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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Sounds good my friend, Im eyeballing and most likely gonna purchase the P2P-A34 Obd2a Ig we'll see when it gets heređź’Ş
Just got my P2P-A34 and its installed, I suppose the cars running better but still stuttering bad uphills and stuff at low speeds unless im always in first gear revving up to 5k :/. Either way I took a pic of these codes that the new P2P ecu picked up. P0450 evap emission sensor pressure switch. P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit bank sensor 1. P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit bank 1 single sensor. 3 new codes have arriveddd

Sounds good my friend, Im eyeballing and most likely gonna purchase the P2P-A34 Obd2a Ig we'll see when it gets heređź’Ş
I got my P2P-ecu today and installed it no problems. Im still stuttering pretty badly uphills at low speeds in 2nd gear unless im in 1st gear revving up to 5k yk. But the new P2P-A34 picked up 3 new codes. P0325 knock sensor circuit single sensor 1.
P0135 02 sensor heater circuit bank sensor 1.
P0450 evap emission pressure switch/sensor.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
If its more like a studder test your plug wires. Just based on your last post. It seems to be acting up under load
I just pulled off my intake manifold and looked under for the knock sensor, my knock sensor was broken off and there is a cut wire from what it looks like the where it plugged in. I just put in a new knock sensor today but the part that plugs into my knock sensor is cut off, I ordered that connection point but Im not sure how I would wire that in?

I just pulled off my intake manifold and looked under for the knock sensor, my knock sensor was broken off and there is a cut wire from what it looks like the where it plugged in. I just put in a new knock sensor today but the part that plugs into my knock sensor is cut off, I ordered that connection point but Im not sure how I would wire that in?
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this is the connector I bought which should b coming later on today.
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the bare wire goes to the sensor circled in red i believe.
/\/\/\ what he said. Thats where the broken single yellowish white/red wire you goes to. The sensor he's circled is the oil pressure switch. With it unplugged, the red oil can illuminated in your cluster at key on engine off wont work. If you find this to be the case, thats why. Run that single wire to the OPS, and the red oil can lamp will start working like its supposed to.

I think I've figured out that your post title likely describes the problem your describing:
  • D16Y8
  • HX
Those two things aint factory lol.

So you've done a Y8 engine swap, or a Y8 head swap. Are you still using the HX/Y5 engine harness?

If so, are you sure the Y5 harness even has has provisions for a knock sensor? Apparently this can vary (based on what schematics say).

Did the Y5 engine that came out have a knock sensor?
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
/\/\/\ what he said. Thats where the broken single yellowish white/red wire you goes to. The sensor he's circled is the oil pressure switch. With it unplugged, the red oil can illuminated in your cluster at key on engine off wont work. If you find this to be the case, thats why. Run that single wire to the OPS, and the red oil can lamp will start working like its supposed to. I think I've figured out that your post title likely describes the problem your describing:
  • D16Y8
  • HX
Those two things aint factory lol. So you've done a Y8 engine swap, or a Y8 head swap. Are you still using the HX/Y5 engine harness? If so, are you sure the Y5 harness even has has provisions for a knock sensor? Apparently this can vary (based on what schematics say). Did the Y5 engine that came out have a knock sensor?
Im not sure what wiring harness they used during the swap, I was told it had a swapped d16y8 into the car. Now im pretty sure its an entire swap and not just the head but Ill give it a look. I dont think it has the Y8 harness because I dont see no connection for the knock sensor, and if thats my OPS wire then yea it would make sense on why its still not working (knock sensor cel) still popping up.

Im not sure what wiring harness they used during the swap, I was told it had a swapped d16y8 into the car. Now im pretty sure its an entire swap and not just the head but Ill give it a look. I dont think it has the Y8 harness because I dont see no connection for the knock sensor, and if thats my OPS wire then yea it would make sense on why its still not working (knock sensor cel) still popping up.
Now how should I come about this? Should I purchase a 96 ex wiring harness or would it be difficult to wire the knock sensor into my ecu?
 
You'll just need schematics, that knock sensor connector pigtail you have, some lengths of wire, ECU terminals if terminals in the ECU connector dont currently exist, and some heatshrink and solder and/or good quality heatshrink butt connectors, and manually wire it in.

The chassis harness from the shock tower should have knock sensor provisions down to the ECU, you just need to verify. If it doesnt, you'll need to handle this to get it wired up.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
You'll just need schematics, that knock sensor connector pigtail you have, some lengths of wire, ECU terminals if terminals in the ECU connector dont currently exist, and some heatshrink and solder and/or good quality heatshrink butt connectors, and manually wire it in. The chassis harness from the shock tower should have knock sensor provisions down to the ECU, you just need to verify. If it doesnt, you'll need to handle this to get it wired up.
So I just looked into my connection points iat my ecu and looking at connecter D in the 6th pin theres supposed to be a red and blue wire. There isnt a red and blue wire connected into my "6th pin" spot I dont think they wired it in because the ecu they was using was A p2n and isnt throwing a code for my knock sensor probably cause its an hx ecu. So in my case I gotta purchase some wire and ecu pins. Any recommendations on wire I should purchase, Ill be running to harbor freight sometime next week and once all purchased I just run the wire all the way to my ecu and pin it in?
 
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