do not waste your time and money on knock off turbo.

sooner or later u gonna replace it with a real one.

 

As long as they work for you and your setup who cares what we think?

I would run em' rebuild the turbo and replace the seals should be fine

 

Of course i am the setup i want once the bottom end is built is a top mounted ball bearing set up but for time being i want to just turbo the stock motor to play on the weekends nothing above 10 psi i dont see it hurting me especially for how much im going to spend on it

 

They both will do the job. But the off brand will make you be at more of a risk of a failing part. As for repairing turbo parts. You can buy a cheap turbo and use quality parts to rebuild them and typically they are as good as the good products.

 

I didnt know if anyone had any major issues with knock off parts the blow off valve worked fine on the wrx and the godspeed turbo work for a bit when my buddy bought his car just started blowing oil real bad towards the end before he replaced it

For the price of it i would be dumb not to buy it and rebuild to sell or use just use a good rebuild kit and make it less *********** and more merican but honestly in todays stance and hellaflushness the *********** ebay turbos are jdm and thats what the kids want. no one cares about power anymore

 

I had a knock off rs blow off valve on a set up I used to use. I put a heavier spring in it and called it a day. I have no idea if the blow off valve ever failed on that set up but in the two years of ownership of that one I personally was good.

 

As of right now i dont see any issue with the cheapies current goal is 200hp with stock motor just to make it a little more fun to drive and to mess with all the swapped guys locally mainly a 240hp supercharged K swapped teg but eventually the tubular log mani and cheap turbo will be sold and a nice top mount and ball bearing turbo will replace it this is more or less a feeler for how the turbo will spool and how i want the setup to act

 

As of right now i dont see any issue with the cheapies current goal is 200hp with stock motor just to make it a little more fun to drive and to mess with all the swapped guys locally mainly a 240hp supercharged K swapped teg but eventually the tubular log mani and cheap turbo will be sold and a nice top mount and ball bearing turbo will replace it this is more or less a feeler for how the turbo will spool and how i want the setup to act

i have a knock off blow off valve that was free. I got a godspeed turbo for $20 i ended up with a blueridge log manifold for free. So far i havent spent a dime on my car except what i paid for it. Power goals will be high but wont see more than 300hp on the street but i will have radials for those times. Why not use a top mount they look badass and i can get a great quality one for the same price as most ram horns. The final turbo will be a ball bearing setup so i dont lose too much spool time and still have big capabilities all in all i want a nice looking setup as well as function.

It wont meet my power levels its going to be over 400 on race gas

So from reading this I can tell you don't know what you want 200-300-400 :willy_nilly:
Once you figure out what you want to do and what your plans are for the car then ask for help until then your just wasting peoples time that are trying to help you out! :willy_nilly::willy_nilly:

 

what are your long term power goals and why are you so set on a top mount? they are only around so you can fit a bigger turbo.

dont get caught up in the huge turbo bandwagon. size it properly for your power goals. anything more then 300-350 on the street is not ideal and will cause serious traction issues which will actually make you slower.

 

I'm sure there's plenty of people out there with stories of failed knockoff parts but there are going to be several stories of failed genuine parts also. Obviously the genuine part has a better chance of longevity over the knockoff though. As for the turbo, I've seen several cases where the cheaper option has worked for the buyer. I have also seen this with BOV's. The part that would scare me the most is the wastegate. Since the wastegate is a protective device (of sorts) I wouldn't suggest cheaping out on it.

 

heres my thinking on knock offs:

wastegate = ok if you have boost cut.
BOV = ok to use, tial knock off's seeem to be the best quality.
Turbo = ok to use with quality rebuild parts
Intercoolers = could be better but gets the job done
Intercooler piping = ok

 

Well I have been through parts in the past 10 years with my Honda and I will firmly say BUY REAL QUALITY FIRST. Dont mess around with knock-off crap... why? because even if the knock-off lasts, guess what? You still paid good money for them AND you also will be paying for a better part. So bite the bullet and buy quality from the start.

 

Dont mess around with knock-off crap... why? because even if the knock-off lasts, guess what? You still paid good money for them AND you also will be paying for a better part.

Huh?

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Cheap parts are not that good but it just depends on what u realy want out of it. I just wont put a ebay turbo
on 13+ pounds the seals go out preaty soon

 

i have a knock off blow off valve that was free. I got a godspeed turbo for $20 i ended up with a blueridge log manifold for free. So far i havent spent a dime on my car except what i paid for it. Power goals will be high but wont see more than 300hp on the street but i will have radials for those times. Why not use a top mount they look badass and i can get a great quality one for the same price as most ram horns. The final turbo will be a ball bearing setup so i dont lose too much spool time and still have big capabilities all in all i want a nice looking setup as well as function.

 

Im not going to spend $200 on a knockoff wastegate when a new tial is $250 that wouldnt make sense but since i get this stuff dirt cheap im going to give it a try

 

if your going for baller status turbo in your face action, then go for it!



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Uniersal-35.../130836253434?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7672cafa&vxp=mtr

show me a knock off wastegate that costs $200....

 

they are alot cheaper than i thought i dont know why i havent bought one then. and yea the top mount manifold is more for confusion it will only be a 200hp z6 with a ball bearing turbo and top mount

 

to each their own! what size turbo you going to run? i would just go with a custom twin scroll manifold with a twin scroll turbo. cheaper than a ball bearing turbo and top mount, and will spool faster than a ball bearing. you could make it top mount if you really wanted too.

just make sure you have boost cut active to be prepared when that wastegate fails.

 

i dont have a wastegate yet not really in too much of a hurry ill spend the money on a brand name new or used one. i didnt think about a twin scroll setup im still in between what turbo to run i cant make my mind up im looking at the precision 5858 or a 6257 or even a t04e

 

take a look at the evo 8 turbos with a proper twin scroll manifold.

you will love everything you read/see. its a proper turbo for 300~whp.

thats what i am using in my set up. check my sig.

 

It wont meet my power levels its going to be over 400 on race gas

 

ooohhhhhh

 

I have been running a Godspeed T3 60/63 since last year. I have had no problems with the turbo. I am however not using the garden hose sized oil feed provided with the turbo, and instead I am using the smaller (and probably discontinued) Tuner Toys feed lines.

Use the right size oil feed and you won't need to use a restrictor.

Knock off's work, the real deal works mo' betta'

 

A "Tuner Toys" feed line is a -3AN line.

 

That's the same size you guys use for you oil line kits isn't it?

 

Bro, you should research some other peoples builds. You will find LOTS of useful information AND you'll see what people are achieving with what parts.

 

you can never expect much from ebay/knock off/china parts...you always get what you pay for....do it right, do it once. i like real parts for the piece of mind, it wont fuck up, and if it does, SOME of the real parts, have warranties

 

Look, saying what do you think of 'knockoff' parts or 'ebay' parts is ambiguous; same as asking what we think of 'legit' parts. At the end of the day, everything is originating in a factory (most likely in China) with similar or same materials; what it comes down to is R&D and who did the design/legwork. I can tell you that the two (going on 3 now) 'knockoff'/'ebay' headers I bought for $50 shipped are great. I have not had a single weld crack and they have taken abuse, winter driving/summer driving, track days, you name it. That's more than a lot of 'legit' header owners can say. However there are other ebay parts (and 'legit parts') that are complete shit. You have to approach this on a seller-by-seller/part-by-part-basis. For example. OBX makes shit parts.. but their TBs work fine.. their GEN 1 LSDs work fine.

It comes down to the type of parts too. If your TB breaks what else takes a shit? If your LSD breaks what else takes a shit? If a connecting rod lets go though... If your wastegate creeps boost...

Things to consider. A knockoff turbo might blow the seals and leak some oil (been there, done that), but the likelihood of it coming apart completely is nill. I have had a legit Garrett turbo completely disassemble itself and grenade with 0 miles on it. The self-rebuild kits are $35 shipped on ebay. On a budget build.. the turbo might feasibly be something you can cheap out on.

That being said, every single part on my car was purchased new and is of a reputable manufacturer; so take that for what it is worth as well.