during my main relay problem ive figuered out how to convert to running a standard automotive relay. i was wondering if people would have any interest in a conversion kit? i drove my car to work 32 miles each way and no problems. the pump primes everytime and starts up just the same.
uptownsamcv
just post what u figured out and if any body wants one just direct them to it thats what i would do bro
from what i see all that kit does is add a relay so your pump gets power from the battery and probally uses stock pump wire to turn the added relay on.
so a quick question. if you deleted the main relay all together how do you get the fuel pump to just prime and not stay on when you turn the key to run?
its wired up the exact same way the main relay would be wired not even a single diff he has a start button so he did it a tiny bit diff cuz he could eliminate a couple wires but esentially a main relay is a fancy way of setting up 2 seperate relays to sell to the public for a huge profit
instead of paying $60 for a new main relay or hunting one down in a salvage yard i put this together from a 40 amp fog light relay i had laying around with some male and female connectors. a 40amp relay is more than enough, even a 30 would do.
but his only cost him a bit of using his brain and like $2 and can be used as an anti theft device. dont hate on it cuz u dont see the whole picture
whatever works to get you where you need to be. Just wondering why someone would want to convert when they have a working main relay. My car is going on 17 years old and still has the original main relay, $60 for a quality OEM part that will last me that long, I say it's worth it. anything can be rigged up to work with the basic know how. the helms manual tells you everything you need to know about the electrical aspect of the car in order to change whatever you like.
like most people. im trying to save where i can. thats $60 that i can put towards my turbo build instead of a main relay. as for oem quality this main relay i pulled doesnt say honda anywhere on it. aretn all the main relays made from outside companies??
if you dont like the idea of an alternative way to fix a problem and save some $$$ than why did you even want to look into this thread??
this thread was meant for those with bad main relays and those who WILL have the problem later on.
and for those without a push button start i can make it work too ...
if you dont like the idea of an alternative way to fix a problem and save some $$$ than why did you even want to look into this thread??
this thread was meant for those with bad main relays and those who WILL have the problem later on.
and for those without a push button start i can make it work too ...
If I were looking for an alternative way to fix my main relay problem, this thread has done nothing so far and will not help anyone. if you want to help make a DIY thread. I look at all threads that may interest me, is it for you to say who can read a thread or post? in all honesty it's very simple. Power to the ECU and injectors when the ignition is turned to run, power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds, and continuous power to the fuel pump when the car is running. I see that the timed priming sequence is controlled by the ecu which makes it even easier. with just looking at the schematics of the main relay I can write a DIY on what you have done already. However if I came across any member with a problem with their main relay my first thought would not be to bypass the main relay but offer them a working replacement of which I have many lying around.
im sure anyone who has a main relay that is acting up would rather wire up a basic relay that can be baught for $5 and work just as good or even better. as thin as the stock fuel pump wire is they arent made to draw to many amps. i run a walbro 255 and the stock wire is even good enough for that. now my fuel pump is getting power from a better relay and not from a small relay connected to paper thin wire on a circuit board..
neonpinhead did make some useful suggestions that where discarded for non valid reasons and with attitude.
You don't need to do it his way, but his way does have some merit.
The kit does seem to supply good gauge wire where required.
It does retain all other main relay functions.
It does significantly reduce the current draw through the main relay.
It does supply a very good current supply to the pump.
The alternate is cheap if you have the parts laying around, but if you need to buy parts, well maybe or maybe not cost effective if you wish to retain all normal functions.
Don't bash a guy who has paid his dues for helping even if you choose not to take the advice
You don't need to do it his way, but his way does have some merit.
The kit does seem to supply good gauge wire where required.
It does retain all other main relay functions.
It does significantly reduce the current draw through the main relay.
It does supply a very good current supply to the pump.
The alternate is cheap if you have the parts laying around, but if you need to buy parts, well maybe or maybe not cost effective if you wish to retain all normal functions.
Don't bash a guy who has paid his dues for helping even if you choose not to take the advice
This^^^
The whole point of this thread is for him to sell a conversion kit or he would have shared it to begin with.
FACT A:
Xenocron FTW, Chris Harris is one of the best. The point to his kit is to run from the battery BECAUSE more voltage to a pump = more LPH even on a stock pump. And as stated less strain on the factory relay.
FACT B:
As you mentioned the ECU controls the pump as stated in previous posts unless you want to burn out your pump. Just supplying constant voltage
FACT C:
Spending money to convert a main relay is pointless when there is a free fix available.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
FACT D:
If you want to advertise and sell on this site contact sales@autoguide.com like the other vendors and pay $200 per month
The whole point of this thread is for him to sell a conversion kit or he would have shared it to begin with.
FACT A:
Xenocron FTW, Chris Harris is one of the best. The point to his kit is to run from the battery BECAUSE more voltage to a pump = more LPH even on a stock pump. And as stated less strain on the factory relay.
FACT B:
As you mentioned the ECU controls the pump as stated in previous posts unless you want to burn out your pump. Just supplying constant voltage
FACT C:
Spending money to convert a main relay is pointless when there is a free fix available.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
FACT D:
If you want to advertise and sell on this site contact sales@autoguide.com like the other vendors and pay $200 per month
if i was just trying to profit from it i wouldnt have posted a write up with schematics and wiring diagram in the DIY section. heres the link to the DIY i posted earlier...
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/142154-diy-low-cost-main-relay-replacemet-upgrade.html
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/142154-diy-low-cost-main-relay-replacemet-upgrade.html
There are other people on here who sell services without sponsoring the site. They do things like rebuild transmissions, supply odb0 to odb1 conversion harnesses and chipped ECUs at hobby or second job level so it seems to be tolerated if not specifically allowed.
If you go about promoting a sideline business in the correct way you will be OK, but if you demand rights to be heard and believed without question, you are looking to do yourself more harm than good.
Even the famous Bisi tried bulldozing any dissent from members here and I think he is now paying a hefty price in lost business despite his products reputation for quality.
If you want to sell here and you are a home workshop or cottage industry level business just put a simple line in your sig and HELP people from time to time.
If you go about promoting a sideline business in the correct way you will be OK, but if you demand rights to be heard and believed without question, you are looking to do yourself more harm than good.
Even the famous Bisi tried bulldozing any dissent from members here and I think he is now paying a hefty price in lost business despite his products reputation for quality.
If you want to sell here and you are a home workshop or cottage industry level business just put a simple line in your sig and HELP people from time to time.
and heres your cue to shut the fuck up. all ive been seeing u do the last two days is run your cocksucker like a 3 yr old assraped girl about neon being a dick.
he wasnt being a dick he was stating points of interest to ppl who may be interested in doing the upgrade the correct way. not saying op's idea is wrong. not saying it wouldnt work in a pinch, is it the way i would do it? no. will i do it his way? no. but alot of missinformation gets spread by ppl who think they know what they are doing. ( not implying u dont know what u r doing op)
the d is a place where we try to help ppl out and give ideas or constructive criticism. if u dont like neons way u dont have to post about why u dont like it. this is a two way street. u apparently have a problem with neon he apparently has one with you so just quit replying to each others post eating up bandwidth and cluttering the board.
he wasnt being a dick he was stating points of interest to ppl who may be interested in doing the upgrade the correct way. not saying op's idea is wrong. not saying it wouldnt work in a pinch, is it the way i would do it? no. will i do it his way? no. but alot of missinformation gets spread by ppl who think they know what they are doing. ( not implying u dont know what u r doing op)
the d is a place where we try to help ppl out and give ideas or constructive criticism. if u dont like neons way u dont have to post about why u dont like it. this is a two way street. u apparently have a problem with neon he apparently has one with you so just quit replying to each others post eating up bandwidth and cluttering the board.
i just used my knowledge from years of reading schematics and doing electrical related repairs, i am ASE certified in automotive electronics . once i saw the schematic of the main relay internals it didnt take but 2 or 3 minutes to figure out how to bypass it and make it run off a regular automotive relay.
the one i have in my car doesnt look like the best piece of work but im going to make myself one with a relay harness and connectrs that will be soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing. probally use about $10 worth of material.
the relay i used is a 40 amp relay and im sure that is way better than whats inside the main relay. not to mention the 2 relays in the main relay work of a circuit board. if you have ever taken apart a circuit board you will see that its conducter is paper thin copper foil. so the relay i put in is definately an upgrade.
on top of that, if you look at the main relay schematic the power going through the fuel pump portion of the relay sends power from the ignition swith through the relay and to the pump. the way i wired it up it takes power from a constantly hot wire send it through the relay wich is controlled by the ecu. the relay grounds out through the ecu.
can someone tell me where the downside or flaw is?????????
the one i have in my car doesnt look like the best piece of work but im going to make myself one with a relay harness and connectrs that will be soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing. probally use about $10 worth of material.
the relay i used is a 40 amp relay and im sure that is way better than whats inside the main relay. not to mention the 2 relays in the main relay work of a circuit board. if you have ever taken apart a circuit board you will see that its conducter is paper thin copper foil. so the relay i put in is definately an upgrade.
on top of that, if you look at the main relay schematic the power going through the fuel pump portion of the relay sends power from the ignition swith through the relay and to the pump. the way i wired it up it takes power from a constantly hot wire send it through the relay wich is controlled by the ecu. the relay grounds out through the ecu.
can someone tell me where the downside or flaw is?????????
Put_a_D_in_the_BISH
There is a well tested process called peer review. It has worked for modern science almost since the Renaissance. To work best it can be robust, but should be kept civil and respectful.
It is absolutely possible to be respectful while strongly disagreeing. Terms like My data indicates or in my experience or I do not follow your logic all work. Terms like arse fuck, moron, fail, deadbeat, mother fucker, shut the fuck up etc do not work
There is a well tested process called peer review. It has worked for modern science almost since the Renaissance. To work best it can be robust, but should be kept civil and respectful.
It is absolutely possible to be respectful while strongly disagreeing. Terms like My data indicates or in my experience or I do not follow your logic all work. Terms like arse fuck, moron, fail, deadbeat, mother fucker, shut the fuck up etc do not work
only downside i see is having to hack your wiring. for some ppl this could be a problem. me personally it is not. ive done several wiring jobs with relays. case in point having to wire in true euro audi 90 s2 lights in a 95 b4 audi 90. there are no wiring kits available for this and you have to make your own conversion harness's.
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