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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK I have been reading and studying up on my build. I think I have more questions now than I did before I started. I am only lookin for about 325-350whp and it to be a very dependable DD. I have new OEM parts from Honda like water pump and timing belt.

First I'll post my mods/parts list

z6 stock bore block w/z6 head
JE/SRP 9.0:1 Pistons w/ JE rings 75mm
Eagle H beam rods
Stock Crank
ACL Race bearings
Air Research t3 50 trim
Edelbrock cast turbo mani
Custom 2.5" turbo back
Cometic 5 layer HG
Unorthodox under-drive pulley
DSM 510cc inj
Honda resistor box
Wally 190 lph (had brand new one layin around)
FMIC
Greddy BOV
MBC
Chipped p28 tuned with Crome
Innovate LC-1 Wideband
Autometer Boost gauge
Innovate auto timer(still have to order)
Xenocron 3 Bar map(still have to order) or
GM 3bar map
2.5" IC pipe
ARP Head studs(have to order)

My questions are about cam, head pnp, intake mani, throttle body, oil pump, and catch can/black pcv box.

Cam:
Do I need to upgrade my cam with what I have now? I dont have the cash for a new cam right now. Was wondering if I would be fine with my stock cam til I can get a cam and cam gear later on down the road.

Head Port and Polish(PnP):
I have been looking into doing a DIY PnP on my head. I have the knowledge and skill to do it just dont know about benefits with my goals.

Intake Mani:
I'm lookin into the y8 mani. I keep gettin mixed influences on if I should run it or not. Some people say yes others say no. I have read only good for boosted app like I'm doin and have read not good for boosted setups. I have a $200 credit at a local salvage yard and can get one of these for like $25 of that credit. Should I run one?

Throttle Body:
I have also been looking into a B or H series TB. I know the B series uses a map like the D series so the Xenocron map will work fine with it, and the H series uses a remote mount map so the GM unit will work there. Other than map location is there a benefit of one over the other?

Oil pump:
I have 2 questions here. First should i just replace or pull it apart and check spcs? Second should I port it or not? I have a -3AN oil line for my turbo with a -10AN drain. Somethings I have read say mic it and check tolerances if its in specs just leave it alone and run it, and if they are out just rebuild it. As far as porting it i have read would be good to have higher volume but dont need higher pressure.

Catch Can /PCV black box:
I was also thinking about removing my black box. Its leakin oil. Was goin to go with a Catch can in place of it. How do i plug the block, and whats the best way to do the PCV system? I have read with a turbo setup its best to remove the PCV system and use only a catch can. Whats the thoughts on this?

Please don't flame and just say search. I have searched and thats what lead me to ask the questions I'm askin. Any advise is thanked in advanced. I figured it would be best to just ask all in one thread rather than wasting space and doing it in multiple posts.

Also one last thing. I just found out yesterday one of my stones on my cylinder hone is cracked. Is it still ok to use or do I need to get another one?

What about Copper HG sprayy? Should I spray the Cometic HG with it?
 

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Build Is looking good so far Bro... Im sure you made the wifey proud with the engine block in the kitchen sink! LOL... I know my Fiance was impressed when I did the same thing with my build... Im glad to see that you have gotten alot of this stuff figured out...

My curiosity comes from the lack of responses to any of your questions on this thread??? Did you somehow edit them out or did you really not get any answer to your questions??? If you edited out all the responses somehow well, that's one thing... But If you really never got a response to your questions AT ALL then I will be HIGHLY dissapointed in my D-series brethren... After all, I was the one that recommended you to join the site...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I didnt get any. Honestly the only answers I got where from you and Xenocron on H-T and couple others here and there.
 

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OK I have been reading and studying up on my build. I think I have more questions now than I did before I started. I am only lookin for about 325-350whp and it to be a very dependable DD. I have new OEM parts from Honda like water pump and timing belt.

First I'll post my mods/parts list

z6 stock bore block w/z6 head
JE/SRP 9.0:1 Pistons w/ JE rings 75mm
Eagle H beam rods
Stock Crank
ACL Race bearings
Air Research t3 50 trim (T3 flange?)
Edelbrock cast turbo mani (T28 flange?)
Custom 2.5" turbo back
Cometic 5 layer HG
Unorthodox under-drive pulley (use an OEM Z6 pulley!)
DSM 510cc inj (curious what vehicle these were from?)
Honda resistor box
Wally 190 lph (had brand new one layin around)
FMIC
Greddy BOV
MBC
Chipped p28 tuned with Crome
Innovate LC-1 Wideband
Autometer Boost gauge
Innovate auto timer(still have to order)
Xenocron 3 Bar map(still have to order) or
GM 3bar map
2.5" IC pipe
ARP Head studs(have to order)

My questions are about cam, head pnp, intake mani, throttle body, oil pump, and catch can/black pcv box.

Cam: (not needed for your power levels)
Do I need to upgrade my cam with what I have now? I dont have the cash for a new cam right now. Was wondering if I would be fine with my stock cam til I can get a cam and cam gear later on down the road.

Head Port and Polish(PnP): (not needed for your power levels)
I have been looking into doing a DIY PnP on my head. I have the knowledge and skill to do it just dont know about benefits with my goals.

Intake Mani: (if you've got a Z6 or Y8 you'll be fine)
I'm lookin into the y8 mani. I keep gettin mixed influences on if I should run it or not. Some people say yes others say no. I have read only good for boosted app like I'm doin and have read not good for boosted setups. I have a $200 credit at a local salvage yard and can get one of these for like $25 of that credit. Should I run one?

Throttle Body: (I'd look for a cheap B-series TB)
I have also been looking into a B or H series TB. I know the B series uses a map like the D series so the Xenocron map will work fine with it, and the H series uses a remote mount map so the GM unit will work there. Other than map location is there a benefit of one over the other?

Oil pump: (check for good tolerances and port)
I have 2 questions here. First should i just replace or pull it apart and check spcs? Second should I port it or not? I have a -3AN oil line for my turbo with a -10AN drain. Somethings I have read say mic it and check tolerances if its in specs just leave it alone and run it, and if they are out just rebuild it. As far as porting it i have read would be good to have higher volume but dont need higher pressure.

Catch Can /PCV black box: (check out my DIY catch can setup. There is a D-series plug adapter available from Go-Autoworks on here)
I was also thinking about removing my black box. Its leakin oil. Was goin to go with a Catch can in place of it. How do i plug the block, and whats the best way to do the PCV system? I have read with a turbo setup its best to remove the PCV system and use only a catch can. Whats the thoughts on this?

Please don't flame and just say search. I have searched and thats what lead me to ask the questions I'm askin. Any advise is thanked in advanced. I figured it would be best to just ask all in one thread rather than wasting space and doing it in multiple posts.

Also one last thing. I just found out yesterday one of my stones on my cylinder hone is cracked. Is it still ok to use or do I need to get another one? (I've heard that using a ball-honing tool is better)

What about Copper HG sprayy? Should I spray the Cometic HG with it? (NO)
In short, you are well on your way. Replace that turbo with something bigger and you have room to grow with that setup. Take your time and triple check everything during final motor assembly.

I'd recommend your bearing clearances to be on the looser end of the factory limit spectrum too.

GL!
 

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A head P&P may sacrifice some mileage. How thick is your cometic HG?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The turbo is bigger than i originally thought. Its a 60trim .60ar compressor and .63ar turbine. the turbo is a t3 flange so is the mani. I had a t3 to t25 flange for it when i was runnin the t25.

I ended up honing it with the 3 blade hone. I turned out really nice.

I will use the OEM Honda pulley and the other will make a nice pencil holder.

The 510cc inj are Evo3 injectors.

Im not sure which one it is at the moment but I found a DIY Catch can that I'm goin to do. Here is a link to the one I'm goin to do.

Here is what I set my clearances to.
0.017, 0.019, 0.021. Bore is set at 2.955 with a PTW of 0.0040-0.0045. I set the PTW according to JE's paper work that they sent with the pistons. This was also verified on their website. 0.0030-0.0035 plus 0.001-0.0030 for turbo, supercharged, nitrous, and endurance vehicles. As soon as my buddy drops my ring compressor back off I will be installing pistons and rings. Already clearanced the block for the rods today. Honed the cylinders got a nice 45* to 50% crosshatch. Recleaned the block after notching and honing were done

Will I notice or will there be any gains from a y8 mani? I have read I can port a y8 mani out to match the b or h tb alot easier/better than I can the z6 mani. Is this true?

I knew the DSM guys copper spray their HG and didnt know if it would do me any good on the Honda.
 

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Cam isn't needed, but it can widen/move the powerband.
I believe Speedfactory did a cam shootout (in SuperStreet?), might want to look into that.

Porting the head isn't needed to hit even 400whp, but cleaning up casting marks/etc won't hurt.
The easier it is to push the air in through the ports, the more power you'll make.
But that doesn't mean to hog out the ports. You want a high flowing head.
It's all a balance though.

Port the oil pump. Rushi made a GREAT thread about it.
It's up to you if you want to measure and see if the old one is within spec or not.
Personally, I'd buy a new one. Practice porting on the old one, then port the new one.

Run a good catch can. There's plenty of threads about it.
I believe there is a REALLY good thread about it on OCO.
But the bottom line is, you need to vent the valve cover and the block.
That's the basic idea, but there's other things that can be done (like putting the crankcase under vacuum).
 

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why do u wanna run such a thick head gasket??u should get your compression atleast to
8:5c/r??? but nice set up so far!!
 

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It kills your quench and potentially reduces some detonation thresh hold but the static would be real safe. You'd have to run aggressive drive ability timing. Well you wouldn't have to.... I wanted to know the real low down about this head shim idea so I started a thread about it but didn't get any pat primmer answers as to how and why like I was hoping for.

When people tell you just to run a std hg I'd at least want to know your combustion height, dome height, and total milling amounts so I could plug them into the calculator to see for myself. I just thought you wanted to run a lower compression as if you were planning to push it over 400whp. 8.5 is a good compromise but that's the HG you have. They're expensive. I don't distrust the quality on a cometic but I don't have personal experience with them.

I'm sure you know with bad quench you'd be less efficient for daily mileage but not so much on non rc/pecision injectors. With that said my friends crappy quench p29 a6 build still gets good mileage with stock injectors.
 

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Yeah, no need for copper spray and you should really look at getting an OEM Y8 HG.

Also, about those injectors...they are probably pretty old. Unless you've had them flow tested and sonically cleaned, I'd look at prehaps some Evo VIII/IX 550s. I was origianlly gonna run a set I had, but ended up going the E85 route. So 1000s it was for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I may just end up goin with a OE hg not sure yet.

As for the injectors. They havent been flow tested but have been sonic cleaned.

Why do you say y8 gasket when I'm runnin a z6 block and z6 head?

I got the hg, bearings, OEM water pump, m3 spoiler, under-drive all for 125 shipped. People keep tellin my not to use the under drive for various reasons. Some say my stock pulley is balanced and is a dampener. There is no dampener bushings or anything to it. There are also no drilled spots/dimples from balancing. The only accessory I am goin to be runnin is the alt. Goin to remove power steering and ac is already gone.
 
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