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Y7 Block + ZC Crankshaft + Boost

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Discussion starter · #43 ·
Last parts are coming
Oil pressure, Boost/vac, and new Wideband with gauge,and a glow shift triple pillar pod
Stage 4 sprung clutch with new flywheel
New radiator fan ( mine crapped out last night)
Now just waiting for the machine shop to finish block and head, then assembly and get it going.
 
#44 ·
Georgia Eg said:
Last parts are coming
Oil pressure, Boost/vac, and new Wideband with gauge,and a glow shift triple pillar pod
Stage 4 sprung clutch with new flywheel
New radiator fan ( mine crapped out last night)
Now just waiting for the machine shop to finish block and head, then assembly and get it going.
Click to expand...
Noice!

My Red turd has developed knock.. 1st and 2nd gear, 2-3k RPM, light throttle input, "CLAK CLAK CLAK CLAK".... :eyeroll:.. Goes away once above 30 psi (or so) of Oil pressure, or 3k RPM.
Haven't determined cause just yet. Oil level is/was always fine (I literally check it daily).
Starting to look like Fuel contamination in the oil, changed it last night with a clean drain pan. No material in the oil, but, it reeks of Gasoline.
Ordered parts/gaskets this morning, in prep. to pull the oil pan and inspect.
Cutting oil filter open after work today.
Round and round we go..
 
#46 ·
Georgia Eg said:
I'd suspect injector hanging up, or very incomplete burn, are you on wideband and tuning?
Click to expand...
Yes, and Yes.
Injectors are original Y7 units from the ‘first’ Civic, a ‘96 sedan. Shit they probably have over 300k on them.. 250 anyway.
I’ve never cleaned them, tested them, or anything. But also, never had an issue where I suspected them.

I was only about 2-3 weeks away from swapping in my Bosch EV14 (600cc) units, too.
I’ve ordered a set of replacements (Rebuilt and tested, OEM Y7 injectors) to put in after this bearing swap.
Don’t want to add another variable, and potentially wash down my fresh bearings, by trying to swap 600s in during this ‘job’.
Just have to get the ‘OEM baseline’ of everything, back, then continue forward with tuning and injector swapping.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
That sucks dude. I have the (190?) Original ones that came on the B7 if you wanna try them.
Went ahead and ordered ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts, hopefully a little insurance.
Pillar pod came in, got Glow shift, fits good, just need to try and find some 93 light brown trim paint I got the grey one
 
#48 ·
Georgia Eg said:
That sucks dude. I have the (190?) Original ones that came on the B7 if you wanna try them.
Went ahead and ordered ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts, hopefully a little insurance.
Pillar pod came in, got Glow shift, fits good, just need to try and find some 93 light brown trim paint I got the grey one
Click to expand...
Appreciate the offer friend, my rebuilt set will be here tomorrow.

Good news on more parts. I don't remember the size off hand, but those ARPs will take a 12 pt. socket (Only), so be prepared.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
I have a full set of metric 12 points, everything I could find in rotating assembly to make ARP I think I got, could probably do intake and exhaust studs too, but I don't think I need to.
Apparently my throw out or pilot is going on my current clutch, so hopefully it lasts long enough to get this setup ready.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Remote Tuning; anyone know reputable remote tuner? I am trying to find a Dyno tuner, but haven't found anyone doing HTS, seems they all basically quit Hondas
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Soo, driving down the highway, loud thud with a unpleasant grind, now the car doesn't move. Can "select" gears with clutch pushed, but doesn't move/stalls when letting pedal out, no matter how much throttle. FML .
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Towed home, going to go look for a replacement, in the next day or 2, I'm thinking a shift fork broke and is wedged in the gears, or something like that. When I rolled it down the driveway off of the flatbed it sounded very loose metal rolling around inside, I'll open it after I swap, will post findings.
Kinda hope it can be rebuilt, but it'll be a spare or scrap.
Of a bad thing it definitely could have been worse, was able to swing into a relatively safe spot, so I'm grateful for that.
 
#56 ·
I'm going to guess the spider lock bolt let go on the diff, only thing I can think of given this guys attention to detail and ocd driven fact checking, lol. Sucks that it's going to cost a whole trans, but, better man better off, as Sammy Kershaw sings.
 
Discussion starter · #57 · (Edited)
Yeah, whatever broke is inside the transmission, I'll be going to the junkyard in a few hours, fingers crossed that there's a manual there, was 5 S40's last time I went, at this point I don't care what I get, I'll make it work.
Also ordered a hot side blanket, at this point I can't think of anything else I can get, the machine shop said by end of next week I should be getting the block and head back, with rings set and PTW set to spec I got from Nippon for the pistons (.035 mm) or .0013-.0015" ,( in case anyone needs that)
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Well, went to my favorite junkyard, found a S40 B000, crawled underneath, some jackass had taken a hammer to it and busted the case, but I was able to get ahold of the guy that I got the current one from, he had a S40 A000 that's at least seems not smashed. Gonna crack it open tomorrow and see how it looks inside, but I figure it'll get bearings at least.
Anything I need to be aware of for the S40's?
 
#59 ·
worn 3-4 shifter fork, slider and hub are common enough I have 4-5 kits in stock.
 
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Georgia Eg
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