need to take the head off and check the valves to make sure your good to go. why didnt ya put a new belt on before the install? how fast were ya going when it broke?

 

the belt looked brand new and i was only gonna drive it like that for a while untill i could save enough money to put a new one on. i turned a corner stomped on it in first and shifted into second and it shut right offand i rolled to a stop.. how hard is it to take off the head and if they are bent then what should i do? where could i even get one?

 

parts store for a 89 integra i believe

to check ya need to remove the valve cover then the cam caps then the cams them self then the head bolts then Me my self would have it cheacked at machine shop. or you might be able to see by looking at them from under the head when ya remove it look for crooked valve heads. going that fast ya might have bent some but ya wont know till ya take it apart

 

parts store for a 89 integra i believe

Timing belt he would need is from a 1988 2.0 si lude.

 

Was it silent when it broke or did it go bang,I've had three honda belts go on P2V contact engines,all at low revs so cam stalls,breaks the belt,but no contact,you may be lucky.

 

x2. Take the cams out and than do a compression test. This could save your life...I took a head off once when there was nothing wrong with it, its a pretty easy way to blow through 300 bucks when all you could have spent was 60.

 

if u bent or broke something it pretty much makes an unmistable sound. honestly i know it isin right but if i were u and how low funds and wasnt to keen on removing the whole head id just replace the belt and see if it ran right. if its broke as long as its idling i doubt u could do much worse i mean the thing prolly wont even start if it bad enough to do anymore dmg

 

this is NOT the way you go about a problem. thats just expecting the worst hoping for the best. this throws any reliability out the window. and if the thing does even run.. and he DID bend a cvalve. whats he gonna say if he decides to sell the car. "yea so the timing belt snapped once before. so i just replaced the belt becuase i didnt have the money to do it right" or even not tell the person. and thats being shady IMO..


@ OP. no matter what man. dont cut corners. thats what the "tuners" of the 90's did proof of that is the multi colored body kits.

do what you have to i know its nto pleasant. but the best thing is to start with teh cheapest ways and go from there. a compression test - if failed. do a leakdown- if that fails. then pull the head and see exactly whats causing the previous tests to fail.

replace whats needed. and have a machine shop look it over to make sure everything is perfect. put the head back on. and use a new timing belt. make sure you double check everything before starting it back up. and enjoy

 

yeah me and my dad are going to put a new belt on it and turn it over by hand and listen to see if we hear anything.. i sure i hope i get lucky but so far ive had the worst luck doing the swap.. if they are bent do i have to replace the whole head?? ive been looking around on the net and cant find anything on where to get one... o and there was no bang or anything the motor just died right away and i rolled to a stop then had a friend tow me home..

 

i know cutting corners isnt the way to go and ive learned that lesson in the worst way possible.. but i can to the comp test and what not then ill go from there..

 

If your going this route you need to do a leak down test not a compression test. Good lucjk man hope ya didnt fudge anything up.

 

because your motor is an interference design, i would say you're 99% screwed on the head being damaged.

 

Doubt it..Ive had 2 a6's do the same..all good with a new belt.

If a valve head came off while it was running the damage is already done. Spin it by hand to see if it binds..if not, throw a belt on it and fire it up. Problem solved.

 

get a bore scope. Best tool ive ever bought, goes down through the plug hole and you can see the top of the pistons and check for kiss marks.

 

id definitely check out the springs and retainers from the top first, then toss a belt on and see what happens. its a lot less work than taking it apart to find out nothing is wrong.

 

spin just the cams or spin it when the new belt is on?? how do i do a leak down test?? im new to this forgive me.. lol

 

Put a timing belt back on it, spin the crank with a ratchet a couples rounds. If no touchy feely fire it up, see if shes runs on all 4

 

but u dont fully understand what im saying...if its fubared and if the pistons and valves meet when he puts a new belt on and resets the timing.. guess what its already touched and its fubared ..sure check the springs and anything u might be able to see with the naked eye first. but its a hassle to pull everything off and pull the head to find out that nothing is wrong..

nothing toward the op but it seems as he dosent ahve alot of mechanical knowledge so it would save him alot of greef from trying to pull the head and valves and everything.

 

im not saying pull the valves spend 60$ total on everything shit.. pull the head off and just look at it.. 40$ for a hg, and 20 on a belt. what else would he lose maybe oil, and coolant but that shit is a dime a dozen.. id rather have a slightly fucked up pistons then trying to start it and having a totally fucked pistons then your moving into new pistons, barrings, belt, hg, ect.. anyway.. so you might as well just pull the head and checking it. halfassing a zc will bite you in the ass.. trust me.

 

i can pull the head i dont exactly kno how but i can learn and i have the manual for my car but of course its not the same motor.. if i do pull the head i would have help doing it also.. i will probably take the vc off and look at everything.. the cams are still real close to top dead center so hopefully i didn't mess anything up.. i will also look at the pistons the best i can to look for anything abnormal.. i got the motor from got-jdm.com and they warranty the t-belt and everything internal for 6 months so its their fault.. i will be calling them to see what their going to do about it..

 

the cams are still real close to top dead center so hopefully i didn't mess anything up..

that in itself doesn't mean much - just be aware that when the arrows on the cams are pointing up, the valves on #2 and #3 are open (also on #4, but only slightly) - if you try to rotate the crank to bring it to top dead center, you will hit the valves on #2 and #3 which will stop you from turning the crank or the valves will try to close and rotate the cams - i would take the camshafts out, bring crank to TDC, put the cams back in at TDC, put a new belt on and do a compression test - most of the time when the valves are bent, it is very slight and you won't be able to tell by looking if they are completely closing

 

also source the reason why the timing belt snap, For example if the water pumped siezed and you put a new belt on it is bound to happen again.

 

or you can skip the whole checking part, and just throw on another belt and see what it does...

ive snapped one in 2nd gear when i was spinning and around 6000rpms it jumped off, and i almost went threw the windshield... but i have a vitara build, so i knew i was good to go

 

i feel bad for this bro,

pull the valve cover and look if theres any open valves or loose rocker arms if they are pull the head...

 

Here is what I would do:

1)Go out and buy a belt since you will need one anyway.
2)install it all well and check the valve clearances. If the car was running right your valve clearances should be the same. If there are any valves that are even slightly bent you will see a very wide gap on that valve.
3) if above checks out you can go ahead and crank it up or go to step 4 for more peace of mind
4) do a leak down test and/or a compression test to see if all cylinders are good, if all checks out you’re good to go.

 

[ i would take the camshafts out, bring crank to TDC, put the cams back in at TDC, put a new belt on and do a compression test - most of the time when the valves are bent, it is very slight and you won't be able to tell by looking if they are completely closing[/QUOTE]

Thats the way I would go. This will save the agrivation of pullin the head off,well at least until you know if everthing is kool in their.

 

Pull the head, get some studs and a new gasket, Then if your valves are good then you know that you got some new security.

Say you put a new belt on and the valves are good later on turning a corner and getting on it the head gasket goes.

Take the head off, best way to be sure and your not trying to put a band aid on something that's worse.

 

i just bought a new timing belt yesterday and i think it was on too tight because when i had started the car it was making a whining noise.. so i pulled the t belt cover off to see if it was rubbing or sumthing and it wasn't.. so i put it back on then took it for a test drive..etc.. i was talking to a friend and asked him if the belt could have been too tight, he said it could be and if it was it would have made that whining noise so i think thats the reason why but not sure so i will check the water pump.. if i had known it could be to tight and/if it was it would make that noise i woulda just put a new one before i drove it.. i wish i had a camera so i could take a pic of the belt.. the new one looks identical.. so if the valves are bent can i replace just them? i mean if nothing else is damaged..

 

i just have to keep in mind its not how many times you fall its how many times you get BACK UP!!

 

valves and valve guides at the minimum if it did make contact... and hope you didnt damage the piston, thats if you did make contact...

 

yeah if u got the belt to tight it will whine ..although its really hard to get it that tight. u have to physically force it to get it that tight which u shouldnt have done in the first place its not like an alt belt