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If I were looking for an alternative way to fix my main relay problem, this thread has done nothing so far and will not help anyone. if you want to help make a DIY thread. I look at all threads that may interest me, is it for you to say who can read a thread or post? in all honesty it's very simple. Power to the ECU and injectors when the ignition is turned to run, power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds, and continuous power to the fuel pump when the car is running. I see that the timed priming sequence is controlled by the ecu which makes it even easier. with just looking at the schematics of the main relay I can write a DIY on what you have done already. However if I came across any member with a problem with their main relay my first thought would not be to bypass the main relay but offer them a working replacement of which I have many lying around.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
im sure anyone who has a main relay that is acting up would rather wire up a basic relay that can be baught for $5 and work just as good or even better. as thin as the stock fuel pump wire is they arent made to draw to many amps. i run a walbro 255 and the stock wire is even good enough for that. now my fuel pump is getting power from a better relay and not from a small relay connected to paper thin wire on a circuit board..
 
If I were looking for an alternative way to fix my main relay problem, this thread has done nothing so far and will not help anyone. if you want to help make a DIY thread. I look at all threads that may interest me, is it for you to say who can read a thread or post? in all honesty it's very simple. Power to the ECU and injectors when the ignition is turned to run, power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds, and continuous power to the fuel pump when the car is running. I see that the timed priming sequence is controlled by the ecu which makes it even easier. with just looking at the schematics of the main relay I can write a DIY on what you have done already. However if I came across any member with a problem with their main relay my first thought would not be to bypass the main relay but offer them a working replacement of which I have many lying around.
if ur such a fucking genius with everything why the fuck are u being a fucking dick. why not just lay the fuck off and stop leaving these bullshit comments where u are just down talking members of ur online community. uptown made something cost effective that he feels other memebers can benifit from whhen they are in a pinch. and either do not have the money to buy a new one or are not able to wait for one to fall into their lap. granted it should be in the DIY category but he didnt know. if ur damn main relay works so well why do u have MANY layin around???? are u afraid that ur 15 year old relay is gunna go?? that seems to me like the only logical reason to have MANY lyin around. why dont u post with stuff that might acctually be usefull to people other then thrying to degrade them at every chance u get!!!!!!
 
neonpinhead did make some useful suggestions that where discarded for non valid reasons and with attitude.

You don't need to do it his way, but his way does have some merit.

The kit does seem to supply good gauge wire where required.

It does retain all other main relay functions.

It does significantly reduce the current draw through the main relay.

It does supply a very good current supply to the pump.

The alternate is cheap if you have the parts laying around, but if you need to buy parts, well maybe or maybe not cost effective if you wish to retain all normal functions.

Don't bash a guy who has paid his dues for helping even if you choose not to take the advice
 
This^^^

The whole point of this thread is for him to sell a conversion kit or he would have shared it to begin with.

FACT A:
Xenocron FTW, Chris Harris is one of the best. The point to his kit is to run from the battery BECAUSE more voltage to a pump = more LPH even on a stock pump. And as stated less strain on the factory relay.

FACT B:
As you mentioned the ECU controls the pump as stated in previous posts unless you want to burn out your pump. Just supplying constant voltage

FACT C:
Spending money to convert a main relay is pointless when there is a free fix available.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

FACT D:
If you want to advertise and sell on this site contact sales@autoguide.com like the other vendors and pay $200 per month
 
There are other people on here who sell services without sponsoring the site. They do things like rebuild transmissions, supply odb0 to odb1 conversion harnesses and chipped ECUs at hobby or second job level so it seems to be tolerated if not specifically allowed.

If you go about promoting a sideline business in the correct way you will be OK, but if you demand rights to be heard and believed without question, you are looking to do yourself more harm than good.

Even the famous Bisi tried bulldozing any dissent from members here and I think he is now paying a hefty price in lost business despite his products reputation for quality.

If you want to sell here and you are a home workshop or cottage industry level business just put a simple line in your sig and HELP people from time to time.
 
neonpinhead did make some useful suggestions that where discarded for non valid reasons and with attitude.

You don't need to do it his way, but his way does have some merit.

The kit does seem to supply good gauge wire where required.

It does retain all other main relay functions.

It does significantly reduce the current draw through the main relay.

It does supply a very good current supply to the pump.

The alternate is cheap if you have the parts laying around, but if you need to buy parts, well maybe or maybe not cost effective if you wish to retain all normal functions.

Don't bash a guy who has paid his dues for helping even if you choose not to take the advice
i understand that he has helped ppl what i do not understand is why he is a jerk or i just veiw it that way by the way that he words alot of the things he has to say. maybe i took things the wrong way maybe i didnt. i guess there is no real way of telling unless he says he didnt. but to me it seemed like he was just trying to talk down the thinking that uptown has done on this project. one thing i hate is when ppl dont like something they just be a dick about it. why not say what u gotta say and just stop talking about it then. i mean if this was a serious discussion then it would probably would be viewed differently in my opinion. but when some one just keeps going on and on and on about it then they need to be told to just shut the fuck up.
 
and heres your cue to shut the fuck up. all ive been seeing u do the last two days is run your cocksucker like a 3 yr old assraped girl about neon being a dick.

he wasnt being a dick he was stating points of interest to ppl who may be interested in doing the upgrade the correct way. not saying op's idea is wrong. not saying it wouldnt work in a pinch, is it the way i would do it? no. will i do it his way? no. but alot of missinformation gets spread by ppl who think they know what they are doing. ( not implying u dont know what u r doing op)

the d is a place where we try to help ppl out and give ideas or constructive criticism. if u dont like neons way u dont have to post about why u dont like it. this is a two way street. u apparently have a problem with neon he apparently has one with you so just quit replying to each others post eating up bandwidth and cluttering the board.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
i just used my knowledge from years of reading schematics and doing electrical related repairs, i am ASE certified in automotive electronics . once i saw the schematic of the main relay internals it didnt take but 2 or 3 minutes to figure out how to bypass it and make it run off a regular automotive relay.

the one i have in my car doesnt look like the best piece of work but im going to make myself one with a relay harness and connectrs that will be soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing. probally use about $10 worth of material.

the relay i used is a 40 amp relay and im sure that is way better than whats inside the main relay. not to mention the 2 relays in the main relay work of a circuit board. if you have ever taken apart a circuit board you will see that its conducter is paper thin copper foil. so the relay i put in is definately an upgrade.

on top of that, if you look at the main relay schematic the power going through the fuel pump portion of the relay sends power from the ignition swith through the relay and to the pump. the way i wired it up it takes power from a constantly hot wire send it through the relay wich is controlled by the ecu. the relay grounds out through the ecu.

can someone tell me where the downside or flaw is?????????
 
Put_a_D_in_the_BISH

There is a well tested process called peer review. It has worked for modern science almost since the Renaissance. To work best it can be robust, but should be kept civil and respectful.

It is absolutely possible to be respectful while strongly disagreeing. Terms like My data indicates or in my experience or I do not follow your logic all work. Terms like arse fuck, moron, fail, deadbeat, mother fucker, shut the fuck up etc do not work
 
only downside i see is having to hack your wiring. for some ppl this could be a problem. me personally it is not. ive done several wiring jobs with relays. case in point having to wire in true euro audi 90 s2 lights in a 95 b4 audi 90. there are no wiring kits available for this and you have to make your own conversion harness's.
 
Looks nice, in fact extremely neat, but where do you get the HD wire to the fuel pump in the stock harness.
 
Well it appears you have plugged into the stock harness with the plug that normally plugs onto the main relay. That would run exactly the same wire from the battery or alternator to the fuel pump or have I missed something.
 
Are wires 1 and 7 original wires or have you upgraded the wire is my question.
 
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