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Discussion Starter #1
Here`s a snippet on nolimitmotorsport.com about the z10 system:

"The Z10 Radius Arm Traction System can offer your car increased durability, improved traction, lower 60' times and will completely eliminate wheel-hop. It's specially engineered design provides extra stability, enabling you to not only launch harder but to retain complete suspension travel, no binding! Suitable for both road and drag racing, Z10's Radius Arm Traction System retains factory ground clearance and allows for caster adjustment. Mounting brackets are CNC pocketed for lightweight starts. Radius rods are high strength aluminum alloy. Using factory bolt holes, this true bolt-on unit will definitely improve your car's performance! Although this model comes standard with premium steel-rod ends, aluminum rod-ends are available upon request. A customizable powder-coating or a clear-coated exposed welds steel finish is also available. Ask us about our ultra-lightweight chrome-alloy option too."


~For the most part, the installation is very simple. But remember that the splashguards will NOT fit back on after install - I have heard people say the z10`s aren`t for street cars, this may be the only reason why that is said.

~If you live in a dusty area, or are afraid to drive without the splashguards you may not want to use the z10 bars. I have noticed that I accumulate a lot more dirt in the engine bay, because of this I made sure my timing belt cover was back on to keep the dirt off the timing belt.

~Ground clearance IS a little more limited. Personally I can bottom out driving over a speed bump too quickly - but I also have the car lowered 2"s with H&R sport springs/tokico shocks. If you are carefull you can prevent bottoming out but it can be a pain in the ass.

~Concerning caster adjustment: These do NOT adjust caster as advertised! They adjust TOE which is a TIRE WEARING ANGLE. BEWARE adjusting these things without an alignment machine!!! Luckily I had access to a hunter DSP 400 to do an alignment with these on. After playing around with the tension I noticed that the only setting which changed is toe in/out. Caster stayed right around 1.5 degrees left and right no matter how hard or loose the bars were set.

Ok - that`s all the bad things about these z10 bars, now for the good stuff:

~The car does feel more stable on the highway the steering wheel feels very solid but does not disconnect you from 'road feel'.

~I can launch the car considerably harder without wheelhop.

~Cornering feels more solid, my tires really feel like the weakspot in my suspension now.


Will I keep these on my car? Yeah probably, my biggest worry is the dirt I accumulate from driving around dirty ass Denver CO. The roads here suck, lots of dirt and gravel to get up in your car or crack your windshield. Man I`m sick of Colorado....
 
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Discussion Starter #3
turbo95eg6 said:
Oh god...dont get me started....I want these soo bad...My mechanic just put some on his race car...do you have pics...? How much do these run?
They are pretty sweet, I picked up a set for 300 dollars - My friend with a 95 hatch did an H22 swap and they don`t fit with that motor.

It is a very noticable difference with the way the car feels, solid is the only way to describe it. I still haven`t modified the splashguard to fit so I`m not using one.
I`ll try to get some pics up this weekend.
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Do they make it for a 99ex? I get bad wheel hop when I drag. If so were do you go to get it.

thanx
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sorry I`ve been such a lazy ass about posting up some pics of my setup.
In two of the pictures, I have circled where the traction bars have bottomed out when I took a few speed bumps a tad too fast.

(as for tires, I have some crappy 13" generic tires...they suck big time).

It does not replace the front crossmember...it bolts in place of the front tow hooks so you won`t have those anymore.
The pictures go in this order:
1. Above passenger side
2. Above driver`s side
3. Below driver`s side
4. Below passenger`s side
 

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