D Series Cylinder Head ID Codes
D15B1
1990 Std D15B1 4sp------PM9-5
1991 Std D15B1 4sp------PM9-3

D15B2
90 LX D15B2 5sp--------------PM3-9 (9/0) stamped rs of code
91 DX D15b2 5sp---------------PM8-12
93 EG4(EDM) D15B2 5sp-------PM3-8 (9/4) stamp

D15B7
94 DX D15B7 5sp-------PMS-1
95 DX D15b7 5sp-------PM9-5

D15B (JDM)
92 VTi D15B Auto--- -- P08-1 (9/1)<-- RS of Code

D15Z1
92 VX D15Z1 5sp------P07-1

D16A6
88 RT D16A6 Auto------PM3-7
90 Si 5spd---------------PM3-1
90 Si D16A6 5sp--------PM3-4

D16Z6
92 Si D16Z6 5sp------- P08-2 (9/2) stamped on RS of code.
93 Si D16Z6 5sp-------P08-4 (9/3) stamped on rs of head
93 EX D16Z6 5spd----- P08-4
93 EX D16Z6 5sp-------P08-3
94 EX D16z6 5 spd---- PO8-2
94 Si D16z6 5sp-------- P08-3
94 EX D16Z6 5sp--------P08-4
94 SI D16z6 5sp -------P08-5
95 EX D16Z6 Auto------P08-2

D16Y4
96 GLi D16Y4 5sp........P2A-2 "96" stamped on right

D16Y7
97 LX D16Y7 5sp-------P2F-HA-2
97 LX D16Y7 Auto------P2F-HA-4 also had USA and (9/6) stamped on it
98 DX D16Y7 5sp------P2F-HA-3 also has USA and (9/7) stamped on it
00 DX D16Y7 Auto -----P2F-HA-7

D16Y8
96 EX D16Y8 Auto------P2J-2 stamped 95 on rs of head
97 EX D16y8 5spd-----P2J-4 --- "97" stamped on the right
97 EX D16Y8 Auto-----P2J-6 "97" stamped on rs of head
97 EX D16Y8 Auto-----P2J-7
97 EX D16Y8 5sp-----P2J-6 "96" stamped on right side
98 EX D16Y8 Auto-----P23-2
99 EX D16Y8 5sp------P2J-4
00 EX D16Y8 5sp------P2J-3 "99" stamped on right side


Injector science
Stan Weiss' - Electronic Fuel Injector (EFI) Flow Data Table
RC Fuel Injection


compression calculator
Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks

How to Adjust D16 Valve Clearance
CAUTION:Always rotate engine in direction of normal rotation(counterclockwise as viewed from front of engine). Reverse rotation may cause timing belt to jump time.Rocker Arms are made of aluminum and can be damaged if lock nuts are overtightened so be careful.
Note: Valves should only be adjusted when engine is cold with temp of it less than 100 degrees F.

Step 1...Remove Valve Cover.Remove Upper Timing Belt Cover.Rotate Crankshaft counterclockwise until No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke.Up mark on camshaft pulley should be on top,TDC marks should align with cylinder head upper surface or TDC groove should align with pointer on back cover..see pic below

Step 2..Loosen adjusting screw lock nut on cylinder No. 1.Adjust valve clearance to spec on all valves for No. 1 cylinder.Turn Adjustment screw until a feeler guage slides back and forth with a slight drag.Tighten lock nut to spec and recheck valve adjustment..Cylinder No.1 is done

Step 3 Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise 180 degrees(camshaft pulley rotates 90 degrees) Up mark on camshaft pulley should be on the exhaust side.Adjust all valves for Cylinder No.3

Step 4 Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise 180 degrees(camshaft pulley rotates 90 degrees) Up mark on camshaft pulley should be down(both TDC grooves will be visible again).Adjust all valves for Cylinder No.4

Step 5 Rotate crankshaft counterclockwisw 180 degrees(camshaft pulley rotates 90 degrees) Up mark on camshaft pulley should be on the intake side.Adjust all valves for Cylinder No.2

Step 6 ..Ensure crankshaft pulley bolt is tightened to spec


Timing Belt Adjustment
CAUTION:Always rotate engine in direction of normal rotation(counterclockwise as viewed from front of engine). Reverse rotation may cause timing belt to jump time.

Note: Timing Belt should only be adjusted when engine is cold with temp of it less than 100 degrees F.

Step 1. Remove Valve Cover.Remove upper timing belt cover.Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise until No.1 cylinder is at TDC of compression stroke..see above pic.Loosen timing belt adjuster bolt 180 degrees,see pic below.

Step 2. Rotate crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise on camshaft pulley to create tension on timing belt. Tighten adjuster bolt to spec.Ensure crankshaft pulley bolt is tightened to spec.Reinstall valve cover,timing cover and your done!

 

mini me write up

This is a write-up based on a 1992 D16Z6 head being bolted onto a 1993 Civic LX with a D15B7 block. Like Spade’s SOHC Upgrades thread, this is a continual work in progress. If you are thinking about doing a mini-me swap on your 92-95 Civic using a D16Z6 head, then this is the place to be. I will do a complete walkthrough of the mini-me, including a shopping list of parts, tools needed, how to perform the swap, important things to look out for, what to expect when you finish, and ideas for future modifications. These instructions are for 92-95 Civic D15B7 DX, LX mini-me’s, but most of the stuff can be applied to CX’s with pistons with reliefs for 4 valves as well. If you have a question about doing a mini-me on a non-OBD I car, you can PM me and I’ll see if I can help. Note: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS SWAP ON A CIVIC VX, THE PISTONS HAVE TOO LARGE OF A DISH AND THE COMPRESSION WILL END UP BEING TOO LOW. Well…enough already let’s get to it!

1. What exactly is a “mini-me”?

A “mini-me” is an informal name for a D-Series SOHC VTEC head mated to a D-Series SOHC non-VTEC block. Most mini-me swaps consist of D16Y8 or D16Z6 heads onto USDM D15B, D16A6, or D16Y7 blocks. JDM D15b VTEC heads will work as well

2. Why should I do a mini-me swap?
I chose to do a mini-me swap after reading up on them and hearing that they put out a fair amount of power for how cheap they are. It is widely believed that this combination, with a thin D16Y8 head gasket, will produce a near 11:1 CR. However, after calculating the compression using the d-series compression calculator, I only came up with 10.1:1. To bump the compression a few more tenths, you can remove the middle layer from the Y8 head gasket. Theoretically, a stock mini-me with a Y8 head gasket should put out about as much power as a D16Z6, give or take a few horses. The raised compression makes up for the difference in displacement.

3. Okay, what parts do I need to buy?
For a Z6 mini-me swap you’ll need four basic things: a D16Z6 cylinder head (including valve cover, distributor, spark plugs, spark plug wires etc), D16Z6 timing belt, D16Y8 head gasket (D16Z6 works well also, but Y8 is a better, metal gasket) and P28 ECU (make sure you get an auto ECU for an auto, manual for manual).

IMPORTANT: Several places on the net and several people on Honda-Tech say that the VX (D15Z1) timing belt is the one to use for this swap because it is for a 1.5L VTEC. THIS IS INCORRECT! When I did the initial head swap, I used a VX timing belt. The VX timing belt was WAY too tight, and whined when the engine was at high rpm. I unfortunately did not discover this until the entire head was assembled. The VX timing belt has 103 teeth, where as the Z6 timing belt has 104 teeth, and the B7 belt 106 teeth. I was finally able to replace the VX timing belt with the Z6 timing belt, and the Z6 timing belt fit much better and didn’t whine. THE D16Z6 timing belt is the correct belt to use with a B7 block / Z6 head combination.

Note also: The D16Z6 and D15B7 spark plug wires are NOT interchangeable. You will need D16Z6 spark plug wires with this swap. Also, the 96-00 Civic EX’s have a 9.6:1 compression ratio, so the spark plugs from that motor will better with the higher compression than the stock Z6 ones. Honda Part # 98079-5614P, NGK ZFR6J-11.

You can use your stock intake and exhaust manifolds with the mini-me. All d-series manifolds are interchangeable. However, both the D16Z6 intake manifold and header flow much better than the D15’s…so if you can pick them up for a real cheap price, then definitely go for it. In addition to the main things, you’ll need little things, coolant and wire (to wire the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure to the ECU).

I however, wanted to make sure that the swap ran perfectly once I got it running so I picked up a few general maintenance things as well, such as a new distributor cap and rotor, new water pump, new spark plug wires, and a new valve cover gasket.

List of Parts:
Required:
D16Z6 Cylinder Head (Including distributor cap, valve cover, plugs/wires, VTEC solenoid, etc)
D16Z6 or D16Y8 Head Gasket
P28 ECU
D16Z6 Timing Belt
Wire and plug for VTEC oil pressure switch

Optional:
D16Z6 Intake Manifold
D16Z6 Exhaust Manifold
*If you remove your manifolds, make sure you get new gaskets

Recommended:
NEW OEM-
Water Pump (for the block you are using)
Spark Plugs (EX D16Y8)
Spark Plug Wires
Valve Cover Gasket
Distributor cap and rotor

I spent about $550 total when all was said and done. I paid $200 for the head, and $85 for the ECU. Random stuff kept adding up after that. $550 is comparable to a full Z6 swap, but remember this included a new timing belt, head gasket, etc.

4. What tools will I need to do the job?
Well, 95% of the job can be done with a 3/8 inch ratchet, 10-19mm sockets, and a set of screwdrivers. However, you will need a torque wrench so that you can torque the head bolts down correctly, and you will also need access to an air wrench when you do your timing belt to get the crank pulley off. You will also need wire cutters, and some electrical tape for the wiring part.

5. Okay, I got all of the parts and tools, now how do I swap the heads?

Alright first what you’re gonna need to do is remove the cylinder head.

Here are the step by step instructions on how to take your head off (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Drain the coolant.
3. Relieve fuel pressure (take the gas cap off)
4. Remove the air flow tube (intake)
5. Remove the fuel feed hose and charcoal canister hose from the intake manifold.
6. Remove the throttle cable at the throttle body.
7. Remove the throttle control cable from the throttle body (A/T only).
8. Remove the fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
9. Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the cylinder head and intake manifold (Basically any hose or plug that’s connected to the intake manifold or head, needs to come off)
10. Disconnect spark plug wires at spark plugs and remove them from the distributor.
11. Remove the engine ground cable on the cylinder head cover.
12. Remove the power steering belt and pump (Do NOT disconnect the hoses)
13. Remove the power steering bracket (4 bolts)
14. Remove the emission vacuum hoses and water bypass hoses from intake manifold assembly (included in step 9)
15. Remove the radiator upper hose and heater hose from the cylinder head (included in step 9)
16. Remove the water bypass hose from the thermostat housing.
17. Remove the intake manifold bracket.
18. Remove the self locking nuts and disconnect the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe A.
19. Remove the exhaust manifold bracket.
20. Remove the PCV hose, then remove the cylinder head cover.
21. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
22. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension.
23. Push the tensioner to release tension from the timing belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
24. Remove the belt from the cam pulley (gear)
25. Remove the cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head (loosen bolts starting from the outside, then coming in).

VERY IMPORTANT: If you have a D15 block (or any D-series block with an oil jet for that matter), you need to make sure that you remove the oil jet between cylinders 2 and 3 when you do this swap. If you don’t, you won’t have VTEC. I forgot to pull the oil jet out the first time. You won’t get a code, your ECU will say your solenoid is fine and everything is working great but VTEC will not actually engage. Make sure you remove the oil jet. I took a screw, screwed it into the oil jet, and then pulled it out with a pair of pliers.

 

After you’ve pulled the oil jet, you’ll need to sand down the block surface so that no gasket is left caked on the block. (You won’t have to worry about this anymore because hopefully you’ll be using a Y8 metal gasket). If you get shavings in the cylinders, then fill the cylinders with warm soapy water and float the shavings out. You’ll do this by turning the crank over a few times with a 17mm until all the water is out. Make sure that there is NO liquid in the cylinders or head bolt holes when you put the head back on (If there is, you can crack your block when you torque down the head bolts). If you are using the manifolds from your stock motor, all you’ll need to do is unbolt your intake manifold (with throttle body) off of your old head so that you are ready to put it on the Z6 head. It’s only 8 bolts.

Now, let’s put your new head on (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
NOTE:
-You can reuse your D15B7 head bolts with the D16Z6 swap…they are the same size
-Always use a new head gasket
-If you are using your old intake manifold with the new head, make sure you use a new intake manifold gasket, same goes for throttle body. If you removed it, you need a new gasket.
-Cylinder head and engine block surface must be clean (no water or dirt…even in the head bolt holes)
-Turn the crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is at TDC.

1. Install the intake manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nuts.
2. Install the exhaust manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nut.
3. Install the exhaust manifold bracket.
4. Install two dowel pins, head gasket, and cylinder head
-Apply clean engine oil on the bolt threads and washer contact surface
-Always use a new cylinder head gasket
-Turn the cam pulley to TDC before installing
5. Install the bolts that secure the intake manifold to its bracket but do not tighten them yet (optional, I decided not to do this because the intake manifold bracket is a bitch to get to)
6. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps, working your way from the inside bolts to the outside bolts.
-Step 1: 22 lb ft
-Step 2: 53 lb ft
7. Install the exhaust pipe A on the exhaust manifold.
8. Tighten the bolts for intake manifold bracket (again, optional)
9. Install the exhaust pipe A on its bracket
10. After the installation, check that all the tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed correctly.
11. Adjust the valve timing.
12. Apply liquid gasket to the head mating surface of the number 1 and number 5 or number 6 cam holder then install the cylinder head cover (you can neglect this because you need to leave it off for the timing belt install)
13. Install air intake.
14. Fill radiator with coolant.

Alright, we’re getting there. Now all we have left to do is the timing belt, and the VTEC wiring.

COMPLETE timing belt and water pump replacement thread by Poison, GREAT info:
[FAQ] Complete DIY How To: Timing Belt/Water Pump Change on a D16Z6 - lots of pics! - Honda-Tech

Lets do the timing belt first (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
1. Remove the splash shield
2. Remove the power steering pump (should already be done)
3. Remove the A/C compressor adjust pulley with bracket and the belt (with A/C), then remove the alternator belt.
4. Remove the P/S bracket (should already be done)
5. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and pivot nut, then remove the belt.
6. Remove the cruise control actuator and the P/S tank bracket.
7. Remove the engine support nuts. Loosen the mount bolt and pivot the engine side mount rubber out of the way.
8. Remove the cylinder head cover (should already be done).
9. Remove the timing belt upper cover (should already be done).
10. Remove the special bolt and crankshaft pulley (you NEED an air gun for this).
11. Remove the timing belt lower cover.
12. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension (should already be done).
13. Push the tensioner to release tension from the belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
14. Remove the timing belt from the pulleys.

I recommend that since you are replacing your timing belt, you go ahead and replace the water pump as well. It is not that expensive, and is only a few bolts. If the water pump fails, you can kiss your motor goodbye so it’s a good thing to get.

Okay, now that you’ve taken the old timing belt off (and hopefully put a new water pump in), lets put the new timing belt in (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; only key points described here.
2. Position the crankshaft and cam pulleys at TDC.
A. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC (top dead center).
NOTE: Align the groove on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the lower arrow pointer on the oil pump.
B. Align the TDC marks on the cam pulley with the pointer on the back cover.
3. Install the timing belt.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt.
5. Rotate the crankshaft (w/ 17mm socket) about 4 or 6 turns clockwise so that the belt may fit in the position on the pulleys.
6. Adjust the timing belt tension.
7. Check the crankshaft pulley and the cam pulley at TDC.
8. If the cam pulley is not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning.

Make sure you adjust the tension the alternator and A/C belts, as well as the power steering belt. Look over everything and make sure it all looks good, because you’re almost done.

6. I’m done swapping the heads, now how do I make my VTEC work?
The P28 ECU plugs right in, you all you’ll need to do is wire the VTEC up. First, you’ll need to get an engine plug from a junkyard for the VTEC solenoid oil pressure.

You’ll need to run the blue wire (or whichever color is from the plug) to pin D6, and then run the black ground wire from the plug to anywhere on the motor. You then need to run the green wire from the VTEC solenoid to pin A4.

Make sure you’re not throwing any CEL’s, if you are, go back and check your work.

 

y8 head on a y7 block.


What you need to buy:
New coolant and oil
d16y8 head
d16y8 head gasket
new head bolts

AND HERE WE GO: REMOVING THE OLD HEAD
1. drain the engine of coolant and engine oil
2. disconnect all coolant hoses, sensors, throttle cable, exhaust manifold and bracing from the y7 head (leave the y7 intake manifold attached--it makes the head easier to lift)
3. remove the spark plug wires and valve cover from the y7 head
4. unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay
5. remove the 10 head bolts
6. double-check to make sure nothing else is still attached to the head, and then remove it from the block

now make sure the block is nice and clean, and if you are going to replace your internals like me, this is the time to do it, just drop the oil pan, and remove the rod bolts and pop the pistons out of the top of the block.

oh yeah, next time you hear someone talk about the bottom end of a d-series being unstable, take off the oil pan of a y7 and you'll notice a solid piece of aluminum, at least 3 inches wide tying the main caps together.


PUTTING THE NEW HEAD BACK ON:
FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position.

1. spray the y8 head gasket with copper spray and put it in position, then replace the two spacers in the block.
2. lay the head on the block carefully, making sure everything goes on smoothly
3. torque the head bolts following the factory sequence
4. reattach all of the various sensors, timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines, and whatnot to the new head.

Also, at this time, replace the P2E ECU with the P2P from the EX trim level civic. Also be sure to refill the motor with the proper amount of oil and coolant.

NOTE: we did not change the timing belt on my car as it was in near-perfect condition. that is why i have omitted this information from the write-up

Making it all work: this is the tricky part as there are a wires that will need to be either rerouted, spliced, eliminated, or disregarded.

1. The throttle body is a possible point of difficulty, the easiest way is to use the Y8 throttle body and y8 IACV on the head. In order to do this with the y7 wiring harness, you will need to take two spade connectors and connect them to the two prongs on the male side of the IACV connector, the connect these two wires to the three-wire female plug on the y8 wiring harness, being sure to disregard the orange wire. You will need to swap wires A12 and A14, and then disconnect wire A13 from the plug at the ECU.

2. To wire VTEC, you will either need some pigtails or you can just run two wires through the firewall, to the ECU, one coming from the VTEC solenoid and the positive wire from the VTEC pressure sensor. Be sure to ground the negative side of the VTEC pressure sensitive to somewhere on the chassis. Route the VTEC solenoid wire to socket A8 and the pressure sensor to socket C15 (at the ECU)

 

distributor codes
TD01U Civic 88-91 (1.5L)
TD02U & TD18U Civic 88-91 Si (1.6L) & CRX 88-91 Si (1.6L)
TD22U Civic 88-91 JDM B16A (Japanese Spec.)
TD41U Civic 92-95 (1.5L)
TD42U Civic 92-95 Si (1.6L)
TD43U Civic ZC Engine (2nd Gen. ZC)
TD80U Civic 96-98 (1.6L Non-VTEC)
TD63U & TD73U Civic 99-00 Si DOHC VTEC (1.6L)
TD31U & TD34U Accord 90-91
TD52U Accord 92-93
TD58U Accord 94-95 (2.2L)
TD76U Accord 96-97 (2.2L)
TD89U Accord & Prelude Type S DOHC VTEC H22A
TD77U Prelude 97-02 VTEC
TD59U Prelude 92-96 non-VTEC (2.2L)
TD60U Prelude 92-96 JDM VTEC (2.2L Internal Coil)
TD61U Prelude 92-96 VTEC (2.2L) & 92-96 non-VTEC (2.3L External Coil)
TD97U CRV 99 & up (2.0L)
TD03U Integra 88-89 (1st Gen. ZC) (1.6L)
TD23U & TD24U Integra 90-91 (1.8L)
TD44U & TD68U Integra GSR / 92-95 JDM B16A
TD55U Integra 92-93 (1.8L)
TD81U & TD84U Integra GSR 96-02 & JDM B18C
TD86U & TD87U Type R 96-02 & Civic SiR 99-02
TD85U Integra 96-98 (1.8L & CRV 96-98 (2.0L)


ECU list
* PG7 : 86-89 Integra (86-87 vac advance, 88-89 electronic advance)
* PM5 : 88-91 Civic/CRX DX
* PM6 : 88-91 Civic/CRX SOHC Si
* PM7 : 89-91 DOHC ZC (JDM 'EF' ECU)
* PM8 : 88-91 CRX HF
* PR2 : 89-91 ZC (Euro)
* PR3 : 89-91 JDM B16A EF8/9
* PR3 -J00 or J51 : 92 JDM Integra B16A EF8/9
* PW0 : 89-91 JDM B16A EF8/9 DA6-XSi
* PR4 : 90-91 Integra LS/GS
* PS9 : 88-91 4 door Civic EX Auto
* P05 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic CX
* P06 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic DX
* P07 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic VX
* P08 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic D15 JDM
* P0A : 94-95 OBD-1 Accord EX
* P13 : 93-95 OBD-1 Prelude Vtec
* P14 : 93-95 OBD-1 Prelude Si (non Vtec)
* P27 : 92-95 OBD-1 EG JDM Civic 1600 sohc
* P28 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic Si/Ex
* P30 : 92-95 OBD-1 DelSol DOHC Vtec Si/EG SiR
* P54-G31 : 1997 Honda Accord 1.8 LS
* P61 : 92-93 OBD-1 Integra GSR
* P72 : 94-95 OBD-1 Integra GSR
* P72 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra GSR
* P73 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra Type-R (JDM & USDM)
* P74/75: 92-95 OBD-1 Integra LS/GS
* P75 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra LS/GS
* P2N : 96+ OBD-2 Civic HX Coupe
* P2P : 96+ OBD-2 Civic EX Coupe
* P2E : 96+ OBD-2 Civic DX Coupe
* P2M : 96+ OBD-2 NZ Civic SOHC VTEC
* P2T : 99+ OBD-? Civic Si Coupe
* P5P : 97-00 OBD-2 Prelude Type-S (JDM ECU)
* PBA : 97+ US Acura 1.6EL
* PCT : 98+ JDM ITR / CTR
* PCX : 99+ OBD-? S2000
ll Honda ECUs have a part number which is located on the side of the ECU and inside the ECU on the connector. e.g. 37820-P72-A01

The part number consists of three components:

* Honda's part number for ECU, which is always 37820
* Three characters (which are loosely related to the model of car/engine). e.g P72
* Three characters (which are the revision of the ECU) e.g. A01 or G52

The middle three characters are the most useful to identify what the ECU is. Different generation ECUs may use the same characters. e.g. a P72 OBD I ECU is different from a P72 OBD II ECU. Here is a list of common ECUs:

The last 3 characters are broken down into 3 parts. "A" generally is used for US ECUs. "G" is European, and "J" is Japanese. There are other versions of this, but you get the idea. The second digit "0" typically means manual transmission, where a "5" means automatic transmission, and the last digit "1" is the version number.

 

Camshaft Specs
Special Note:You can use a D16Z Cam in a D16Y Head but you have to use the Cam Gear from a D16Z because it'll be a 1/2 timing tooth off..same goes for D16Y cam in D16Z Head,just use Cam Gear for a D16Y

Ok, now someone tell me what camgear for D15B with D16Y based cam?:bigok:

 

lots of info to go through here. LOL

help out Mr. Bones if there are corrections that need to be made give us your support on this.

 

ttt shit needs sticked plz

 

I agree

 

best thred ever

 

how tight would the oil pump and water pump be? just 1 goodentight?

should I lock the thread with locktight?

I feel like they are going to strip

 

Nice thread bump, have you heard of google?
Here is the info so this isn't a complete waste of time like your post.

Numbers are ft/lbs.
Oil Pump to engine block bolts/nuts...........9
Oil Pump Screen bolts..............................8
Oil pump cover Screws.............................5
Oil filter Housing Bolts..............................9
Water pump attaching bolts.........................9

[FAQ] D Series Torque Specs for everyone - Honda-Tech