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Discussion Starter #1
*Mods feel free to sticky this

Parts needed:

-Barbed fittings for your turbo water ports
-Proper size rubber hose
-Small worm clamps
-Zip-ties
* optional double sided barbed fitting.





Step 1: Attach your barbed fittings to your turbo water ports.

Step 2: On the back side of your block there is a coolant line that runs from the iacv to the water pipe. Must be the hose that runs to the water pipe!

*Note: The nipple on the water pipe is not always in the middle, my d15 it was at the far left.




Step 3: Remove this hose. (note that this is not an easy thing to do with the motor in the car, I will explain another way in a minute)

Step 4: Run your new hose from the iacv to the turbo, then run from the other water port on the turbo back to the nipple on the water pipe.



Step 5: Worm clamp every thing well, zip-tie every thing up and make sure its all secured good.

Congrates your all done.

*As for the other way. Instead of removing the the hose from step 3, you can cut it, making sure to leave enough slack on both ends. Attach the new hoses to the old useing a double sided barbed fitting, make sure to clamp these.





There are also many aftermarket options as well for a "cleaner" look using -an fittings and stainless braided lines.

*If anybody has anything to add please feel free and i will update this post*
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1: i would assume so as when my line got cut from hitting the crank pully it was spraying out, and you don't need alot of water pressure....

2: and i dont think it'll mess with the signal as your techniquly tapping your turbo water feed line off the iacv's drain line.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i ran it like this for 6 or more months, without a problem.

i never tested on purpose the amount of water pressure....but.... like i said before i didn't zip tie the hose well enough up and my crank pully ate a hole threw the line. there was a huge puddle under my car, i popped the hood and started it to find the leak and it was pouring out, im sure that it would have been more than enough pressure.
 

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great write up. ive always wondered how this is done. now i know
thanks.

repped son
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i agree with you on not needing a TON of pressure but enough to make sure it would make it to the turbo and back efficiently.
it something i could test, i just dont know how well my motor will like it if i disconnect the return hose on the back of the block to check flow. it'll be a month or so till i get my car up and running and i will update with findings :)
 

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Awesome write up! Gotta do this in a couple of weeks so it will be very helpful! I'll run the line through my oil pressure gauge so I can see what kind of pressure were dealin with :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
you ever had any idle problems or heat problems running this setup?
i hot lapped it a few times at the track...as in stage..race..stop at booth for time slip....drive right back around with no line and pull back up to the tree....i did 5 or 6 back to back runs like this and water temps never went above 180*

no idle problems either....there is a small gremlin but it existed long before the turbo went on.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the only barbed fittings you will need are to hook up to your turbo. so i have no clue as to what size and thread pitch your turbo has. personnally i just brought my turbo into my local speed shop and started trying things till i found the right sizes
 

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the only barbed fittings you will need are to hook up to your turbo. so i have no clue as to what size and thread pitch your turbo has. personnally i just brought my turbo into my local speed shop and started trying things till i found the right sizes
Oh ya i understand that there all different sizes and you cant tell me of the top of your head, which one i need. Im just asking, if the barbed fittings in the canadian tire plumbing section would be okay to use. I dont need any special barbed fitting, do i?
 
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