Looks correct to me.

 

Yup, that's right. I would elimate the dashpot all together to clean things up a little but your plumbing is correct. Can elimate the fast idle solenoid as well and just leave it unplugged without any issues (assuming that you plug the port)

You can cap the PCV fitting BTW...I don't like sucking oil through my blower. Might need to make some adjustments to your throttle body stop screw depending on your pulley combination

 

Thanks for chiming in guys. I thought I had it right from reading a few threads (yours preludepatrick here and some others on other forums) and going over old installation notes, but wanted to be sure.

For now I’m going to hook up the FICV as the harness is a 90 civic SI, and Ill start by using a factory 90 Si ECU just to get everything running without codes. After that I may remove it as the ZC motors never had one anyway, and I assume the code can be removed during proper management tuning.

That does bring up a few questions for me though.

I need to do some more reading on the PCV elimination or converting to a catch can, but preludepatrick are you saying that you are just venting the black box on the back of the block to the atmosphere and have the brass fitting on the goose neck blocked? Please elaborate. I have been reading that a small boost / low HP setup like this a PCV valve is fine, over 10psi or 250+hp is when you really need to look at other venting options. Thoughts?

If I don’t hookup the dashpot vacuum line, again do I just block it off and the same with the bypass side? Won’t that cause issues with bypass? I am asking this because you said to eliminate it, and also because when I look at pictures of my old setup on my D16a6, I can see the dashpot lined directly into the Map. I cant figure out how I had the bypass plumbed.

Thanks for the help guys. Ill post up a “build” thread when I’m a little further along. I don’t want to jinx myself and have this project get stalled again. The biggest goal here is just to get it all back in the car and running by spring, but getting to the back of the block will be a pain in the arse once its in the car, so any PCV/black box changes Id like to get out of the way now. Keep in mind this is a stock internals rebuilt DOHC ZC, and for starters running the regular supplied pulley with no plans to go to anything over 8lbs of boost.

 

So I finally put in some more work just getting hoses together.
I’m a little concerned that some of the hoses are touching the charger housing. I’m not sure how much the housing heats up, and if it’s possible to damage the hoses.
The hoses are the coolant lines from the factory oil cooler on the ZC.

Anyone know if the amount of heat coming off the housing will be a problem for the hoses if they are touching it? As the D16A6 didn’t have the oil cooler, this never came up on it.

 

I would adjust that, just to be on the safe side. You don't want to find out at the most inopportune time.

 

I would find a way to cut/re-route the hoses. I doubt the blower will melt them but after time, the hoses will become hard, brittle, and may crack.

Hard to see how they're plumbed from that angle but it looks like they could be shortened so that they don't contact the blower.

 

I would find a way to cut/re-route the hoses. I doubt the blower will melt them but after time, the hoses will become hard, brittle, and may crack.

Hard to see how they're plumbed from that angle but it looks like they could be shortened so that they don't contact the blower.

The issue I've run into is that if I go to a hose thats short enought to miss the housing (and thats only by mm), the hose is kinked pretty bad.

From another forum I am on, most people has said that in their expereince with hoses right next to turbo housings, it wasnt a problem. I may have to try it like this as I just dont see a way around it.

Thanks guys!

 

Right, I see what you mean. Do you have any exhaust wrap? That would work well and provide you with a little extra piece of mind.

 

Thanks for the idea, I appreciate the feedback.