Hard to mess up a wheel bearing install. I did notice that there is a side with rubber and an all metal side when installing mine. The side with rubber goes towards the back of the knuckle. Guessing is that its the most likely area for water to get in, so it seals up that part. What probably happened is you got a chinese wheel bearing. Next time go with SKF (Swedish) or Timken (Japanese), they are top quality. Expect to pay around 50 dollars per bearing. They will last though.

 

I don't think I pressed it in straight, maybe I damaged it a bit when I put it in, but yeah it was a chinese bearing. I did order SKF bearings this time, and I am getting a shop to press these ones in so hopefully they last a while. I don't want to have to do bearings every few months. A friend said that civics are hard on bearings, but probably because of like you said, people using cheap bearings.

 

what car did you buy for the turbo toy?

 

I was working on getting my hands on a 2nd gen. Mazda MX-6. I had one for quite a long time but had to scrap it due to frame rot, it's been about 4yrs now since I got rid of it and miss it quite a bit. Friend of mine has his in storage and was going to sell it to me to finish it up but that deal seems to have fallen apart so I am just going to focus on the Civic for now and have fun with it.

I am learning as I go also. I pressed in my bearings also. One of them split when pressing in the hub because I didn't have anything holding the back end of the bearing. I was able to press it back in place. Hoping I didn't kill it, gonna run it until it dies.

Have to make mistakes sometimes to learn! Hopefully not severe ones, but hopefully it lasts a while for ya before it takes a dump.

I'm a China bearing user over here. Bearings AND new hubs, front and back were $70 lmao.

No expectations with them, but once I actually make it to the track with this car, we'll see how they like to take corners... quality honestly didn't seem "too bad" when I got em. Pressed mine in straight.... giggity

Usually you can tell right away when something is of questionable quality, these didn't scream "you will die if you install me and drive 30 feet".

Of course, the length of time something from China lasts between folks varies so in incredibly much....

Sometimes cheap stuff lasts. I try not to go that route, but i always try and replace it with something better quality if possible.

 

I am learning as I go also. I pressed in my bearings also. One of them split when pressing in the hub because I didn't have anything holding the back end of the bearing. I was able to press it back in place. Hoping I didn't kill it, gonna run it until it dies.

 

I don't think I pressed it in straight. maybe I damaged it a bit when I put it in

 

I'm a China bearing user over here. Bearings AND new hubs, front and back were $70 lmao.

No expectations with them, but once I actually make it to the track with this car, we'll see how they like to take corners... quality honestly didn't seem "too bad" when I got em. Pressed mine in straight.... giggity

Usually you can tell right away when something is of questionable quality, these didn't scream "you will die if you install me and drive 30 feet".

Of course, the length of time something from China lasts between folks varies so in incredibly much....

 

Morty has been dropped a bit and I am really happy with how this car rides and handles. So much better. Now I am starting to see why so many people praise these cars when it comes to handling, I like to have fun with my friend in his 2017 Subaru Impreza. Sure, he is WAY faster, but he can't crank it around the corners like I can. I am more focused on handling over power, I would rather have a slow car that can turn a corner quick, over a quick car that can't corner for shit. Personal preference. Now I just need to make the civic the best of both worlds.. Car that can corner quick and still be quick in a straight.

Since my possible project car is no longer in the works, I am back to full focus on the Civic and researching into doing a D16z6 boost build.

Need to get better photos, but how it sits. It has a settled a bit more since these photos were taken. The ride is really nice.

 

Morty has received some more TLC this week, waterpump and timing belt, cam seal and crank seal, accessory belts, knock sensor, alternator with a rad flush, tranny top up and fresh oil change. I have done a lot on this car so far this year in regards to maintenance but I don't like leaving weird noises alone. I have dealt with a dead alternator in the past and you just know that sound... did a diagnostic on it and it was pooched.

I received my eye lids, they actually look better than I thought. Was going to wrap them and try and match the red with the car but it's just so many different shades of red so I left them black, and they blend in with the headlights really well, very subtle so I left it.

Ordered a go autoworks CAI to replace the good ol' whale D, may swap it back in during the winter, we shall see.

That's about it so far.

 

So, I had my timing belt, water pump and such done this week by a supposed reputable shop in my area... I have a hard time trusting shops because it never usually goes well for me and this experience didn't turn out any better. I am kicking myself for being lazy and I really should have just done it myself. Anyways this is what happened...

Took the car in - Shop messages me at the end of their work day and says, " Car is done. You can come get it.." Cool. So I go to the shop and the mechanic at the front desk says, " Is your car slow? Even driving it downhill.. it was really slow. So we played with the distributor to see if we could get more power out of it... " and right there, raised a red flag for me. They shouldn't have touched the distributor. It was at base timing when I brought it in, if they needed to play with the timing on the disty, wouldn't that alert you that maybe the job wasn't done correctly?

So they close up and I leave, wow.. was it ever bad. It was completely gutless, hesitation, bogging out, almost stalling. So I turned around, and dropped it back at the shop. Everyone had left, so I sent him a message and told him the situation... I don't know how they didn't feel that on the test drive, it was obvious something wasn't right. So he says, " Ok we better take a look at it..." .. Next day - I get a message after a few hours and he says, " Oops. We didn't line the timing marks up right. It's okay now.. " so I go back, talk to them and he says, " Yeah, sorry. It was off two teeth.." Two teeth? Really? Jesus. - So I left, and yes, it drives MUCH better. So I get it home, and decide.. I should probably take a good look at it.

Pop the hood and i notice my 2nd spark plug wire isn't pushed all the way in, my valve cover is leaking, I have a connector unplugged between my power steering res. and cruise control. It's a blue wire with an orange/brown plug, very short coming from the harness, so it has to go somewhere close in that area.. I am looking into what that could be. My drivers side headlight wiring is damaged, and so it doesn't work. I have a wicked rattling sound coming from my dash that I now can't find, the car vibrates like hell and I have a odd noise now coming from the engine area in 1st gear and upon acceleration.

Took it for a little run on the highway, anything between 100-120km/h, it shakes/vibrates like crazy. So maybe I lost a wheel weight, as a coincidence. I don't know. Either way, I am frustrated. They didn't re adjust my distributor either, so I am thinking I should acquire a timing light and check that out and bring it back to base timing... I believe the d16y8's are 12 degrees.

What do you guys think? Is it possible from it being two teeth off, I may have some valve damage? I'm really hoping that is not the case. The valve lash was adjusted as well. I drove 67kms since it's been out of the shop, and it's not looking like the gas milage is going to be great... it's already dropped from full to 3/4th.. ish and not driving it hard at all.

 

wow ,this is why I dislike todays parts changers,,even the most basic concept slips through their fingers.

make sure timing marks are correct set dizzy and you might even have to check their valve lashing ,I can picture the stupid people trying to change the belt,,I bet they even jacked on the oil pan when they took off the mount,,good thing its not steel...

 

I went ahead and borrowed a borascope to see if their was any evidence of contact but it looks pretty good in there, took it apart and reset the timing, and double checked the valve lash, a few were way too tight but I think I caught it all before any damage was done. It was terrifying taking out my spark plugs, they were in there SO tight. Each one felt like that moment where you think you're in the clear removing a bolt and then it snaps... Although that didn't happen and I replaced them with new ones, and not over tightened as well with a nice coating of anti-seize.

They also left a sticker on my windshield with my next due date for an oil change and it read 340,885... yet my odometer clearly states 385,885 at the time of pick up. I never asked them to do an oil change either, so it has god knows what cheap shit oil in it and some Purezone Filter, which I have never heard of before... Oi. Never again.

 

Suppose it's time for another update..

Since I had the timing belt and such done, and fixed the timing, the car has been running great. I haven't really been doing much except for regular maintenance and exterior stuff. I am working on saving up for a d16z6 for a boost build, would like to be ready to put it all together by winter 2021, tis the goal anyway. First thing though is making sure the car is structurally good to go, which is my 2021 spring/summer project.

I bought a Go-Autoworks Cold air intake and only ran it for a short while and then converted it to a short ram. Maybe it was all in my head but the car seem to really bog with the CAI, since I shortened it up, it doesn't feel like it is suffocating? and I can actually hear it now. I love the induction growl.

I had a crappy Ebay Type-R replica front grill which fit like crap, so I swapped it out for the factory grill, which I like better now.

Added a CTR rep. front lip.

Picked up a set of EK Hatch Canadian SE 14" stock alloy's for winter driving. They are in pretty nice shape, just a bit stained from brake dust and such over the years but I would really like to get them refinished at some point.

Removed the spoiler since it cracked and was lifting off the trunk, due to bad gaskets and a broken bolt, and from the rust it was starting to leak into the trunk. We just got a new pick n pull yard about 20mins from my place, called Kenny U Pull and it's a fantastic yard. I am so glad they are closer. I used to have to drive 2-3hrs to get to the closest location. They have a 98 coupe in the yard, same colour. So I am going to go and see what they want for the trunk and whatever else I can squeeze off of it.. hopefully before the snow flies.

I bought a plaid shift boot, universal and didn't realize i needed the factory shift boot for it to fit properly so I am looking for one of those, and also got a custom ancient bog oak shift knob made. Picked up some smoked Si tails to replace my leaky, broken ones.

Have a new HID kit coming from Absolute HID Canada, I have some cheap ass janky ones and the ballasts keep dying, so I spent the money on a higher quality canbus kit, also ordered some LED yellow bulbs for the fogs. Almost ready for winter. Just need to do an oil change and under coat. Good to go.

I think that is about it... Car hit 391kms the other day. Here are some photos over the past few months

 

Update:
Bought wheel arches so I can do the rust repair properly. I am surprised it lasted as long as it did before it started to get ugly again. Just need to buy a dog leg panel for the drivers side. I'll post before/after photos when I get to it.

Hit 400,000kms and all that happened was the starter took a dump and the internal seal on the ditsy crapped out, so I opened it up and changed that but there was a ton of corrosion, and cracks everywhere so I just went ahead and bought a new reman.

Aside from that not much has changed... Painted the wheels to change it up but I think next year I am going to sell them and grab some Konig Dekagrams.

Hmm I bought a black widow angry housewife muffler that I am going to replace the Yonaka with.. change it up. Curious to hear it with the UEL header.

Replaced the fugly plaid shifter boot with a Honda Type R leather boot. Looks so much nicer.

Oh and finally replaced the windshield

Most recent photo.

 

bought a black widow angry housewife muffler

Is that a brand? Or an observation?

Just curious

You've definitely got one of the nicest examples of a Civic in Ontario I'm sure. Keep it clean, and people will continue to pay good money for em!

 

Where did you buy the wheel arches from?

 

The car is looking great, keep it up!

I know it' none of my business but you should consider getting a car for the winters, they really are hell on a car.

 

The car is looking great, keep it up!

I know it' none of my business but you should consider getting a car for the winters, they really are hell on a car.

Thank you! Yes, I am hopefully not driving it through any more winters, but shall see. I may have to do it one more season though The brine is brutal.

--

Update:
Had a bit of an issue this morning. Coming home, wasn't driving crazy, easy going, coming up a hill, the car bucked super hard and died. I got it pulled over without issue and didn't see any carnage anywhere behind me. Popped the hood and everything looked good for the most part. (I was having a coolant issue where the coolant was overflowing out the rad cap. I changed the cap, and hoses/clamps but upon inspection this morning.. Their was coolant again on top of the rad. So, I am assuming it is a separate issue and I need a new rad... I hope it's not related, car doesn't over heat).

I tried starting it once I was on the side of the road and it would crank, but absolutely will not turn over and it didn't sound great. So.. I got it towed home. Hopefully I can dig into it tomorrow if it's not raining.

So, last year, I believe I posted about it in this thread. I had the car serviced at a "reputable" shop, they had trouble timing it, and it took them a few tries. Either way, They were supposed to do the timing belt, water pump, etc. the whole shebang... My previous car did the same thing where it bucked and died.. and it turned out to be the timing belt tensioner.

So, I have been hearing a little whine the past week and thought it was a wheel bearing, or my clutch (I do have pilot bearing noises) coming from somewhere up front. It wasn't consistent but I did notice it made more noise when coasting or at low rpms.... but now... could it have been my timing belt tensioner? Maybe it seized? Skipped a tooth? I figure if the timing was off just slightly, the car should run, but run like crap.. it won't run at all. So i am expecting the worst.

What do you guys think?

 

I couldn't find a place that did inner wheel arches. I got lucky with my build as most of it was replaced by the outer wheel arch. Good luck with your build.

 

Check timing belt for sure, sounds like it could have jumped, broke or shreaded teeth.

It sounds like you've already tried cranking it over, be careful because these are interference engines. Pistons can shake hands with valves.

Since you've already tried turning it over, and you probably still have all the timing covers installed over the timing belt, just pop the distributor cap off and have someone bump the starter very briefly. When the starter hits, if the rotor in the distributor doesnt turn or move at all, your belt is not engaged.

You can also check cam rotation looking through the oil cap hole, and watching for rocker arms moving, but you might have to crank longer to feel confident in noticing movement.

Or you can just pull the valve cover up slightly and remove the top timing belt cover and visually inspect the belt.

Pick your flavor


You could have a radiator issue where your blowing coolant out, but to be sure you might want to have the radiator pressure tested.

Check the coolant overflow bottle as well. If the overflow bottle is full to the top, then you "could" have an issue with your head gasket, making you think you're issue is with the radiator.

If you dont feel comfortable trying to diagnose all that yourself, or dont have all the tooling, you might want to go ahead and find a reputable reputable shop (double reputable lol) to help you out, because there could be a few things going on.

 

Update: Here is the first photo I took upon taking the valve cover off and expecting the worst..

So far:
- The timing belt is not broken, but if I am correct, the slack side is the rear (facing firewall) and the tension side should be in front (facing front of car), right? If that is the case, it is fairly loose on the tension side, and not so much on the slack side..

- Removed spark plugs, no oil, no metal shavings/debris on them. They actually look pretty good. I am going to borrow a friends borescope and see if I can't find any internal carnage. I used a small LED flash light but I really can't see much of anything, just some carbon build up on top of the pistons.

It has been raining a lot but I have everything off that I need to be able to crank it by hand, so I can set the timing. The cam is off by what I believe is two teeth? Sorry for the crappy photo but this is what the cam gear is sitting at with the crank lined up properly.

So.. I have a D16Y8 head.. but this is not a Y8 Cam gear? It looks like a B7 cam gear? From what I have been reading, I should have a adjustable cam gear because of this particular swap, it will be off 1/2 a tooth? and... I need to time it to 4.75 degrees? I have been reading like crazy but I have read so many different opinions about cam gears and some say I don't need one, others say I do if I want perfect timing.

I haven't checked valve lash or anything.. My next step is making sure everything is timed/lined up properly and then doing a compression test.

Here is what my rad looks like... It was actually worse the next day, it was green like that all around the top of the rad and had a much larger puddle on the shroud.

Sorry if I sound like a broken record or if I missed an obvious post about this sort of stuff but thanks a lot for all the help. Appreciate it.

 

find you a coolant pressure tester, just to rule out the plastic tank hasn't come apart on the radiator.
Radiator Pressure Test Kit

you might be able to rent them at autozone.

https://automotrizenvideo.com/wp-co...ile-uploads/admin/2014/05/timing-belt-tension-adjustment-d16y5-d16y7-d16y8-.pdf

 

find you a coolant pressure tester, just to rule out the plastic tank hasn't come apart on the radiator.
Radiator Pressure Test Kit

you might be able to rent them at autozone.

https://automotrizenvideo.com/wp-co...ile-uploads/admin/2014/05/timing-belt-tension-adjustment-d16y5-d16y7-d16y8-.pdf

Thank you for the PDF. As soon as I begun putting pressure into the rad, it was exploding coolant all over the place around the plastic at the top, at the bottom, so I deemed it as junk.

what is the code stamped on the head?

and cam gear depends on what cam is installed .

from looking you have a mutt engine if you are sure about having a y8 head installed.

Definitely a mutt engine for sure but I can't remember what the head stamp is, I will have to take a look in the morning.

--

Update:

So, I had the car running today, nothing is broken internally but the timing was off a little bit and the rotor set screw in the distributor decided it wanted out and therefore my rotor jammed in the housing. So I had a few different problems. When I took off the ditsy cap I noticed some plastic shredded inside and smelled like melted plastic.

I had ordered a new distributor not too long ago, and meant to send it back since it was the wrong one but procrastination ... worked out for me this time though. I used it for parts and whatever was broken on the ditsy, I just replaced with the new stuff I had and put lock tite on the set screw.

The timing is still off a little bit so I am going to double check that tomorrow, but I don't have any knocking, ticking, etc. I will double check the valve lash as well but from the looks of it.. I think I got lucky.

The radiator spews coolant whenever pressure was applied into the filler neck to test it, it was leaking at the bottom and the plastic housing at the top so I just went ahead and ordered a new one from Yonaka since they're having a Canada Day sale. Hard to pass up a new rad, with shroud and slim fan for $187.

So hopefully tomorrow I will have everything done correctly, buttoned up and it won't fall flat on it's face when I take it for another test drive.

 

what is the code stamped on the head?

and cam gear depends on what cam is installed .

from looking you have a mutt engine if you are sure about having a y8 head installed.

 

Update:

Okay, so I have confused myself now. I feel like I have thoroughly looked into this and why I have been calling it D15/Y8 Mini Me - but from what I have been reading online after looking up the head stamp, I would actually have a P08-01 which is the JDM D15b? Because this one is VTEC, it would be from the Del Sol or the Vti? The block stamp says D15B. So does this mean I am a retard and I have a true JDM D15B? The writing on the valve cover says D15B7 but I did notice that the Intake Manifold is the same design/shape of the Y8 and not the D15B.

My ECU is a P2P - Which is for the D16Y8 and it being OBD2?

So, would the P2P ecu with a D15B motor be an issue? Fuel mileage isn't the best and it does run rich.

 

d15b and d16z6 use the p08 head but it's looking like it's a obd1 jdm d15b with obd2 intake and oil pump.

spark maps would not be ideal with that ecu.
is there a knock sensor ?

 

I am not sure, I am going to assume it doesn't because these motors don't typically, correct? I will check though.

match the ecu to the head.

or get something programmable and do basically whatever you want forever

That's the plan for future.. Run a p28 with Hondata which seems to be the popular choice, need to save up some loonies first

--

Update:

I am waiting on a distributor. I purchased a new one since the one on the car is dinkered. I really shouldn't have just assumed the rotor and cap were all that was damaged when the screw came out but, I guess I was just trying to be hopeful. I bought a timing light yesterday (Bosch Digital for $45) and I had the ditsy absolutely cranked as advanced as possible and that line in between the 3 was close, but not close enough. I guess to give you an idea:

The V is the gunsight, timing line on right, the 3 for ign. timing on left, etc.. The V is as close as I could get it.

| | | V |

It would seem to set fine, I would move it in the driveway for a minute and then it seems to revert back to the original shit way. It wouldn't run, no power, stall, fall on it's face.. etc. So I took the ditsy off and opened it up. Found some pretty obvious issues right off the bat. I can spin the shaft as if it were a basketball on my finger.. It just keeps going.. and makes a bad bearing crunchy noise. The pickup housing was cracked as well.

Aside from that.. I fitted a CTR front lip on Morty. I like it way better than the one that I had on it before It is going to stay black for now, but I may wrap it body colour when I do the rest of the car.

Until next time...

 

match the ecu to the head.

 

or get something programmable and do basically whatever you want forever

 

please don't buy in to the hondata fagwagon those guys are turdasses.

 

I agree. HTS or Neptune. HTS is basically a copied version of ECTune, so I'd trust it. Not super high on Hondata either at this point. Especially since here in the states you can get fined for buying one at this point. Yay EPA! See the stuff from PFI Speed on that.

And btw the car looks great!

Interesting. Looks like I am some reading and research to do and thanks for the compliment on the car.

 

I agree. HTS or Neptune. HTS is basically a copied version of ECTune, so I'd trust it. Not super high on Hondata either at this point. Especially since here in the states you can get fined for buying one at this point. Yay EPA! See the stuff from PFI Speed on that.

 

And btw the car looks great!

 

You are welcome! HTS (Honda Tuning Suite) is free, you just need an emulator (Moates Ostrich/Hulog with chips, Cobra RTP, or Demon RTP) and it'll do all the things that Hondata does. HTS has a Facebook group that is pretty decent. Worth the read up anyhow. It also has all the boost by gear, popcorn mode, machine gun backfire BS that all the ricers love. Oh wait, I also love some of that sometimes............especially when the exhaust grenades off the car........but I digress. I know a dealer for the Cobra RTP that is a legit friend in Minnesota that could hook you up. I get nothing out that and can perhaps even swing a discount if he can. Read up on the ways you can do it.