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JDM D13B4 with D16Y8 head

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18K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  Miguel_Honda  
#1 ·
hey guys im new to this site and new to the honda world but not tuning. i got an idea and i want to get some feed back and maybe some advice. im a US Marine currently stationed in Iwakuni, Japan and i just bought a 96 Honda Civic EK2 hatch with a d13b4 in it. until i actually bought the car i didnt even know that this motor ever existed. after some research i have found that the bore and stroke is almost square at 75mm x 76mm with a c/r of 9.75:1 making it a very revy motor. I just want to get more bang under the hood without busting the bank. as far as i know the d13b4 and d15b's share a block, same bore and deck height (207mm) and i believe a d16y8 head runs great on a d15 block. with that being said how would a d16y8 head run on my d13b4 block? also if this is even possible, what extra stuff would i need to look at ie a dizzy, ecu, fuel rail and so on?
 
#2 · (Edited)
First off, welcome to DSO and thank you for serving our country.

The d13's are rev happy little guys, but I personally would not build one myself. The big difference between the d13's and the d15's is the stroke. The d13b4 having a 76mm stroke and the d15b having a 90mm stroke. So no matter what head you use on that d13 block you're not going to be make any torque at all really if you go all motor. But then again it might make a peppy little turbo car on low boost. I don't know if there are any aftermarket rods and pistons for that block in Japan or not. I know here in the states it's a no go.

If you take a look at my sig I have a compression calculator you can use to plug in your numbers to see what different variations you can come up with.

I did a little bit of research for you, and with the info I found and the info you provided it looks like using a y8 head on that d13 block is probably not a good idea. Here is what I was able to find, not sure how accurate it is so you might want to double check.

d13b4 block: 75.00mm bore, 207.00mm DH
D13b4 crank: 76.00mm
D16Y8 head (milled .004in for flatness): 32.80cc
D13b4 pistons: 5.00cc dome, 30.80mm Compression height
d13b4 rods: 134.00mm
d16y8 HG: .028in

You will have lost a lot of compression going from 9.75:1 to around 7.85:1, that is WAY to low IMHO even for a boosted car. I would say that combustion chamber on the y8 is much larger than the combustion chamber on the d13b4. I would probably keep the d13 head and see what you can do to pep it up some, bigger cam, P&P ect... Hope this helps, and good luck!
 
#17 ·
I would like to see some proof of this, it seems that the stock combustion chamber volume of d13b4 is 22 ?

D13b4 is the same engine as the first d13a1, except d13a1 was single carb and b4 is mpfi...

I know at least 3 or 4 built d13 NA with some good numbers on the track...

example

1st one


with d16z6 head 131hp



I really dont think that the head chamber is that short because pistons are pretty doomed...
 
#3 ·
How about doing essentially doing a d15 in a d13 block ie. d15 crank pm3 pistons and rods with the y8 head? I should see about an 11:1 c/r. But will this tiny motor explode, I don't know. I am also considering doing arp studs and about 5 lbs of boost.
 
#11 ·
out here getting parts is kinda of expensive because of the exchange rate (yen to dollar) being about 76 to 1. About 2 years ago it was 120 to 1 and everything was super cheap. so when i order parts i buy online and have it shipped to my po box. im not sure how expensive a whole d15 swap would be but im sure just internals would be cheaper. also why do a whole d15 swap if my intention is to put a d16y8 head on top? i would instead do a d16 swap.
 
#13 ·
ok so update... i have found a donor car here in japan. its a 1996 ek-3 civic hatch VTI with a d15b 3 stage vtec (only reason i knew right away was because of two vtec solenoids). the car was wrecked but only minor chassis damage and some cosmetic. I have to get the car towed to my house because with all the chassis damage the altenator pulley is sitting on the chassis preventing the motor from turning over but with a floor jack i got it running in the lot it was sitting in. Tomorrow starts the tear down of the VTI. I will be using pretty much everything under the hood and the ecu. after i am finished, the VTI will be scrapped but im going to post photos of it once it arrives to let anyone on here have a look to see if they want anything off of it. (only things that i am not using) also the old motor and tranny in the ek-2 will have to go (d13b4).
 
#18 ·
More questions, I have been searching for a few hours on the internet but i cant find the answer so maybe someone on here can help me out. i have a p2j-j71 ecu for the d15b 3 stage and the cvt (mmt) tranny. but i cant find a pinout for the ecu to tell me what each port is for so i will know what all else i need to strip out of the part car. if anyone can find a pinout or if they know what the 4th connector is for and why my 2 civics have different wires running from the green connectors that run across the front of the ecu, that would be great... thanks
 
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