[89s1]

It also keeps the combustion chambers centered over the bores. :TU:

Nice build so far, keep up the good work.

 

[Sideway]

Sideway, I really hate to ask this at this point in your build.

But I noticed in your post #17 and #33 that you did not have the block dowels installed.

I hope you installed them before you dropped the head gasket and head over the ARP studs.

With out them the gasket can walk around between the block and head,

You might have just saved me a ton of hassle later on. After fighting with that cam gear so much, I bet I can get the head off and fully back on in under two hours.

If either the block machine shop or head shop failed to return the dowels, I certainly didn't notice.

Better safe than sorry; its coming back apart, lol.

Looking back at the pictures of the block, its not clear where they would seat (post #17, I see only the 10 holes that the studs go into). Hopefully the haynes manual will have some better pictures.

 

[BogusSVO]

The alignment dowels are about nothing more than cut tubes, the ARP head studs will pass thu them.

They should go in the circled spots.

 

[Mr.Fodo]

You forgot the 2 on the bottom also in that pic.

 

[BogusSVO]

I may have circled the wrong 2, but as far as i am aware, there are only 2 dowels and not 4. I can not think of any engine that has 4 alignment dowels on a single bank of cylinders, V8/V6 have 2 per bank.

 

[Mr.Fodo]

This thread is full of failed concerns lol! I guess it comes with the "noob" post count...

I based it off the pic specifically, you can see a slight step which could very well be the threads. I also thought I used 4 on my previous build but I must be mistaken... I order spare dowels just in case, which might be the source of the confusion.

But I pulled up a pic of the gasket to verify and you're correct, only 2 holes are enlarged for the dowels.

 

[Blu3]

Did you have to grind the webbing for the turbo to fit? I pretty much have the same go auto kit but I pieced mine together over a years period time, I definitely suggest doing emissions first or you will be taking the car back to stock to pass smog. You should be very pleased with the t3 60 trim, I know I am and I see full boost of 8 psi anywhere from 3000-3500 depending on gear and hills

 

[Sideway]

This thread is full of failed concerns lol! I guess it comes with the "noob" post count...

I based it off the pic specifically, you can see a slight step which could very well be the threads. I also thought I used 4 on my previous build but I must be mistaken... I order spare dowels just in case, which might be the source of the confusion.

But I pulled up a pic of the gasket to verify and you're correct, only 2 holes are enlarged for the dowels.

Be it 2 or 4, that was a great catch and I'm glad someone saw it; even if they were still embedded in the head, its worth pulling the head to check. I'll probably have time to do that this weekend.

Did you have to grind the webbing for the turbo to fit? I pretty much have the same go auto kit but I pieced mine together over a years period time, I definitely suggest doing emissions first or you will be taking the car back to stock to pass smog. You should be very pleased with the t3 60 trim, I know I am and I see full boost of 8 psi anywhere from 3000-3500 depending on gear and hills

No grinding yet, but depending on how I have to orient the turbo I may have to. The outlet position in the picture gives it the most clearance, but I don't know exactly which way it has to go for the kit (not pictures or instruction with kit, and I haven't been able to find any other builds using the exact same kit). I'll have to puzzle the pieces together and figure it out.

 

[Sideway]

Well crap, looks like I need to order some dowels.

Might need to grind them a bit too; block and head were both resurfaced.

Fortunately it looks like the ARP head studs/nuts are reusable.

 

[Sideway]

Received some parts from our friends at majestic honda; timing belt cover bolts, valve cover bolt, but, most importantly

Block Dowels.

Head is now on and torqued down again, and timing belt is properly tensioned.

Next up is welding the oil return line on my oil pan.

I should also have some pics of shiny new parts this week for my driveline:

- Mfactory differential (40mm)
- "Y8", "ex" B0000 transmission
- "Tuner" clutch/plate kit from LSD motorsports (went with the street disc, which is good for 257 ft-lbs) and got the d-series.org discount

I have to admit that I'm probably going to let a shop tackle the differential install.

Hopefully more pictures later this week!

 

[Sideway]

Some parts arrived today that should keep my drive train from exploding

I'll post a pic of the y8 transmission when I get it unpacked.

 

[Sideway]

Spring break!

Means I can make some progress (albeit not a huge amount).

Transmission was filthy, but at least I got what I paid for:

I did have a shop put the differential in for me. Replaced the bearings at the same time, but they didn't really need to be replaced. Everything else inside was in good shape.

I also welded on the return fitting for the turbo's oil drain

Got the oil pan, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and covers back on. I decided to get the emissions test before I install the turbo, so the stock exhaust is on for now. At this point its mostly following the hayes manual for re-installing accessories. Still need to figure out which should be replaced altogether.

I've also got some innovative motor mounts on order (steel, not the billet ones), but that should be the last of the aftermarket pieces before the turbo goes on.

Hoping to have the car moving under its own power before June

 

[honduh666]

Awesome build so far! Cant wait to see it done.

 

[Sideway]

Innovative mounts still haven't shipped. Not sure what they delay is there.

Got everything that was already on torqued.

Installed water bypass pipe, thermostat, distributor, alternator and breather chamber.

Won't have a power steering pump, or AC condenser. Not sure if I need the bracket that the condenser was on before.

I spent half an hour trying to figure out what bolt #12 goes to, and still haven't got it. I definitely have bolt #12 from when I took off the alternator.

I also took a couple mid-assembly reference photos.

I spent quite a while trying to find build threads that showed the partially assembled engines on a stand so I could piece components together.

I hope someone may be able to benefit from these at some point:

Oil filter and fuel and coolant hoses are next. Then wiring *cringe*

I'm leaving the fuel system stock until I get my emissions test.

 

[all_rice]

You'll need the condenser bracket if you plan on isinglass the front torque mount.

Also wondering what #12 is?
Maybe it's that extra bolt you some how always end up with? Lol

 

[mattliston]

you should send me that d16y7 manifold after you pass emissions. Mine has the grand canyon mounted on top of the cat

are you positive you have the #12 bolt? it is 65mm long (and titled as #13 on my diagram for a 97 coupe DX)

I used myhondapartsstore.com as my check

EDIT appreas it could be a tensioner bolt. Its been around 5 years since I have touched a singleslammer of my own

 

[Whoshot]

Damn sorry I missed this till now, looks dope so far. Glad you caught some of those issues with members help. Good to see people are paying attention. Keep it up.

 

[Sideway]

Not much progress today, just the oil filter.

Been looking through tons of pics, and the manual, trying to figure out what these two tapped holes on the left are.

Damn sorry I missed this till now, looks dope so far. Glad you caught some of those issues with members help. Good to see people are paying attention. Keep it up.

I still don't know how BogusSVO noticed the dowels missing, but it was an awesome catch

 

[Sideway]

Well, I finally got to pick and pull to check out some other hondas.

Took a bunch of pictures and videos, got a couple y7's, couple y8's. Even though the were all civics, not Del Sols, and not always the right year range, I learned a couple things:

Does anyone know what the name of that cap is, or where to get one? I rounded off two caps before giving up on getting on.

 

[mattliston]

freeze plug most likely. Should be one on the front as well. Just there to help drain out more coolant, like during headgasket jobs.

EDIT

Also might be locations where oil warmers/coolers draw from on equipped models.