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this is a highly debated subject, from what ive read (and this may be wrong) is that the rods may be thicker/heaver/wider but they may be made out of a weaker steel.

So even though they are physically larger/heavier they compare basically to the stock d16 rods that are pretty damn skinny. a set of godspeed, manley or even some used eagle rods would be your best option and have far more reliability than a simple shot peened rod.

b18 rods 50$+ 100$ machine work
250$ new godspeed forged h-beam rods
200$ used eagle h-beams.

it doesnt add up to me.
 
this is a highly debated subject, from what ive read (and this may be wrong) is that the rods may be thicker/heaver/wider but they may be made out of a weaker steel.

So even though they are physically larger/heavier they compare basically to the stock d16 rods that are pretty damn skinny. a set of godspeed, manley or even some used eagle rods would be your best option and have far more reliability than a simple shot peened rod.

b18 rods 50$+ 100$ machine work
250$ new godspeed forged h-beam rods
200$ used eagle h-beams.

it doesnt add up to me.
That is ZC/D16A rods not B18/20
 
my car actually came with the old A1 rods but now im running B18B/B20 rods.

I got them for $40 , crower bushings around $50 shipped , $40 ARP rod bolts than around $60 for machine shop work. shaving big end, pressing in the small end bush and honing it for vitara pin and correct out of roundness on the big end..

I mainly went with them cause they don't require any modifications to the block. plus im not going for crazy power..
 
^^

thats cheap.. My shop charged me 80 just for the big end for ARP's


125 total for pressing on the new pistons and resize.
 
Does anyone have any side-by-side pictures of the 86/87 D16A1 PG6 rods vs the stock D15/D16 rods? I've always heard the 86-87 D16A1 rods can handle about 50hp more than the stock D15/D16 rods but they don't appear all that thicker. Seems like that is a cheaper solution to LS rods since they will bolt right into a D16 block.
 
Does anyone have any side-by-side pictures of the 86/87 D16A1 PG6 rods vs the stock D15/D16 rods? I've always heard the 86-87 D16A1 rods can handle about 50hp more than the stock D15/D16 rods but they don't appear all that thicker. Seems like that is a cheaper solution to LS rods since they will bolt right into a D16 block.
They are just about as strong as stock rods, LS rods are known to hold 200-250HP with no problems.

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D16A1 Rod Vs. D16Z6 Rod - Honda Forum : Honda and Acura Car Forums
 
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i didn't know.

if i planned on doing a full rebuild i would have went aftermarket rods. at first i was just going to do a rod and piston swap. i got a oil pan online that had a turbo drain already welded on but i didn't notice the bottom was dented in. it killed the #4 crank rod journal within the hour. i ended up doing a full block build after that.....
 
Start up a list there hoss.

I'll wait.

Many V8 engines use sintered rods stock.

All Honda rods as far as I'm aware are forged, though.
Eh, I guess there is a valid point with powdered metal technology rods. They don't undergo a traditional forging process but are forged in a way. That is unless I am forgetting some facts about how PM parts are made.
 
There are huge debates about the sintered rods being "forged" or not, but they are, for sure, NOT as strong as a "normal" forged rod, even if they have very significant manufacturing advantages for bone stock appliance engines.
 
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