i replaced my trailer arm bushings and upper and rear control arms, it seems that there is a ton of play in the trailer arms like i can move them alot, how do i fix this?
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they slide from left to right, what did was i cut the old bushings out with a sawzall notch the metal sleeve and smacked it with a hammer and a chisel,then i got the new bushings from summit for 86$ ummm the urethane kit,i put the new bushings in the freezer for a couple of days then hammer them in with a hammer and socket extension (ghetto) lol but it worked i dont know if i need a rear lower tie down bar or a sway bar? whats the diffrence in the 2? before i hooked the camber kit and lower control arms up it seemed the trailer arms moved at ease but i am done now so the movement is min,i just got a lil scared when i could move the trailer arm all around, hey i just got started doin this stuff so i really dont know 2 much about it.
A rear tie bar will tie the two sides of the subframe together. A sway bar will connect the two rear control arms together effectively reducing "roll/sway" in the body of the car.
How much side to side movement do you have?
Nothing wrong with doing things yourself. I do all of my own work, I HATE paying somebody else to do something that I can do in my own garage. And sometimes ghetto works as good as anything else.
How much side to side movement do you have?
Nothing wrong with doing things yourself. I do all of my own work, I HATE paying somebody else to do something that I can do in my own garage. And sometimes ghetto works as good as anything else.
that's how we all learned to do things...trial and error and the errors teach us how to diagnose. I have a skunk2 lower tie bar on my EX...does it help? maybe..but my struts are so worn out that the car handles for crap anyway. I know, I know, it's not supposed to improve handling but it was easier than getting a sway bar. Plus, got rid of some creaks.
Actually any tie bar should improve handling of any car. By reinforcing key parts of the car's chassis you are eliminating flex from the chassis. Essentially with a 100% stiff car, every motion the car makes would be absorbed by the suspension (the way its supposed to be) rather than the suspension doing one part and the chassis doing another. Its sort of like installing a racing suspension, and running 175/70-13 all season tires. The sidewalls will flex so much that the suspension will barely be doing any work...the sidewall becomes your suspension. Also, the stiffer your suspension becomes, the more important chassis regidity becomes as well as there are more forces being encountered by the car.Pazzio1 said:
It sounds like you removed the metal sleeve as well as the rubber portion of the old bushing. If I am interpreting your method correctly, and I'd like to think that I am, then you made a mistake. As far as I know, you need to keep that sleeve in the trailing arm and the new poly bushing goes into that.
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yeah the new bushing came with a new metal sleeve as well as a pin that goes threw it.while i had it up in the air it seemed to really move at ease by hand,since then i have put it back together it handles pretty good i only have the coilovers set down a inch once the rear camber kit and lca was reinserted it was tight,the factory bushing has that pin molded in them to where this one you slide them threw.i dont know if that will pose a problem in the future.i don't know which to get now tie down bar or sway bar i am still not clear on the diffrence of the two or if they evan have anything to do with each other? thank you for you help.
I thought some of the others explained the differences pretty well. Lower tie bar strengthens chassis: sway bar reduces vehicle suspension/body roll.
Anyways, what kind of vehicle are we talking about? It's cheaper to add a tie bar than a sway bar if you don't have the right lower control arms, (most stockers don't come with the mounting holes for the end links).
Anyways, what kind of vehicle are we talking about? It's cheaper to add a tie bar than a sway bar if you don't have the right lower control arms, (most stockers don't come with the mounting holes for the end links).
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skunk2 coilover tokico ill shocks with only a 1-1/4 drop nothing to crazy,stuck on what to do next
There might be some interference with the lower tie bar if you want a rear sway bar. The bushings/brackets mount to the lower part of the chassis (that is currently spanned by the lower tie bar), where the bar is held in place. You would need to replace the lower control arms with ones from a vehicle that already had a rear sway bar, (they have additional holes in them for the stabilizer bar end links. Or, you can purchase a kit like Beaks that is a combo unit but the end links just clamp around the lcas. All depends on how much MORE money you want to spend but I like the setup you have already.
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cool thanks, money is like kinda of a issue but not really i have been buying piece buy piece and finally put them on. i wanna stay n/a but keep it dd also i figure get the suspension done first and while doin that buy engine parts.i am happy with the setup real happy,i think i will go ahead and get the s2 tie down.how important is the upper rear tie downs? s2 good shit? my one boy is king of knock and swears its junk....i think he cant afford it,plus i got the hook up with a wholesale dealer for s2
Put a bolt in the bolt hole with a nut on the end and 2 big washers covering each side of the whole. Fill the whole bushing with this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92665
Take the bolt out before it drys( if you get any on the hole or the bolt) and put it on the car. Let it dry and your done.
:alky:
Take the bolt out before it drys( if you get any on the hole or the bolt) and put it on the car. Let it dry and your done.
:alky:
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