A d16 that is a zc can be anything, what obd is it and is it vtec? The y7 head will go on very stright forward set base timing via dizzy and use a timing light. Base timing shoukd match your ecu's base.

A head code is the best way to talk about zc, unless its twin cam and then zc is fine but just so you kknow twij cams and sohcs dont work together.

A d16y7 in japan is an obd2 non vtec zc

If your car is broken and you need to get to work tomorrow kinda thing use the y7, if your building it wait for the z6 head.

 

Thanks.
I was reluctantly coming to the same conclusion.

Non vtec, so no change compared to Y7.
OBDB 1, though ...

Just to be clear, the idea was that I'd use the y7 block with the sohc zc head.

 

I beleve that head to be a pm6, same head as our d16a6 and d15b7 head. My favortie dseries head

 

where do you see this 15-20% power loss?

The d16y7 makes similar power to a d16z6 once it doesnt have its factory throttle-intake manifold and header cat. you just sacrifice some midrange.

Here in teh US, a d16y7 is rated 106 crank hp, and a d16y8 is rated what, 127 crank hp? If you bolt on the Y8 header and intake manifold, that crank power goes from 106 to around 120-125. vtec isnt about peak power, its about maintaining a strong low and midrange.


Hell the non vtec heads end up being the best for porting and high power anyways.

 

Perhaps I should have written 'power drop' instead. As you say, the Y7 is about 20bhp down, compared with my ZC. I didn't mean that it would actually lose power.

I'm not sure if my zc is the same as the y8, only that I was looking for a y8 if I couldn't find a z6.

The vtec doesn't come into it - there isn't any!

Either way, I picked up a potential donor car this afternoon:
Trouble is, I think it might be too good to break! I think I'll have to run it for a bit to decide.

 

Hey, if it runs good and doesnt need much, hell you just got yourself an extended break from doing work lol

At least now you have a few extra parts to play with!!

 

Yep, all good so far.
Everything stock. 138,000 miles. Quiet engine and no-squeak body. 11 months before the next test, at a purchase price of just over the equivalent of 60 of those fine US dollars per month.

I now need to start reading up on ECUs to get a good handle on my options.

 

If you have a non-VTEC SOHC ZC then you basically have a D16A6 and it has roughly 108hp, the D16Y7 has 106hp.

 

Well, it's decided.
The Civic Coupe is staying as it is. We'll use it as a family runaround, but will be gentle with it until it's certain that we don't need to rob parts off it.

Isn't always the way? Not 24 hours after paying out for the car, I found an engine for half the price ... It's a Z6 with fewer than 100k miles, so worth a punt.

Thanks for the input, but Y7/ZC question has become irrelevant




(for now)

 

Update.

I missed 2x Z6s and a Y8 on ebay.
The weeks went by until I finally tracked down a z6 in a written-off Del Sol. Ordered it and a P28; paid for it. More weeks ... and then the breaker told me that he'd found a hole in the engine. I couldn't buy another until the refund came through ...

I think I'll just have to rebuild what I've got. It might only be an A6 (equivalent), but at least I'll be able to use the damn thing!

 

Nearly 2 months on ....

We finally found some time to take the ZC engine out and drop the sump. The big end and shell bearing for No3 piston are heat discoloured. And we found a piece of metal that looks like part of a crankshaft thrust washer. If so, there's at least 15 to 20 thou of end float that could easily have started to work its way into the casting.

It's hard to see that the engine itself is worth saving, although the head may be OK. I still don't know why it lost enough oil to run a shell, though.

Oh, and the ATR's sprung a leak on the clutch slave cylinder. Not a good day!