Fuel Pump Upgrade Harness

 

The deadhead pressure current demand of the stock pump is right at the limit of the wire gauge the factory provided. The consensus when moving from stock to a larger fuel pump is to add new power and ground feeds and use a new relay, using the old stock feed from the main relay as a trigger for a new relay.

That harness Slo sent a link to is essentially a plug and play solution, using the main relay pump feed as a trigger for the new relay.

You also need to match the stubby harness that goes from the top of the pump hat down to the pump.

All will be well if you do these things.

If I ever touch my fuel pump hat again, this guy is getting installed for ease of upgradability of fuel and power provisions:

Fuel Pump Hanger, 94-01 Acura Integra, 92-00 Honda Civic

Fuel pump hanger for early model Honda

www.radiumauto.com

 

good 12awg is more than enough for moist single pump setups.

Just toss a relay on the factory harness, run a new power wire with a fuse inline, and make a good ground.

problem solved.

for what its worth, doing this to the FACTORY pump in a 100% stock car gets a bonus to fuel pump life.

 

Would you guys recommend this as a must for a 255 Walbro as well?
Stock car other than a fresh Y7 with a compression bump.

I am experiencing some 'weird' things happening with fueling on a cold starts, and wondering if it's worth doing this 12 Ga. external power 'mod' before I start hunting elsewhere.
Its a Walbro 255 in a '99 EX chassis.

 

What kinds of weird things?

Short of load testing using an oscilloscope and an amp clamp, multimeter voltage and voltage drop tests along the circuit, its hard to know. Lots of folks have had success slamming the 255's in and rolling with no electrical issues, hence why the pumps are so popular in the Honda world. But our cars, harnesses and components are getting old, so who knows.

Walbro 255 is the lph (liter per hour) rating, not the Walbro part number. It can provide nearly 100lph more than a stock pump, so the pump logically needs more juice than a stock pump to be able to deliver that and be happy. Only live loaded testing along the full circuit end-to-end using the tooling described above could tell you if the pump and circuit are happy, or if upgrading to larger wiring provisions would improve things.


Also, since the 255 is so popular in our scene, a quick note about E85 and Walbro pumps:

Walbro 255 (aka P/N GSS342 (in tank) or GSL392 (inline)) are NOT E85 compatible because they use a steel gerotor. Stated on their website and product catalog as only fuel allowed is Gas or Diesel.

If its a genuine Walbro 255 pump, there will be a note in the box that says if anything other than gasoline or diesel are run through the pump, the warranty is void.

To do E85 properly, you'll need an E85 specific pump. There are others with the same form factor as the GSS342 from AEM, Deatschwerks, Racetronix, Grams, etc. that are E85 compatible.

The next most popular Walbro pump for E85 is the Walbro 450, same price point as a genuine GSS342, but will require some fuel pump hanger modification to get it seated.

I'm running a 450, works great. And yes, this specific pump needs bigger wiring lol.

 

Use an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.

A 255 is FAR too much pump for the car, even if you decide to run it on E85 and shoot for 400whp

Just run a denso stock replacement pump, or one of the cheap drop in spectra premium assemblies. Just be sure to check the fuel sock on the bottom for shipping damage, or better yet, buy a spare one.


A 255 will create a constant fuel rich condition that no amount of tuning will fix PROPERLY. It can be worked around with some tools, aka, drill and welder, but not worth the effort.

Cheap ebay fuel reg, tear it apart and replace the terrible quality diaphragm with a namebrand kit that fixes the namebrand regulator, and you should be okay.


But there isnt any real reason to upgrade a fuel pump unless you actually plan to need it.


A authentic walbro 190 is also almost too much pump, but far easier to deal with.

Heck, a fuel pump from an evo 9 will drop in with minimal fuss if you are creative enough

 

Am i nuts for having done this to insure whatever the previous guy dropped in stays healthy? Lmao, supposedly is a walbro 225, but I've yet to have issues after fixing the kill switch soldering issue. Now having typed that my fuel pump will be the next part on the shelf of "offerings to God for speed".

 

A sticking FPR will bypass too much fuel to the tank causing a lean idle issue. Some FPR's cannot hold back the pressure from the walbro and get hung up. Usually the Ford fix works, hit the FPR with a (rubber) hammer.

I had the issue with my aeromotive FPR made for Honda's. It happened the day before our Import Day and no way was I going to run with it like that.

 

Thanks for the input, I will give the ole dead-blow a swing and see how it reacts.

I do recall reading somewhere on here, of someone who had an AEM unit like mine, and found a ruptured diaphargm?
Thought it was @drtalon123 , but maybe @Oldcivicjoe ?

 

datalogging a stock ecu is an absolutely fantastic way of learning what the manufacturer wanted in their vehicles and how they handle the critical things, like fuel enrichments based on various sensors.


Even better when you "trick" the sensors with variable resistors to learn how far those enrichments can go.

fuel trims and ignition timing advances are two things that do a pretty good job of showing the brains.

 

or setting the TPS so I can crack open the throttle while coasting so the engine is not having a braking effect? Just like using the regen braking on my Honda Accord. Or how I wanted to build grill shutters using a Futaba S148 servo? on my old EG HB?

Blundell didn't think start/stop would ever work, well if you use the electric motor to move the car and spin the motor so it can find "home" on the sensors and start adding fuel.

Yep, all those ideas and some others I'm going to work on my new EG HB 2022 Accord Hybrid.

I do wanna monitor the engine and CVT temps, might be able with a BT dongle on the OBD port???

45 mpg highway/53 mpg city/ 47-48 mpg observed combined.


2022 Honda Accord Hybrid Sport w/ eCVT — 44 city/41 highway/43 combined EPA-estimated mpg*


Impressed by the 2022 Honda Accord MPG ratings? Get ready to be impressed further. Besides the high-performing powertrains, this new sedan also features a few systems that take your Accord MPG ratings to a whole new level:

• With the Eco Assist™ system, you can drive more efficiently whether in stop-and-go traffic or on the wide-open highways in the Westfield area.
• If you have one of the hybrid models, you will have access to the 3-Mode Drive system. Choose the ECON mode to improve efficiency or the sport mode to increase engine performance. If you’re under certain conditions, you can switch to the EV mode to operate solely on the electric motor.
• Drivers who are more conscious about their driving habits can often save fuel easily. However, when you drive a brand new Accord with the Idle-Stop system, you no longer have to worry about forgetting to do certain tricks. If your sedan brakes to a stop for at least two seconds, the engine will turn off automatically. This is perfect for situations like when you’re at a traffic light. The engine will start back up by itself when you release the brake pedal. It’s that easy to be more efficient with this sedan!
  
  
  Time to work on my tricks for mpg. Heck I haven't even check the tire pressures yet.

 

the new hodna hybrids are quite interesting. But way out of my price range.

no credit card history, combined with no real credit history period makes a cheap 21k toyota corolla cost me $500 a month leasing at 12k miles each of the 3 years. Essentially buying the car but still not having anything to show for it. Its literally cheaper for me to buy the car than lease with my credit lol

 

leasing is just stupid unless it is a business write off, like for a realator.

I did have a huge chunk to put down, $22 on a $36 car,But I'd just restarted my credit last October, 728 score RN.