Dont RTV the intake manifold.

Buy the gasket which is nearly the same price

 

The cruise control suction on the back of the manifold bottom right corner if looking at it from the port holes

 

So I've must of read this thread a 20 some times and I still have a few questions, is this thread dead or is there someone who's done it and still around if petas still around great please let me know, so I have a 99 hatch, y7 (obviously) and what I'm 99.99% sure is a 96-98 y8 mani fold (no Cold assist holes of weird nipple coming out the top) and I that the y8 throttle body but missing parts.

I'm dead set on using my Known good working y7 throttle body
So if someone can answer these few questions

-What gasket do I use for the intake manifold to mount to a y7 block (not sure if gasket are different to the y7)

-if using my y7 throttle body and gasket do I get 99 y7 or 98 y8
(I am aware I have to swap the rotor over from the y8 manifold and use the y8 throttle bracket)

-how does the throttle body mount properly

-does jb weld and a screw work to cover the cc nipple or any suggestions

-any Suggestions on how to properly paint the manifold (I bought but silver ,cars black so I like the suttle stock look

-I have the y8 fuel rail and injectiers do I just swap over my y7 injectors with new seals or is there a special way of doing it??

 

So I've must of read this thread a 20 some times and I still have a few questions, is this thread dead or is there someone who's done it and still around if petas still around great please let me know, so I have a 99 hatch, y7 (obviously) and what I'm 99.99% sure is a 96-98 y8 mani fold (no Cold assist holes of weird nipple coming out the top) and I that the y8 throttle body but missing parts.

I'm dead set on using my Known good working y7 throttle body
So if someone can answer these few questions

-What gasket do I use for the intake manifold to mount to a y7 block (not sure if gasket are different to the y7)

-if using my y7 throttle body and gasket do I get 99 y7 or 98 y8
(I am aware I have to swap the rotor over from the y8 manifold and use the y8 throttle bracket)

If you are using an automatic y8 intake manifold on a y7, it is all plug and play except a few hoses and the throttle cable, you can use either intake manifold gasket or TB gasket.

-how does the throttle body mount properly

-does jb weld and a screw work to cover the cc nipple or any suggestions

I dont know what you are asking here.

-I have the y8 fuel rail and injectiers do I just swap over my y7 injectors with new seals or is there a special way of doing it??

Just make sure you are using the y7 injectors and they are sealing properly.

 

if your idle screw is gone, then that port is completely clogged up. fix it.

 

Wait, the idle screw being too far open? Mine is nonexistent.... Please elaborate on this being a vacuum issue?

Just concerned about my car not tryna jack

 

that hole leads to the IACV. so perhaps you have a clogged IACV that is stuck open.

 

I wonder if he forgot about the small vacuum port that is on the bottom corner nearest brake booster.

I used a vac line and put a screw inside to block it

 

3pin IACV is your factory d16y7 idle air control valve on bottom of throttlebody. honda calls it something else, perhaps rotary air valve.

you need to bleed your coolant if covering the IACV hole solves it and no further damage is noticed.

IF the throttlebody gasket was good.

IF your throttlecable is adjusted properly (y7 cable is much longer and easily forgotten to be routed so cable inside doesnt stick))

 

Gotcha! it has a new Y7 TB gasket. I bleed the coolant all weekend and the surging is now only between 1000-1500 rpm and the idle is at 1500 rpm. but I'm stuck on why its still surging now.

 

are you using a y8 manifold from a manual transmission vehicle?

if so, block the IACV ports on back of plenum.

if an auto manifold, then the issue is with your y7 throttlebody. Maybe you bumped the 3pin IACV on the bottom there and cracked it or perhaps it was loose and simply you are noticing it more

 

I'm using an auto manifold. 3pin IACV? I'm a noob could you elaborate a little more please? i don't think its cracked, it all was done within 2 hours, i removed and placed it on the y8 IM and connected everything how it was said in the 1st page but i noticed the vacuum leak coming from that hole within the TB and once i put my finger on it the surging idle stops

 

i have a vacuum leak coming from that hole right there, any ideas what i can do to fix it?

 

Lol Pata, I thought you didn't come here often? Must have heard me calling your name in the COP thread. Lol.

To add to the above, it's more about balance than it is about peak really. Basically Goldilocks...

The best setup is when all the pieces converge at the same point and increase in synergy; bring out the best aspect rather than scrambling to make up for where it lacks...

 

This thread is teh shet :3dbiggrin:

 

hey, a good write up always inspires conversation and discussion lol

you should be happy :fingersx:

 

Actually the piping does affect the torque.. longer smaller pipes --> resonance in lower frequency/rpm causes better cylinder filling in those RPM.. shorter wider pipes --> resonance in higher RPM causes better filling of the cylinder. There is a pressure wave arriving and putting a little extra air into the cylinder before the intake valve closes.. The resonance chamber and even that little plastic chamber in the intake tube from the air filter to the TB are also not just there to make it quieter but surely also to cause some Helmholtz resonance effects. As I said, this is surely not as noticeable as supercharging the engine by other means (turbo, compressor), but the effect is there. In addition to that, the diameter of the piping surely affects the resonance frequency AND the flow speed (and resistance) for different RPM ranges.
That's why I asked whether you had installed the resonator chamber and the U-tube. I even noticed the difference on my shitty D14 because it had less power in low RPMs without them..

 

On the exact same motor setup in the past, Ive done a filter right on the throttlebody, then 3" diameter cold air intake full length, then a 2.5" short ram


all 3 had different response, but still went around town and on the highway in nearly the same manner. the short ram and cold air both saw the same drag strip on the same night and got within 0.02 of each other. waaayyyy inside margin of error.


again, response difference. you will not notice EVER half a horsepower to as much as 3. but you will notice response at times.

 

of course 3rd gear 60mph+ is gonna feel better. the y8 manifold improves high rpm power quite a bit over the bottleneck of the y7.

but Im interested in midrange until I am manual, y8 head, and tuned.

until then, gas mileage will suffice for helping me save money and get around town, where I live and work

 

air tubes dont change your power when you are on stock compression and stock assemblies.

you are noticing a response difference. 2.5" tubing is a good rule of thumb on a D series. very tiny response loss in the high rpms, but usually solid midrange response.

its a stock Y7 with a y8 intake of course, ebay header, and now ebay exhaust due to the 20 year old exhaust finally rattling itself to death.


The plan is to revert to an oem muffler so I can hear myself think, and go back to the y7 manifold so I can get more miles per gallon.

 

you know when I did my swap to a better manifold on my y7. I had did my tranny swap at the time I did feel the mid range was a lot better. my wife called it my semi fast car. we took it on a trip to Wyoming and man did the little cam scream though the turns. 70-80 mph in 3 and 4th grear. she love pushing that thing through corners I was exited and scared at the same time. lol. possibly because you had an automatic.?

 

Weird.. even on my tiny D14 it produced better power/torque in lower RPMs.. :???: I wonder..
What exhaust manifold, throttle body and intake air tube (from airbox to TB) are you running? And did you install the Y8 resonator and U-tube?

I already had a OEM Z6 exhaust manifold (stock D14 has the D15B7 4-1 header) before I added the Y8 intake manifold and it improved again in all RPMs.. :???:

 

out with the Y7 and in with the Y8

okay it been awhile I finally complete my swap for VTEC and wanted to share a quick photo

 

my mileage went down in both city and on highway.

 

The first 115miles of hwy I was getting 36mpg... Now I'm in city. Its less but will wait til refill to find out how much city mpg will be.

 

d16y8 intake manifold has removed a lot of hillclimbing power. granted I am still on a y7 auto tranny. gas mileage went down over 2mpg (its a daily, it matters)

Will be going back to the y7 intake, and saving the y8 intake for when I do my mild high compression build combined with a manual swap

 

d16y8 intake manifold has removed a lot of hillclimbing power.

Are you sure of that? Did you install the Y8 resonator chamber and U-tube?

Because when I did the swap on my D14 (has only 90hp stock) back in 2012 and left them out at first, it still seemed to be a little weak in low to mid RPMs (but in no way worse than it was before the manifold swap! ).. then after adding the resonator and U-tube it had an overall better performance..
The 'loss' in power in the low RPMs had supposedly been caused by changed resonance in the overall shorter intake system (which is better for high RPMs, but worse for the low ones)..

I can't really find anything on that topic in English because I don't know what the correct term is, but at least there's some 2 sentences on Wikipedia in the second paragraph of the "Performace" section here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airbox
..length of the snorkel bla bla..

 

I did my swap a while ago and had some lingering idle bounce. It ended being the throttle body was sticking closed. Every time I got in the car the the throttle pedal needed a good punch to get it unstuck. I adjusted the throttle body stop and its running perfectly now.

cliff notes:

make sure your throttle body stop is adjusted properly after doing the rotor swap.

 

haha..got me on that one! thanks for the correction

 

You're better off saving the money if you want a V-TECH..

..because all you would get from the other head is VTEC.

 

Looks good man! I plan on Swapping my head this weekend so I can get my V-tech

 

All is grand. Everything fixed. Here's my pix contribution.

 

All is grand. Everything fixed.

What was the problem?