very nice product and install man!

reducing parasitic loss is a great thing

how much $$ and how much power? haha

 

Picked it up used for $200 New they are $400 Meziere says 3-7 HP since the motor already makes 238WHP I would hope its a 7HP gain but who knows the motor is getting torn apart I think a head stud stripped and blew a HG after i got it together.

Redline of the engine is 9250 so a regular water pump has cavitation at high RPM. Not to mention the last Type R pump only lasted about 25k miles before the bearing failed and started to squeal.

 

Just wondering, wouldn't it be better to put the pump on the back of the motor(between the original water pump and t-stat)? That way, it's not pushing against the T-stat and would still circulate fluid in the engine even though the t-stat is closed.

 

I would agree but I did not design it. Instructions are to drill 2 4mm holes in the thermo to allow coolant through when closed.

 

I really wish they made a block off plate for the D series. I need one of these.

 

just cut the stock water pump impellers or w/e they are called

 

what u trying to block off?

 

The water pump/idler pulley setup they have. I would need one of those. Or as mentioned, I guess I could try and cut the impellers off.

 

Wouldn't the only difference between this and a d-series would be the radiator hose sizes (which it looks like you can change out the fittings on the pump) and the water pump replacement being different? I always wanted to do a electric water pump setup, mainly because you can use the pump to adjust the water temp (just remove the thermostat) by turning it up or down (I've seen some that have speed control, but that one looks like it's just on or off).

 

You can have the pump go too fast as well.

If the coolant is moving through all the ports too fast to pick up any heat so the water temp may be lower but the heat is staying in the block.

 

Not true. You can get more consistant temp control

 

Yeah just cut them off with a small dremel wheel, make sure to smooth it all out and I see no reason to have a dummy pump made by them since a stock one is more then enough to just hold belt tension.

Wonder how much power this would gain on a stock-ish d.....prob not enough to warrant the money haha

 

Wonder how much power this would gain on a stock-ish d.....prob not enough to warrant the money haha

Prolly comparable to removing the Ac or Ps or maybe less

 

You still need a restrictor, or a PWM control that is related to temp.

 

I know this but since I just pulled the $7000 Engine apart because it over heated and warped the block .005" and the head .003" I did not feel like worrying about climbing temps. Car is only driven in the summer anyhow not normally in cold crappy rain.

Engine was in pieces last Tuesday assembled Wednesday 20 min. break in Thursday and a 325Mile road trip Friday morning. I was being Over cautious on temps

 

Keeping the engine too cold is just as bad. If you still have problems with maintaining operating temps, try rerouting the pump(maybe grab a spare waterneck to do this) so that it is between the old waterpump and thermostat. This will allow you to use a stock thermostat and you don't need PWM control or possibly even a restrictor.

 

I plan on putting a OEM thermo in I had so many over heat issues prior to the pump install I was afraid of screwing it up again.

Idle its 190F and when the weather is warmer its about 160-170F at freeway speeds. I assume the full size type R radiator in the EG chassis helps keep it extra cool.

 

170f is a little on the low side, people say optimum temp for a motor is 85-90c or 185-195F

if you had a full thermostat in there it would increase the temp a little to be more towards the optimum

 

Yes I know I have the thermo ready to go in but cam seals need replaced first leaking oil on the Tbelt