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My y7 to y8 Intake Manifold Swap (pics)

505K views 709 replies 184 participants last post by  mattliston  
#1 · (Edited)
Ok Boys & Girls, So I finally had a chance to work on my Civic.
I swapped my y7 Intake Manifold to the y8 Intake Manifold that I got.
I was just waiting on a couple of parts and TIME so I can do this.

Thanks to this Sticky,
Swapping a y8 intake manifold onto a y7 - D-series.org
I followed some of the Handy Steps and figured the Rest out.

Allow me to show you what I did.

Step #1 - Safety! You will need to go under the Car to Remove a Bolt
and to Drain the Radiator a little bit, so use a Jack Stand
and Chock the Rear Wheels. (you can use a ramp) Also don't Smoke
while messing with Your Fuel System and don't forget your Safety Glasses.
Refer to your Owner's Manual for Additional help.

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And here are some Parts I got
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Here is what we looked like before
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In the Car, I Removed the Fuel Pump Fuse and try to Start
the Car to Relief some Fuel Pressure.
(if your car turns on, you removed the wrong Fuse)
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Disconnected the Battery and Removed my Intake
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Removed the Throttle Cable from the Throttle Body alone with it's Bracket
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Even though I know there's no Pressure on the Fuel System,
I covered the Fuel Filter so I can Remove to Banjo Bolt
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#2 · (Edited)
Before I started Disconnecting Clips and Hoses, I used tape
and Labeled what goes where. Sensors Connections,
Hoses & Fuel Injectors 1 2 3 4 (masking tape works better)
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Disconnected another fuel line
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Carefully Pulled the Fuel Rail.
The Injector seals might stay on the Head, pull them out
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Put it in a clean spot (I'll get to it later)
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Next, since I know pulling some of these Hoses will splash,
I Drained the Radiator in a Clean Plastic Container (not too much)
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Used Paper Towels to cover where the Fuel Injectors sit
and started to pull some Water Hoses and Vacuum Hoses
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#3 · (Edited)
I Removed the Intake Manifold Bolts and I got under the Car
to get to that Bracket that's Bolted under the Intake Manifold
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I pulled the Pcv Valve off the Black Box (under) and the
Intake Manifold came right off.
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Removed the Intake Manifold Bracket (no longer useful)
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Next, Removed Throttle Body
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Removed the evap solenoid and will be relocated onto the Fuel Rail
(I'll get to that later)
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#4 · (Edited)
Here are the both Intake Manifolds.
y8 Intake Manifold and y7 Intake Manifold

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Another Pic from the Back

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Removed the Bolts where the Fuel Rail sits.
Put the Fuel Injector Seal and used the y7 Fuel Rail
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
DO NOT USE Y8 FUEL INJECTORS!
YOU WILL RUN TOO RICH!

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This is the Difference from the y7 Fuel Rail and y8 Fuel Rail.
I will use the y8 Fuel Rail with the y7 Fuel Injectors
but for now the y7 Fuel Rail will work.
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It works good, just the only thing is that the evap solenoid doesn't sit flat...
On the y8 Fuel Rail, it does.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Now, here is a y8 throttle Body and the y7 Throttle Body.
There are a couple of ways you can do this but I decided
to use the y7 Throttle Body but the Rotor won't work so
I swapped Rotors only.
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So now I have a y7 Throttle Body with a y8 Throttle Body Rotor.
Make sure you put the New Throttle Body Gasket.
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My Luck the Intake Manifold Gasket stayed on the Head.
I hate when that happens! Sprayed some Gasket Remover
to soften the Gasket and came off good but I still had to use
a blade to clean the Surface Better. Use new Intake Manifold Gasket.
(make sure you cover your Intake Ports with some Paper Towels)
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Now to start putting this thing in.
I Replaced the Pcv Valve and put a new Hose and Ran that up.
I ran another Hose from the Water bypass Pipe nipple (piece of Red Hose) and connected that one to the IACV on the Throttle Body. From the IACV I ran another hose from the other nipple of the IACV and connect it to the Nipple of the Big Water Hose that connects on the Intake Manifold.
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I went ahead and Removed the Old Fuel Filter and Replaced it
with a New one. New Fuel Filters should come with new washers,
Use them. Also use 2 Wrenches to Tighten it up.
(MAKE SURE YOU COVER THE POSITIVE POST OF YOUR BATTERY.
YOU MIGHT TOUCH IT WITH A WRENCH AND GROUND IT)
(FUEL + SPARK = FAIL)
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#6 · (Edited)
Now to the Throttle Cable. I used the Same one for the y7.
You could swap to a y8 Throttle Cable if you want
(it's shorter and they say you get better Throttle response (I'll swap later))
Here is the y7 Throttle Cable Bracket. You can't use it here so use two 12mm open end Wrenches to remove Bracket.

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Here is the Bracket for the y8 IM. Slide Cable in and from the Rotor, adjust so it fits not too tight and not too loose (you will get an idle issue if you don't get it on correctly).

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All the Connections Reach without modifications.
The trick I did was cut the Black Tape and Wire Loom to give
all the Wires some Slack to reach all the Sensors and Fuel Injectors.
And Here's my y8 Intake Manifold Swap

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New Ex Intake Pic on Post #47
(Edited from Post #47)
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And here is what's Left from the Swap :biggrin:
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Put the Fuel Pump Fuse back on and Turned the Car on.
Also added some coolant to the Radiator and Reserve.
Went for a Test Drive and came Back to check for Leaks. Nothing.

No Idle Issue whats so ever!


Check Engine Light came on for a While (for like 500 miles of Daily Driving)
and Turned off on it's own

Hope it helps people that what to do this. I'm Happy!
 
#11 ·
Very nice swap and write up man. That mani looks sooo much beefier!
 
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#14 ·
Thanks.
nice one! we get about 7-8kw increase here in sa ;)
now you can fit a strut brace
Strut Brace? I'd like that. Maybe when I order a Intake, I'll get one along with it. Thanks.
I noticed a good little bump in power, not immensely but it definitely loves pulling hard now. Mine has had a bit of minor port work though (still has the necessary anti-reversion steps though, i checked) so it is a bit more of a top end boost too. more power all around it feels like.
Cool. I'll give her a good Stretch later today and see how it feels. I've been waiting to do this swap for some time already, Finally. Let's see what I do next :biggrin:
 
#13 ·
I noticed a good little bump in power, not immensely but it definitely loves pulling hard now. Mine has had a bit of minor port work though (still has the necessary anti-reversion steps though, i checked) so it is a bit more of a top end boost too. more power all around it feels like.
 
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#16 ·
I hate the stock IM, just by looking at them you can tell how restrictive they are. Now i have 2 of them and i don't want them and nobody else does either. could cut the runners off and use the flanges though LOL
 
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#23 ·
Nice DIY!!! :punk:

Just a hint :poke: You don't need to change fuel rails because they are the same...
 
#24 ·
Good job Putaso... I mean, Pata. This shot be in the DIY section. This is a well written thread.
 
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#32 ·
Putaso? :8: LMAO!

I couldn't find pics any where when I was doing my Research. That Link was more than Helpful for me but we needed Pics.
Good job, looks good, and probably feels good.
Thanks Fooker.
My y7 is Completely Stock! At first I wasn't really impressed with the Results but it does feel better though. It Sounds good. With the Cold Air I'm going to put it should sound and feel better.
 
#43 ·
Nice write-up Pata. I'm sure many will appreciate your hard work to share your efforts.

I ran the Y7 throttle cable for a while and later swapped in a Y8 cable. I bought a Y8 cable bracket new and was able to secure it properly. It was cheap. The Y8 cable is shorter and fits in the engine bay a little better but overall it didn't add a whole lot of noticable throttle response.

One thing to consider is using a Hondata insulating IM gasket. Besides having the benefit of insulating heat from the head you also can reuse it and it's easier to remove. It's about $35 though.
 
#45 ·
You better! LOL :bigok: get that engine breathing a little healthier. I would try to locate a Y8 exhaust manifold though, you can usually find those for cheap. I don't like the Y7 exhaust manifold either. but that is just me. My car has beautiful midrange for a 1.6L sedan with an auto. need a 5 speed though :(
 
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