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Discussion Starter #1
Well the good thing this time is that it runs. Now the bads, if you heard a v8 with a cam then thats what my car sounds like except slower. It idels very weird and I cant find out what it is. Now, this just happed to me today....I was turning it on to keep it warm in this cold ass weather and drove it around the block. I punched it like 2 times. The first time I pulled good, no problems, but the second time I pulled it would not let me go past 3500. Kinda felt like I was redlining at 3500. Then I turned it off and turned it back on and it worked like nothing happened. Sould I take it to a master electrician and have him re wire my shit? Please help the retarded honda boy(me) :gir:
 
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cai, headders and exhaust. Soon to be turbo but I want to get all these lil bugs out first.
 
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How can headders mess with the idel? Sensor? I know where the iac valve is at but how do I clean it? The z6 is in my CRX, so....It does'nt have that blinki light that thoughs you out a code, or does it? Please let me know if Iam wrong.
 

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wrong lamda 02 reading = poor eco. and /or bad idle...
but redline at 3500 = emegency program... ecu failure
 
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zeus zore said:
wrong lamda 02 reading = poor eco. and /or bad idle...
but redline at 3500 = emegency program... ecu failure
Please info me on what a lamda 02 reading is. And what sould I do it has a chipped P28, does'nt redline till 7grand.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
ok did u use a obd1 conversion harness? u should have wired 1 wire to a toggle switch so that u can check your check engine light, when u flip the switch it switches to closed loop mode and the code flashes on the dash, check out http://jkobdconversionharness.com/mpc/docs/Site/OBD0 to OBD1.html
anyway, u need to find out what code your throwing (you must be throwing something?)

but yea like the weird guy said :beer: your in limp mode, which means something bad, swap your ecu out for another and see if it still does it...
 

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modsHXcivi said:
clean the iac valve
yes, do this. my zc idles like shit and i need to clean mine out as well. over time oil and other stuff from your pcv will clog that up and make it run like crap. especially when its cold out. also, try using someone else's distributor that you know is working right. when they get old, the bearings start to wear a little and that could throw off your sensors. my crank positioning sensor was bad on my zc and i could only rev to 3k. if the other distributor works, get a new one.
 
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Thanx for the advice once again and I will try all options as soon as I get on vacation(thursday).
 

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On the F150, I just pulled off the IACV, removed the solenoid, cleaned the slide valve out with carb cleaner, and put it on with new gaskets. I'm not sure if the honda ones need special treatment for anything, tho.

My conjecture on the idle:

My headers messed up my idle because the o2 sensor on it is (much) farther away than the stock location. Since it doesn't warm up as fast as OEM, the computer expects different signals than what it gets, and overcorrects until the sensor gets to normal operating temperature. Mine pops, revs, falls, etc. for about 30 sec. I had problems with it if I drove off too quickly after starting it up, too. The sensor still gave wrong readings and it felt like someone was stepping on the brake from the bad fuel mixture.

Try waiting 30sec-1min for when the idle smooths out on its own. I know my sensors are warmed up when it goes from its 1200rpm sputtering to a sudden smooth 1700 rpm, at which time it's ready to drive.
 
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