redline is 6500rpm but fuel cut is like 7200rpm. what computer are you running with the swap (should be a pm6)

 

Well, if it were me, I'd make sure my speedo is telling me the truth! Have someone drive along side you down the highway and see it the speedo is reading accurately. If it's not I'd probably start with changing the VSS.

If you don't change it, I don't for-see it causing you any major damage but I'd rather have something fixed than broken.

 

VSS is inside the cluster. Did the speedo work correctly before the swap?

Also, it sounds like you are tooth off on the cam gear.

 

VSS is inside the cluster.

I thought the VSS was the plug on the back of the Transmission?

 

I have the pm6 ecu.

Also I could have sworn it was the other way round. 92+ is in the cluster. The reason for me thinking that is because they are electronic on those. Could be wrong and thinking of something totally different though, like usual lol.

If it isn't, what is the thing on the back of transmission where the cable goes in?

Im pretty sure my speedo is right, will have to get someone to ride next to me. But when Im behind people we are usually doing around the speed limit. Except the other people that like to go fast too But I will check it.

One tooth off on cam, what would that cause? I only ask because it runs fine once the check engine light comes on. I would have thought it would always run a bit wrong, if you will, no matter what the ecu thinks.

But for some reason I don't think the VSS would cause it to run like crap when the code hasn't been thrown yet. Then work fine when it does, car is ass backwards lol.

 

One tooth off on cam, what would that cause? I only ask because it runs fine once the check engine light comes on. I would have thought it would always run a bit wrong, if you will, no matter what the ecu thinks.

because

It stutters really bad and barely moves until up over 2000 RPM, then it moves.

that might be why he says a tooth off on the cam. my d16a6 had similar problem when i bought it and it was a tooth off on the cam. if you want pics i can post them up later on the timing marks. Checking your timing is simple and would be the cheapest fix/check you can do.

 

^^^

this is true.

 

Ok will check timing tomorrow, I know how to do it as long as they put it all together right lol.

So what is the thing on the back of the transmission that the cable goes into? Is that just simply for the speedometer and not the VSS. Any ideas where to get one? Looks like if I have to replace it, it will have to be ordered. Or should I just get another cluster?

Thanks for the info, trying to learn these Hondas. This is my first.

 

I didn't have a speedo cable for the longest time and it threw a vss code for the longest time on a virgin PM7 but as soon as it was replaced it went away.

Have you cleared the codes recently and then see what new codes it throws? it might just be stuck in the memory.

 

Here is cam timing marks and just make sure the crank pulley stays on 0. this is easy to check and adjust.

if you need a reference just go here
Replacing timing belt and water pump on Honda CRX Si.

 

Maybe my timing is off, buddy of mine showed me and we did it after the swap. However I don't think it's right by looking at those pictures. Going to check it out now, thanks for the pics

Will post once I have checked it and made any necessary adjustments.

 

Actually it looks right, just checked it. Got to clear up some space on my camera and will upload some pics.

 

Ok got pictures. A little blurry, but should be clear enough to make out the marks.

First is the crank mark:
CRX :: DSCF0914.jpg picture by d_wiegand3 - Photobucket

And the Cam mark. It looks a little off, but I think 1 tooth would still be off by the same tiny amount.
CRX :: DSCF0915.jpg picture by d_wiegand3 - Photobucket

Hope those work, had to make photo bucket account. Never used it before lol

 

2 horizontal lines on the sides of the cam pulley should be level with the head surface when putting the belt on. It will move a little when you get it all done, but not a lot.

 

on a D15, yes (and Y series as well). but on the A6 you point the lone ranger mark on the cam gear towards the notch on the inner timing cover.


OP your mechanical timing looks fine.

 

Could have swore that A6 cam timing marks go off the 7 o'clock position

 

damn. i cant look at photobucket at work. i will check later but everyone here says it looks right so i wouldnt be worried about the timing on it, or at least the mechanical timing. I dont know how the VSS works on these. especially if your getting your speed to read on the cluster.
Some one help me. does the Stock SI use a VSS or just the HF

 

Have you cleared the codes recently and then see what new codes it throws? it might just be stuck in the memory.

Well I disconnected the battery while I was checking the timing and connected when done. That should have cleared the codes right?

If so, then I might be looking in the wrong place for my problem lol. I checked the codes, after driving it a bit and it is a steady blink. Does this mean its a code 1? I have counted the blinks before and this is just a steady blink, blink, blink, blink. And if that is a code 1, according to haynes, is oxygen content. I assume it means oxygen sensor. However I put a brand new one in the exhaust manifold, because it was missing when swap was complete.

Sorry for the wrong problem, it definitely started out a VSS problem. Guess that was fixed when I messed with the cable. Going to make sure its connected right, but would that cause the problem? I am at a loss again At least the title still fits the situation, dam sensors lol

 

Just messed with it some more, I think the ignition timing was off. I adjusted that (dont have the light) and it seemed to run quite a bit better. But still not as good as when the check engine light comes on. Might just have a mechanic look it over.

 

Clear the code. Even if u had a code 1 the ecu would still try to correct it. It also sounds like ur timing is off just a lil. I would go to a auto parts store that loans them out and chck timing.

 

d16a6 problems

i bought a 90 civic hb about a year ago. it used to be an auto but was converter to a 5sp with a d16a6 swap. it had a pg7 ecu in it when i bought it. in the last month ive had the worst luck with this car. ranging from forgetting to put the hood pins in, my + terminal falling off the battery and grounding. resulting in a blown ecu and my alt catching fire. ne who. i put a pm6 ecu in it (bought it for $20) and had a bunch of overheating problems (which after blowing a rad hose out and replacing that and replacing the thermostat. i found out that the overheating was caused by my HOOD!. when i forgot the pins it bent the hood and wouldnt let the hot air out.) but now that my cars running. its burning oil like u wouldnt believe and its throwing a check engine light at me. but the light only comes on after driving for like 6-10miles. the ecu is throwing a code. 17 blinks in a row. which i looked up and people claim its the vss sensor. the speedometer needle bobs but it seems to be keeping pretty accurate. the car dosent overheat ne more really. but ive noticed ever since it started overheating the heater has become bipolar. itll get hot. then freezing cold all of a sudden. then go back. idk if that has ne thing to do with it.(or maybe another upcoming problem). also the motor is acting quite funny. it has trouble starting up. (my guess was the oil on the plugs) and it smokes sometimes but not always. but once it starts up and gets warm it runs fine. other than the light. so im thinking maybe were having a similar problem. im buying a new d16a6 this weekend. whoever owned this car b4 me was an idiot and im gunna fix his wiring mess while im at it. any help would be greatly appreciated