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GE makes a good kit, but on my LS/V I'm using the KGParts.com conversion kit. Comes with dowels, head plug, oil feed line, and all fittings. It's inexpensive too. I'm running stock LS rods (exact same as B20) and stock NPR replacement pistons...and every time I drive my car, it sees 8000 at least once. I'm also using ACL Race bearings and she is happier than ever (over 15K miles on this motor since the build). As far as rev limit, that's determined more or less by your valvetrain. If you're running upgraded valvetrain, 8500-9K won't be an issue. Personally, I don't make any power passed 7800, so I just spin it to ~8K usually (I'm running a B20/V tune, so yes, it's rich and only made 142whp/118wtq, but it's 100% safe and runs great). As far as headgasket goes, I'm using a Cometic (can't remember what thickness) and I have a B16 head w/ GSR cams. Unless you plan on boosting it or revving to the sky, stock rod bolts and stock valvetrain will easily go to 8000-8200 all day long. I tracked my LS/V @ VIR for a Hyperdrive a few years ago, and she pretty much stayed above 5K for the full 30 minutes...never once an issue (other than my alternator falling off and the bracket and belt rolling across the track, but that's what happens when you make a D-series alternator work on a B-series motor and don't tighten a bolt up completely LOL).

O Man! how rich? you can easily make more power.
 
I run the bearing clearances on the loose side myself.

IMO, run them in the middle to loose side of the VTEC specs. The non VTEC specs are a lot tighter.

PiKapp, those power numbers are pretty sickly for a B20V. Those power numbers are either on a hell of a heartbreaker dyno, and/or there is somehting wrong with your setup.

Hell, mine is considered weak for what it is, but it met my goals first pull on the dyno with one of my street tunes. 199 WHP, and 143 WTQ on a Dynojet 224x with STD correction (if my memory serves me correctly).

I don't care for Cometic gaskets, and prefer the OEM gaskets that are bored oversize by Golden Eagle.

ARP studs are pretty much the standard, but I think I prefer GEs design.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I do hope this goes well for yours and my sake as well....

:ph34r:

I am just glad you decided to go B20/v
Lolwut? If I didn't have to sleeve a GSR for 84mm I'd have suggested that route. I cannot wait to get it going though, gotta turn something fast outta the House of Honda, mine's always gonna be slow ;)
 
well fack i thought the mad tyte second gen SiR motor was fun. i might just have to pick up a ls short block or crv short block....
 
^no wonder!
Well he is running a tune off a friends tuned B20v so it's to be expected. Car still pulls damn good though because it's lighter than a baby's fart.
 
8 or 9 years ago i built a LSVtec.. it ran pretty good. 160whp with very minimal tuning. had pr3 .5mm oversize pistons. stock LS rods with arp bolts and resized, GSR block girdle, mains line honed, ACL bearings, ARP head studs, B16 head & cams & IM, Greddy 4-2-1 header & greddy SP exhaust.

i'm picking up a B20 long block at the end of the month.. staying non vtec as i rarely rev past 4k rpm.. going to try to build it for low/mid rpm power.. we'll see how it goes.
 
O Man! how rich? you can easily make more power.
I don't have my dyno sheet in front of my, but I believe when it goes into VTEC, the A/F dropped to something like 11.0 and slowly leaned out to like 11.9/12 by 7500. Like I said, it's rich...LOL
 
Well he is running a tune off a friends tuned B20v so it's to be expected. Car still pulls damn good though because it's lighter than a baby's fart.
I've seen/heard/smelled some baby farts that would make a grown man cry...but yes, she's pretty pig rich. Is it safe? HAHAHA, yeah. Could it use improvement to pick up a few more hp/tq? Yes...probably about another 10-15, MAYBE 20whp. My buddy dynoed 176whp on this tune on his B20/V setup, but he was running a stock TB and B16 cams. I've got a Skunk2 IM, Omni 68mm TB, GSR cams, and phenolic TB/IM spacers. Not that that would make much more of a difference, but with a solid tune, it'd probably be good for at least 15-20 more HP.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Motor came in today. Looks kinda of bad honestly, like it's been sitting outside, but all we need it for is the block, crank and rods. Hoping to get started next week ordering parts.
 
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