D15B vtec block?
If so you don't need any harness since its already obd-1.

And unless you find some old school GX pistons theres really noting you can do to the block N/A with pistons. Your better off finding a Z6 or ZC block to build.

What are your goals and budget?

 

no its the stock d15b* out of my 89 crx. its non-v and its obd0. what kind of harness would i need? and the best computer to run would be a p28?

 

So you have a D15B6.........completely diffrent engine then a D15B.

What Aragorn just said plus you will need to pull the oil jet in your block to run vtec.
Personally I would find a better block to build N/A or Boost, those blocks have toothpicks for rods.

 

Z6 head on a D15 is called a mini-me. There's nothing wrong with it, it's just there are far fewer internal engine parts available for the D15. If you wanted to "build" the engine (esp. for boost), you are better off with a D16.
As far as running it goes, you want to use your stock engine harness and add the wires for VTEC. As far as an ECU goes, you can do OBD0-OBD1 conversion and run any chipped OBD1 ECU with VTEC added. You could also stay OBD0, use a chipped PM6, TurboEDIT, and "1 wire" VTEC activation.

 

Yeah, you can do it. It will run..but there's not a lot of options with
the B6 block. However, it's good to keep around. I plan on re-building
an old HF motor at one point for a MPG beater.

 

anyone can help me regarding the JDM D-15 3 stage vtec? thanks

 

well i think we are looking over something here... That would be dpfi unless its a hf. but im guessing its a dx so hes gonna have to wire it up for mpfi. also i would deff go with a obd1 swap. easier to work with and more tuning options.

But as far as putting a z6 head on it you will need the z6 head studs, a z6 head gasket z6 timing belt, z6 dizzy and a mpfi intake mani. Any of them other then a hf or cx will be ok but a y8 one would be best. Also on the fire wall side on the deck of the block in between cylinder's 2 and 3 there is a oil jet that you have to pull out. You can do this with a pick or a screw, but you have to take this out or vtec will not work because there is one in the z6 head already. Your gonna also want to get a adjustable timing gear because your timing will be retarded half a tooth. Just do a search on dpfi to mpfi swap and wire all that up and then do the obd1 swap run a p28 and you should b good. a tune will help a little but its not gonna blow up on a stock p28 but being me id tune it since i tune and build cars as a side job lol.

Depending on what you want to make for power is gonna depend on what block 2 use. The d15 block will work just fine if you leave it stock. But if you plan on building it you don't really have any options for pistons or rods, and if you plan on reving over 7000 rpm's then those rods are not gonna be happy about it. So if you wanna do i higher compression pistons, and want to turn more rpms with head work and a cam then your gonna want 2 find a d16 block.

also a si tranny will help out. and if you do put a si tranny in it you might as well do a clutch and flywheel while you have it apart. Hope that helps

 

Well since im a nice guy and had this write up save in one of my honda files on my computer i decided to post it. There was pics but i can't figure out how to paste those to but if you read it you shouldn't have a problem with it. Also this is still in obd0 form so it is gonna say stuff about the si dizzy witch is wired the same as the z6 dizzy, and some other obd0 stuff but its a good starting point and i use this write up myself



It is much easier to use your existing DPFI harness and just add the extra 4 wires that will be needed. The Si harness will be much harder to use.
There are two major wiring changes that you'll have to do going from a DPFI system to an MPFI and a couple other minor things that need to be done too. The first one is the crank angle sensor wiring which is the easy part. The second one is the fuel injector wiring which is slightly more complicated. Also, you'll have to switch the two wires on the TPS because the TPS on the new intake works in the opposite direction. If you dont switch them, the ECU will think that the engine is at Wide open throttle when its actually at idle. I highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking any electrical connections you will be making because it is very possible for connectors to come loose from all the vibration and solder will hold up better in the long run. Also, the TPS and EACV plugs are too short and they'll have to be extended. You're also going to have to switch the manifold support bracket, since the bolt parrern from the support to manifold is different from DX to SI, although they still bolt up on the block the same.
TO HOOK UP THE MULTI-POINT CRANK ANGLE SENSOR:
- First, you'll have to go to the passengers foot well to where the ecu is located.
- Pin B10 and B12 should both be empty.
- You'll have to cut and move the wire that goes to pin C1(orange) over to pin B10, and move the wire from pin C2(white) over to pin B12. Don't get these two mixed up or else the ignition timing will be severly retarded. Leave enough wire at the ECU side of pin C1 and C2 for next step.
- Now run wires from pins C1 and C2 into the engine compartment and label them.
- There will be a connector on the new Si distributor with two unused pins. One of the wires will be blue/green stripe, and the other will be blue/yellow stripe.
- The wire that is blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2.

SWITCHING THE WIRES AT THE TPS:
This pretty much explains itself, just switch the two outside wires(green/white and yellow/white) around at the TPS and then you're done this step. I used the TPS connector off the Si harness, just so that I could just match up all the wires, since the wires are already reversed on it.
INJECTOR WIRING
(In the car):
First of all, while you're still in the passengers footwell, cut wires A3(yellow) and A7(red), although leave some wire on the ECU side for later use. Now run wires from pins A3 and A7 into the engine compartment and label them.
(Engine Compartment):
- Mount the injector resistor box up on the drivers side shock tower.
- Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DPFI injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.
- Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).
- Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).
- Connect the wire you labelled A3 to the #2 injector (red wire).
- Connect the wire labelled A7 to the #4 injector (yellow wire).
- Then, connect the 4 red/black wires coming from injector resistor box to each of the four injectors.



Distributor wiring completed
You should have three extra plugs left over after you are done the swap. two of them are the old DPFI injector plugs, and the other one is for the tandem vavle for the DPFI system, which you do not use on the MPFI system, you can either just cut it off, or tuck it away somewhere.