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Timing Belt Snapped

19K views 73 replies 20 participants last post by  skeeterjdm88  
#1 ·
Hey you another post by me, and was driving and my timing belt snapped... I'm a boosted d16y8 and when this happened, my oil light popped on and my battery light popped on... This doing so, I know the out come of when this happens bent valves, hole in piston, etc. What can you tell me what happen with the info I gave you.. And when it did this I didn't hear nothing..
Thanks for you time!
 
#2 ·
You sure the belt snapped??? Like, you;ve taken off the cover and pulled the belt out?

If not.... step 1 ^

If so, yay!!! You could to a leak down test to see if any of your valves are toast. Or just pull the head and have a look see, you can look at the pistons this way too. If you take the head off and none of the valves are visibly bent, You should still check doing this:


If everything is ok, slap it all back together and NBD. mightve taken some time but at least you know for sure everything is ok.
 
#7 ·
Its all in a days work to pull the head n check it out for bent valves... Just take some time to check. Or if your lazy just throw a new timing belt on there and take the chance of wasting time and doing it twice :) Ive only seen this happen on one car and it was my buddys b18a1, he threw me a timing belt and a few bucks to put it on and it ran like new... Good luck on that :)
 
#10 · (Edited)
Thank god. I almost shat myself. I've been running 90* of advanced timing in the hopes of finding some sweet spot but my engine has just been getting worse and worse. Wont even turn over anymore. Wonder why.
 
#12 ·
Riddle me this batman. If they are not interference engines. Why do the pistons have valve reliefs?
 
#16 · (Edited)
....... mmmm....... D's are interference, no doubt in my mind. That's why ppl have to clay their engines when they build them with different rods/cams/pistons. To make sure even at the perfect amount of timing that the valves don't hit the pistons. Since the valves can even at ANY point contact the piston, it is there fore an interference engine.

Also.... Why would a piston need a valve relief if there weren't a chance that if the timing was slightly messed up that the valve could hit the piston. I guess if everything went well and at full lift and TDC the valve was cradled in the relief but not touching, that would make sense and make it a free running engine.

I was being very facetious earlier and assumed that you were playing along.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Looks like I was wrong.

Timing Belts: Is Your Engine an Interference Engine?

Oh well.

:lol:

....... mmmm....... D's are interference, no doubt in my mind. That's why ppl have to clay their engines when they build them with different rods/cams/pistons. To make sure even at the perfect amount of timing that the valves don't hit the pistons. Since the valves can even at ANY point contact the piston, it is there fore an interference engine.
Yeah, with non stock configurations. I was wrong though, so I guess 10 internetz to you sir.

:lol:

I still would like to know how having valve reliefs would indicate an interference engine versus a non-interference engine. It would make more sense to have very deep valve reliefs in a non-interference engine. Maybe I am being retarded tonight.

:/
 
#20 ·
d's are interference, simply not quite as much an interference motor as other cars.

I'm a former DSM guy and that is a full on interference motor, more than 2 teeth jump and you're hitting valves. I don't know what its like on a D, i know you have a slightly better chance of being okay but still broke timing belt is no good and chances are at least a few valves bit it if the belt did snap.
 
#21 ·
My bad about the reliefs. I did some thinking on that one and edited my post.
 
#23 ·
for sure you can get lucky some times. It depends on the driving situation, and a little bit of luck. But I bet you v8killaz, that on some of those engines that you just slapped a belt on and it ran. That some valves were bent, however slightly but still had enough compression to run.
 
#24 ·
Sometimes they bend valves, sometimes not even on an interference engine.

I would replace the belt as it is a lot less work and cost than pulling the head. If it fails leak down or compression tests, then pull the head.

Even a non interference engine might have had a cam change or some machine work done or piston replacement that changes it to interference.

If it broke at 25,000 kms or even 25,000 miles (you don't actually say which), it could be a bad bearing in any of the water pump, belt tensioner, distributor or camshaft or oil starvation to the cam or a bent cam or some FOD between the belt and pulley.
 
#27 ·
Yes, but once you remove the bolt, it usually just slides off as it is not a press fit.

That oil light and battery light came on because one the belt snapped, the engine stopped turning assuming you either have an auto or were in neutral or had the clutch disengaged.
 
#28 ·
Yes.

Oil light will come on because when your engine isn't running it isn't pumping any oil, so the sensor isn't seeing any pressure. Same thing with alternator and battery light.... I think. low voltage or what not. I like oil not electricity.
 
#32 ·
There are countless threads on how to get the crank bolt undone. That is the hard part. After that the rest is easy.

Careful you do not loose the tiny crank pulley key. They are often dislodged from both the groove in the crank snout and the groove in the pulley and fall to the ground never to be seen again.
 
#35 ·
We like this forum too lol. If I were you, I would take a piece of wood and put it between my jack and oil pan so as to not dent the pan when you are supporting it just in case it decides it wants to take a hone dive.

edit: mother fucker..... ppl been beating my to the punch all week