million yen.

Luckily that's only like $3.62USD

 

[BeerDrinkin]

Here are the official parts numbers for the bearings for the input shaft for a 1991 Honda CRX HF. There are two of them, each different.

The bearing that is in the bell housing is part number 91002-PHR-003
That is the 26x52x15 bearing. The cost is around $25

The bearing that is at the end of the input shaft that sits in the transmission cover is part number 91004-PL3-A03 It is the larger of the two bearings. The cost is around $30.

If you have a grinding noise in the transmission while idling, then it is probably one or both of these bearings.

Note: These are for the Honda CRX HF. Any other transmission will probably have different parts numbers and different bearings. The SI transmission I have been told has different bearings than the HF.

This is correct. The Si has a 40mm bearing vs the 35mm bearing.

 

[Foxcow]

Thank you to the original poster for making this write up. Major rep!


I do, however, have one question that someone asked but was never answered in this thread. If you get the growling noise from the transmission whether the clutch is pushed in or not, is it still the ISB?

 

[Steve from Ohio]

Thank you to the original poster for making this write up. Major rep!


I do, however, have one question that someone asked but was never answered in this thread. If you get the growling noise from the transmission whether the clutch is pushed in or not, is it still the ISB?

It could be then both the throw out bearing and the input shaft bearings. Replace all three. It could also be the other bearings on the secondary gear shaft. The way to tell is to spin the bearings at the top near the lock nut and listen if they make any noise. Check the roller bearings in the case also as they may be damaged. All bearings should be smooth and silent. I replaced all my bearings just to be sure.

The bearings sometimes get scarred from just wear and loose metal getting into the bearings causing them to make a growling noise as you stated. The only time the throw out bearing is moving is when the clutch is pushed in.