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OP just to contribute my friend's JDM (single wire primary O2) 1996 OBD2A D15Z7 Civic with CVT recently went for swap to manual.

Currently most hardware dropped in but still maintaining auto ecu (IACV no change).

Car managed to crank, warmed up and rev cut 7500rpms stationary. Only blinking D (for auto ecu related error) and no CEL yet.

Read from few places there should be CEL or something but will update again tomorrow when the car goes for drive test. Maybe the CEL may come one when it is in motion but who knows.

Will update tomorrow.
 
OP just to contribute my friend's JDM (single wire primary O2) 1996 OBD2A D15Z7 Civic with CVT recently went for swap to manual.

Currently most hardware dropped in but still maintaining auto ecu (IACV no change).

Car managed to crank, warmed up and rev cut 7500rpms stationary. Only blinking D (for auto ecu related error) and no CEL yet.

Read from few places there should be CEL or something but will update again tomorrow when the car goes for drive test. Maybe the CEL may come one when it is in motion but who knows.

Will update tomorrow.
Update on the swap:

Still using auto ECU, No engine CEL (not gearbox CEL) at all and drives great.

But will have random idling glitch every now and then probably due to the inherent auto ECU setting. To eliminate that proper manual ecu is a must!
 
greetings!
done my swap, got another car!
but still without reverse light.
can anyone tell me which plug is for the reverse? which one connects with the reverse sensor in the tranny?
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98_a-plug.jpg
thanks.
The reverse signal is not on the ecu as the ecu doesn't detect reverse. All you need to do is to run 2 wires connecting the reverse switch on the manual transmission itself, go through the firewall and tap it to the reverse light circuit.

Presumably you are using the auto harness just look at the main connector (14P for EK/EJ Civics) that connects to your auto shifter. Just above the two thick black starter wires there are two smaller wires green & yellow. connect the two wires run from the tranny to the green & yellow. Polarity isn't important as you're just completing the circuit.
 
hi guys im new to this forum. for a d16y7 with the y7 mani and TB, can you use the auto IACV? this is my problem:
i got a CEL light for IACV, so i went to buy one, and the IACV for M/T has 2 screws when the one i needed replaced had 4 which is the A/T. the car was converted from auto to manual by the previous owner and it looks to me that he was using the automatic IACV (it is 3-wire). i replaced it and my CEL is still on and i idle at 900rpm. my question is can i just adjust the idle and keep the IACV? thanks and sorry if im posting in a wrong thread or something
 
hi guys im new to this forum. for a d16y7 with the y7 mani and TB, can you use the auto IACV? this is my problem:
i got a CEL light for IACV, so i went to buy one, and the IACV for M/T has 2 screws when the one i needed replaced had 4 which is the A/T. the car was converted from auto to manual by the previous owner and it looks to me that he was using the automatic IACV (it is 3-wire). i replaced it and my CEL is still on and i idle at 900rpm. my question is can i just adjust the idle and keep the IACV? thanks and sorry if im posting in a wrong thread or something
3 wire IACV will work with auto ecu only. 2 wire IACV with manual ecu only.

You cannot use 3 wire IACV on manual ecu OR use 2 wire IACV with auto ecu.

To install manual type IACV you need to modify the intake manifold and jump 1 wire on the ECU plugs and IACV plug fix. Google it.

First you need to identify what ECU is on the car now (auto or manual). If it is auto ecu then it is not the IACV. What code is the CEL throwing?
 
i noticed that u miss out the radiator for manual n auto transmission are different, Iam swapping mine soon, n ur list definetly helps.
but one question tho. Can I use back my auto radiator..? cause there are 2 hoses for cooling the auto transmission oiil..? wat am I gonna do with those 2 pipes sticking out from the radiator?
 
alright.. thanks.

few more questions. I heard that the distributor for auto n manual engine are different. Is that true? and also the throttle body, either auto or manual has the TPS or MAP sensor on the throttle body..
Need some clarification. TQ.
 
alright.. thanks.

few more questions. I heard that the distributor for auto n manual engine are different. Is that true? and also the throttle body, either auto or manual has the TPS or MAP sensor on the throttle body..
Need some clarification. TQ.
At least for obd2 Civics, auto and manual distributor are the same. For the TPS & MAP is same story. The essential difference between auto and manual is the IACV at the intake manifold. Auto uses 3 wire type and manual uses 2 wire type. Both are physically and mechanically different and not interchangeable. Their mounting location is also different.
 
i noticed that u miss out the radiator for manual n auto transmission are different, Iam swapping mine soon, n ur list definetly helps.
but one question tho. Can I use back my auto radiator..? cause there are 2 hoses for cooling the auto transmission oiil..? wat am I gonna do with those 2 pipes sticking out from the radiator?
Just an idea, you could always use the tranny cooler in the rad to act as an oil cooler for the engine....... Just an idea
if you do that then you can also put the oil filter somewhere so you don't drench the subframe and lower engine parts with oil everytime you change the oil :)
 
ok i got the reverse lights. anyone know how to hook the starter lines up to the clutch pedal with a relay?
hopefully you've gotten it since you've posted it, but if not, a real qick answer to your question,
wire a boshe style relay to connect your clutch switch and starter interupt from your auto, on the relay connect;
the two thick black wires to termanal 30 and 87 on the relay,
run a fused hot in ign wire to one side of the clutch switch,
from the other side of the clutch switch run a wire to termanal 85 on the relay,
on termanal 86 on the relay run a wire to a known good ground.
once all wired up when the key is on, and the clutch is pushed in the relay will switch letting you triger the starter solinoid to start the car,
hope this helps

P.S. there is a really nice relay connector that makes this really easy, it has 2 thick wires that connect to the 2 thick black wires, and 2 thin wires that connect to the fused ign hot from the clutch sw and a ground to control the relay coil.

a nother option is reverse the ign hot and ground on the relay control side
so run a fused ign hot wire to the relay, from the relay run it to the clutch sw, then from the clutch sw to a ground.

hope this helps atleast someone out :)
 
Just an idea, you could always use the tranny cooler in the rad to act as an oil cooler for the engine....... Just an idea
if you do that then you can also put the oil filter somewhere so you don't drench the subframe and lower engine parts with oil everytime you change the oil :)
Good idea!
 
^^^^ Thank you :)
 
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