You will not need camber correction for a 1" drop so don't worry about that. Search, lot's of info out there re shocks, springs, bang for the buck, etc suspension, most people lean towards the Koni/Ground Control setup though there are cheaper decent ways to go about it. Personally, I'm a big fan of OEM Honda for tie rods, bearings, etc., you know, important stuff, I'd order from Majestic or hondapartscheap.com....

 

How much of a drop before you need to start worrying about camber? I will order OEM for most of the other parts. Thanks for the advice!

H&R Sports or OE Sports, Eibach Pro-Kit.

Koni STR.T, should be going on sale soon.

Good recommendations! They all are around the same price, and all the same quality I'm assuming.

Are you saying I should get those Koni STR.T? I have looked at those and thought about getting them. Where will they be going on sale?

I ran KYB AGX struts and a eibach spring kit along with the bushing kit. Rode good and handled good.

As far as your "steering gear bellow," aka rack boot, they're pretty much all the same. I got a pair of them from Advance auto for like $40 for the "premium" Moog brand.

As far as the other steering parts like ball joints, tie-rod ends and such OE are good. If you get them from a chain store(napa, advance, auto zone, o'rileys etc) get one of the better brands like Moog. The cheap ass $13.99 specials are a cheap fix and don't last. Get something with a warranty and make photo copies of the receipts(some places use thermal paper and it fades quickly also computer systems don't save all of your purchases).

You should jack your car up and check or loose or worn front end parts. Popping sounds could be from the strut, ball joint, sway bar end links or just about anything

Thanks! I will check the front end today, it scares me because it doesn't sound safe haha. I will get all the suspension ordered ASAP!

 

H&R Sports or OE Sports, Eibach Pro-Kit.

Koni STR.T, should be going on sale soon.

 

I think the sale's on right now, actually

 

I ran KYB AGX struts and a eibach spring kit along with the bushing kit. Rode good and handled good.

As far as your "steering gear bellow," aka rack boot, they're pretty much all the same. I got a pair of them from Advance auto for like $40 for the "premium" Moog brand.

As far as the other steering parts like ball joints, tie-rod ends and such OE are good. If you get them from a chain store(napa, advance, auto zone, o'rileys etc) get one of the better brands like Moog. The cheap ass $13.99 specials are a cheap fix and don't last. Get something with a warranty and make photo copies of the receipts(some places use thermal paper and it fades quickly also computer systems don't save all of your purchases).

You should jack your car up and check or loose or worn front end parts. Popping sounds could be from the strut, ball joint, sway bar end links or just about anything

 

If someone wouldn't mind making a list of all the things that I should be replacing it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for all the help so far guys!
Jeremy

 

I found the sale, right now they are doing a deal where if you buy the struts you get a sale on Tein springs. How are those springs? Good for a daily driver?

Also they have the Tein High Tech Springs that give a 1.3 front drop and 1.1 rear. Total price $433(with struts)
Or the Tein S. Tech Springs that give a 1.9 front drop and 1.7 rear. Total price $418(with struts)
http://www.tunersports.com/shopping-cart.php
What do you guys think?
Jeremy

 

If it were me I would go for the 1.9f 1.7r setup because its cheaper and better looking but I dont know anything about tein. Also this is just a theory of mine but I think every inch lowered on a 6th gen gives -1deg camber, my car is lowered somewhere in the range of 4-4.25in and when I got an alignments they said it had -4.75 deg of camber and with my camber kit im still at -1 all around because my fronts wont adjust any more.

 

I dropped the front of my car at least 3", maybe more, and I'm at 1.5 degrees of camber with no correction, but my car was also crazy nose high on it's stock springs...and it's a 5th gen, basically the same suspension but there are minor differences so...red apples and green apples as opposed to apples and oranges?

Jeremy, your list is yours to make, get what you feel you need, you've been advised well. When I did my car, I checked everything, replaced what was needed, then started on my suspension with shocks and springs/sleeves etc, if I needed bushings, tie rods, ball joints, etc., I would have done them first. My best advice here is to not replace anything that doesn't need to be replaced so check everything first:

Ball Joints
Bearings
Bushings
Tie Rods
Brakes
Tires

Mechanical stuff like timing belt, accessory belts, dizzy cap and rotor, spark plug, filters, I made sure ALL this stuff was sorted out before I did my first "Upgrayedd"...

 

Suspension List
Total: $940.66
1. Struts: Koni STR.T Orange: $265.98
a. Koni STR.T Orange Shocks SALE (8050-1011 & 8050-1016) 96-00 Civic « Free Shipping
2. Springs:
a. Tein S. Tech: $149.14
i. 1.5” Drop
1. Tein S.Tech Springs SALE « Tein Lowering Springs « Free Shipping
b. Tein High Tech: $164.25
i. 1.2” Drop
1. Tein High.Tech Springs SALE (SKA24-BUB00) 96-00 Civic (EJ6 - EJ7 - EJ8 « Free Shipping
3. Bushings: Energy Suspension Kit: 132.35
a. 1996-2000 Honda Civic Suspension Bushing Kit - Suspension - Energy Suspension 96-00 Civic Suspension Bushing Kit - 6008-03140435 - PartsGeek
4. Upper Control Arms: Set Includes Upper & Lower: $149.95
a. 1996-1998 Honda Civic Front Upper & Lower Stamped Steel Control Arm (Set of 4) at 1AAuto.com
5. Upper Ball Joints: Mevotech Part #MK90469: $22.79x2
a. More Information for MEVOTECH MK90469
6. Inner Tie Rods: Moog Part # EV367: $38.79x2
a. More Information for MOOG EV367
7. Outer Tie Rods: Moog: $18.30x2
a. Front right Outer Part #ES3331R
i. More Information for MOOG ES3331R
b. Left Front Outer Part #ES3332R
i. More Information for MOOG ES3332R
8. Rack & Pinion Bellow: Beck/Arnley Part #1032947: $12.95x2
a. More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1032947
9. Lower Ball Joints: Moog Part #K9802: $28.79x2
a. More Information for MOOG K9802

Yikes!!! Expensive... Any opinions on this? I really don't feel like putting a grand into my car right now, could I just replace bushings in certain parts instead of buying new? Just curious.

Thanks Again guys,
Jeremy

 

Suspension List
Total: $940.66
1. Struts: Koni STR.T Orange: $265.98 - not bad
a. Koni STR.T Orange Shocks SALE (8050-1011 & 8050-1016) 96-00 Civic « Free Shipping
2. Springs:
a. Tein S. Tech: $149.14 - not bad
i. 1.5” Drop
1. Tein S.Tech Springs SALE « Tein Lowering Springs « Free Shipping
b. Tein High Tech: $164.25 - Uh, how many sets of springs do you anticipate installing here?
i. 1.2” Drop
1. Tein High.Tech Springs SALE (SKA24-BUB00) 96-00 Civic (EJ6 - EJ7 - EJ8 « Free Shipping - again, how many sets of springs do you anticipate installing here?
3. Bushings: Energy Suspension Kit: 132.35 - You've been warned. Get hardrace or buyers remorse, the choice is yours
a. 1996-2000 Honda Civic Suspension Bushing Kit - Suspension - Energy Suspension 96-00 Civic Suspension Bushing Kit - 6008-03140435 - PartsGeek
4. Upper Control Arms: Set Includes Upper & Lower: $149.95 - still not clear on why you need these, they hardly ever go bad and are serviceable
a. 1996-1998 Honda Civic Front Upper & Lower Stamped Steel Control Arm (Set of 4) at 1AAuto.com - still seems like you are going nuclear and not focusing on what you need, just blowing it all up
5. Upper Ball Joints: Mevotech Part #MK90469: $22.79x2 - Good god man, upper arm and they don't come with these? What the hell are these? Get OEM or Moog...or buyers remorse
a. More Information for MEVOTECH MK90469
6. Inner Tie Rods: Moog Part # EV367: $38.79x2 - still having a hard time believing you really need all this stuff...
a. More Information for MOOG EV367
7. Outer Tie Rods: Moog: $18.30x2
a. Front right Outer Part #ES3331R - front right outer what?
i. More Information for MOOG ES3331R
b. Left Front Outer Part #ES3332R - Tie rods? I mean, you know, if you really need them, get them
i. More Information for MOOG ES3332R
8. Rack & Pinion Bellow: Beck/Arnley Part #1032947: $12.95x2 - If not OEM, the BA would be my 2nd choice
a. More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1032947
9. Lower Ball Joints: Moog Part #K9802: $28.79x2 - Damn, this is one seriously worn out Civic lol
a. More Information for MOOG K9802

Yikes!!! Expensive... Any opinions on this? I really don't feel like putting a grand into my car right now, could I just replace bushings in certain parts instead of buying new? Just curious.

Thanks Again guys,
Jeremy

C'mon man, you can't possibly need everything on this list. My advice: Return to the drawing board and start over, unless you own the loosest clunkiest worn out car man has ever seen...you probably don't need all this stuff. I'm certain some of this stuff is duplicated on your list, a-arms that don't come with ball joints, 3 sets of springs, etc...do over

 

he has it demarcated they're either/or options.

let me pull up my costing since I'm a month away from pulling the trigger on an H-tech/STR.T combo myself...

 

Why are you choosing the H-tech springs vs the S-tech? Just trying to get some opinions because I'm having trouble deciding...

 

I've got the same prices for the STRs and the springs as you, $430 is pretty bitchin' considering yellows are still $500 for just the shocks

 

Dude.....

Back up the bus. If you are that unsure of what you need, find a trusted tech through your friends and have it inspected. Cost you tops .7hrs for a thorough inspection, and there won't be any guess work involved.

Spend your money in the right place, and OEM is the way to go for chassis parts. Unfortunately there are no watch dogs for quality, no standards to follow. The OEM stuff lasts, that's the quality you want, if you can afford it. Pay a little now...you'll pay a lot later.

Cheers

 

Alright guys, I jumped a little overboard. I got frustrated and started looking at parts before I knew what I needed.

I just finished jacking up the car and inspecting it. I took some pictures.

The popping and rattling seems to be coming from the "ball & socket" on the tie rod. I can wiggle the whole thing (holding each side of the rotor) back and forth about a 1/4-1/2". The Tie rod "ball" moves inside the socket when I wiggle it, not sure if it's suppose to have that much play. Also the Upper Control Arm wiggles as well, not sure if there are suppose to be bushings in it because I can't see any or they are just that deteriorated.

My new parts list:
Struts
Springs
Bushings (So no Energy suspension kit??)
Tie Rod inner and outer (not sure if I need both or just outer)
Upper control arm "bushings?"

Thanks for the help guys once again

 

If you are calling inner and outer tie rods....I'm quite sure you didn't pull the rack bellow to properly inspect the tie rod ends properly and PROVE what you need. The one thing I can't support is someone wasting money on parts they do not need.

Upper control arms and it's ball joint are supposed to be checked with the suspension loaded, checked for radial play and axial. where the lower is only allowed .020" axial play. Tie rods are 0.000 play with the suspension compressed and the steering wheel turned side to side by an assistant. The outer tie rods are generally checked with hand force only by pulling down and up on them if they check ok on side to side play. Using water pump pliers to check them is not an acceptable practise.

Everything has a spec and a procedure. Too many parts get replaced "cause there is play" from my understanding, the engineer should know best, as he made it. Ya, sometimes there are TSB's for a miscalculation, but it's rare. Some GM's are allowed .125" axial play on ballpoints due to their design and it's inability to separate due to its engineering qualities. Too many times we get vehicles in that "need" chassis parts..or others for that matter. Educate. If that means paying a pro to show and teach, it's money well spent.

Best of luck
That's my rant for this year!!

 

Take it somewhere, got it lol I will get it checked out, hopefully just tell me what parts I need, buy them, install them, and then an alignment. Cool?

 

That would be best, even better is to have them physically show you the problems and how they checked it. Take that information and verify the validity of it. If they won't take you in and show you (confirm they will allow it before accepting them to look at it) then run for the hills. I like the word PROVE it! If they are not willing to show you and why...be skeptical. If the tell you a tie rod is pooched, have them prove it. Don't be scared to question a call, I do it to my techs all the time at work. Sure, I'm qualified to do that but I've had customers ask me as well. I care about doing it right. My techs know, if you can't prove it, keep looking. If you don't wanna prove it...find another job. In saying this don't forget you get more with sugar than you do with salt, so don't be an arrogant shit smart ass when discussing the issues, and the proof. Sometimes it's better to act a little smarter, and calmer than your average bear.

Cheers

Oh... As for your springs, eibach or hr. Those are my top picks. People get coil overs, however most don't realize that every time you play with them...you need an alignment. If you don't have an alignment rack, get a set spring and strut. Less hassle in the long run.

 

New springs will settle after a couple hundred miles or so too, keep that in mind when you go for alignment, you may want to do a tape measure alignment yourself, put some miles on the new suspension, and then pay for the professional alignment.

Also, if you don't want to blow out all your "pivot point" bushings, you would be wise to do some research regarding some key do's and do not's relating to changing your ride height...if you miss these steps, well, sucks to be you out there replacing all your bushings lol, do not miss these steps. It is covered here in an older thread...

 

It's called bushing wind-up. You have to loosen all the bolts pertaining to your suspension and tighten at ride height. That way you don't twist out the centre of the bushing from the rubber. Tedious but necessary for a proper job.