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Discussion Starter #1
Z6/A6 Block w/ Y8 Head

From this thread.

"Ok ladies...this is the deal

IF YOU WANT TO RUN ARP STUDS ON Z6 BLOCK/Y8 HEAD YOU NEED THE FOLLOWING:

1) Z6 STUD KIT
2) PN# AM6.100-1LB DIRECT FROM ARP (1 piece)*

* This piece will replace the Z6 stud in the corner where the VTEC solenoid is located on the Y8 head. You need this part and neither a Z6 stud or Y8 stud will work. PN# AM6.100-1LB has same pinch/diameter as Z6/Y8 except it is between the two in terms of its length...perfectly fitting the application.

Vince"

I've read that using the 10 Z6 studs, will work and you can use a washer from a stock headbolt on the stud by the VTEC (DANZ).

I've also seen sets for sale on Lightning Motorsports, and Go-Autoworks, with 9 Z6 studs and and 1 Y8 stud.

I have heard with the above combo, the Y8 stud barely gets engaged by the nut, and the best option is to get a stud that is slightly longer than the Y8 stud and slightly shorter than the Z6 Stud, which is what that part number is.

Has anyone used the above stud and can verify that it works?

Also, In a box of Z6 ARPs, all the studs are the same length.

Are all the studs in a box a Y8 ARPs also equal?

I almost ordered a single Y8 ARP stud from ARP, but am second guessing myself and think the part number above is a better option.

Let me know your thoughts! Thanks
 

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88-95/01-05 is 140mm

96-00 is 120.5mm

Z6 blocks are all drilled and threaded to the same length, Y8 blocks aren't. The headstud hole near the spool valve is drilled and threaded deeper, as the Y8 head casting is "thinner" in this area.(I may have this backwards I don't feel like going and looking at my engine lol)

This is way when using a Y8 head on a Z6 block you need a shorter head stud in this location. I do believe a Y8 stud is fine to use instead of the custom one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
From what I've looked at,

The Z6 casting has the raised VTEC stud hole, as well as the complimenting raised platform on the Z6 Head by the VTEC.

The Y8 has equal depth holes and equal height platforms on the head.

So the stud in question should be shorter than the Z6 stud by the amount of the Z6 platform is raised over the Y8, but not compensate for the lower hole of the Y8..

Does anyone have a picture of the engagement of the Y8 Stud in a Y8 head on a Z6 Block?

I'm going to try to find the length of this special order stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
"ARP-208-4301 (D16Z6 Kit) = (140mm = 5.511”) Studs in this kit are 6.450” (163.83mm)
ARP-208-4305 (D16Y8 Kit) = (120.5mm 4.744”) Studs in this kit are 5.700” (144.78mm)

AM6.100-1LB – 6.100” long 10mm X 1.25 both ends

Best regards,"

So it is in-between.

Does anyone have a picture of the engagement of a Y8 stud fully in the hole with a nut on it?

I'm going to get the in-between stud and try it out and I'll post up a picture when I'm done.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Well shit, I'm going to get it today, heard the local shop has it from ARP. We'll see.

ARP was wrong, they didn't have it, I didn't expect them to, but I tried.

Called ARP back and it is on it's way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Shorter stud next to stock Z6



This is how level these studs come out if you do it right, guys.




New Stud installed...




Here's the installed height or whatever you want to call it.



Notes. Most of the studs stuck about .500 without a nut, while the VTEC bolt and the water pump bolt were both .700 out, meaning the Stud I ordered could have been .200 shorter and still had full engagement.


Oh and Always clean your mating surfaces with Lacquer thinner or SOMETHING.

Don't forget the dowels.

I take the Studs out to clean the deck every time.

OEM Y8 HG Forever

Seriously you can run +.007 P2D on them.
 
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