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awhile ago tunertoys had a housing/fitting that replaced the one on the head to the upper rad. hose that looked like you could run a really clean/simple line to at least half of the hoses. to bad there out of business

that and the block drain would make a really clean/simple coolant feed.

I also wanted to add that I didn't run coolant through my turbo on my civic and it hasn't killed the turbo or kill the seals or anything, but It would probably help temps and cooking parts around the turbo, like the dipstick, exhaust manifold, etc.
 
I was told to clock the cartridge 20* and an angle with the top of the turbo closer to the block, the water supply going in the turbo on the side facing the front of the car and the turbo water out let being closer to the block for better cooling.

Any one else come across this idea?

Yes, it was Garrett that created the recommendation. It's listed in their very informative Water Cooling white paper Here.
 
Should not the points where you tap your coolant lines have the largest possible pressure diffirence.
i.e. one point must have coolant at a higher pressure and the other at a lower pressure.

This is the only way you could ensure that there is flow right ?
So hence knowing the pressure of the coolant at your tap off points becomes critical. I see no mention off pressure anywhere ?

Nice thread. Esp. the pic of the engine. It shows where I taped one of my coolant lines.
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
one side is the pressure side one is the drain side on the setup i showed. you will get more than enough flow to and from the turbo to keep it cooled. i ran the setup like this on both the gt-17 and t28 i had with absolutly no issues for a few years. i also tested it and it had enough flow to gush water out the line.
 
Thanks I had a read thru this.
http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga...com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/Garrett_White_Paper_01_Water_Cooling.pdf

After which I think there are two key points to be made.

1. You should know the pressure diff.
2. You should put your in line to the bottom and your out line to the top.
(For Thermo Syphon).

Im still confused about the pressure issue. So plan to open both lines. Fix a long tube to bring the level up. And start the car and see which line pumps more fluid. And has more pressure. That will get put to the bottom of the turbo.

Unless somebody can tell me. Which has more pressure i.e. the point circled in your first picture. (Niple on the long steel pipe to back of engine). Or the small port on the manifold.

If both are same or very little diff. Then circulation will be poor.
It make no matter which line you open to chk. Cause its so low in the system water will gush out. Need to figure out whats going on pressure wise.

One recommendation was to just use the points outline in the Edelbrock Turbo kit install those guys would have got it right for sure.

I still feel its worth the time and effort to find the two best pressure points.
 
also confused.

I welded a fitting to a spare outlet on the water pipe on the back of the block to the front of the turbo.
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the back of the turbo went to a T on the lower radiator hose.
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love this thread. was going to do it same way op did until neon sold me his set up. no hate here mate
 
I'm using the bung on the koyo radiator and a 1/8 npt to 6an fitting that's on the coolant port of the edlebrock manifold.
 
Reference rdc's post, #2 where it says on water cooled turbos to run the coolant input to the bottom port of the turbo so it leaves from the top.
I believe the reference of the top and bottom port are with the water ports, not the oil ports. It says to clock the turbo so one water port is higher than the other side, hence the top and bottom as referenced by the Garrett article.
 
approx a 20degree uphill cools best according to Garret's old article in the early 2000s. No, I did not read any above posts.

BEER ME. ITS FRIDAY
 
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