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Discussion Starter #1
Yeah, I'm a Toyota guy visiting from TuneMyToyota, reason why I'm here is to continue my R&D where most Toyota people have never been and I'm in need of some help.

I have a 5E-FHE, not sure if you guys know what this is, but it's a fairly rare engine, especially with the ACIS manifold, which I'm fairly certain you guys don't know what it is, so I'll fill you in on my project.



This is my 5E-FHE, you'll notice how much bigger the intake mani is than most Honda engines, that's because it has two runners, one that is long for increased air speed at low RPMs and one that is short for increased direct air flow to the injectors at high RPMs, kind of like having a set of ITB's without the downside of loss of power at the lower end of the band due to poor fuel mixture.

My problem? None, really. I'd just like to be able to tune my engine for higher power and add the ability to read positive vacuum (boost) and this is where this forum comes in. I want to redo my wire harness (done it before already to accept the engine) to accept a chipped Honda P28 ECU.

The P28 accepts the widest band of Honda engines, I know this, but a Toyota engine will require some research and development, which is what I do best, here are the problems I know of, as I get advice I'll continue to post my progress in this thread.

• Honda ECUs read the crank signal only halfway from how Toyota reads it, if you've ever popped open your distributor, youll notice a couple of reluctors, one has 4 teeth and the other has 24 and I'm not certain if there's any other signals. Toyota has the 4 toothed one that will match perfectly, but not the 24 toothed reluctor, instead it has a rounded out reluctor that creates a wave signal, this is how it determines the crank position and this is one of my downfalls, I need to know if your ECUs can work the engine without the 24 toothed signal.

• VTEC engagement, Toyota's equivalent is VVT-i but my engine doesnt have this, it has ACIS and even that is operated differently, what I want to do is use the existing VTEC signal to operate ACIS, for this I need to know how does VTEC engage and what wires go to the VTEC solenoid to operate it along with the voltage of it.

• BOOST, will a chipped P28 be able to read boost?

• Injectors, Honda uses low impedance injectors wired to an external resistor pack, can I run Toyota high impedance resistors without the coil pack? If not, what are the dimensions of Honda injectors?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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It's been done before....I'll have to find some links when I get time.
 

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1992 Civic Si
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- VTEC engages when certain conditions are met and the engine is above a set RPM. Coolant temperature, speed, oil pressure to the solenoid. There is an oil pressure switch on the solenoid, and another plug for actuating the solenoid. The solenoid is sent 12V through its plug when these conditions are met.

- YES YES YES A P28 will love boost.

- As long as they are in the ballpark of 10-14 ohms you can run injectors without a resistor pack.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Interesting, oil pressure switch will need to be tricked for it to work with ACIS, if that's done then I can probably rig it up to a VSV to the VTEC solenoid plug that switches between atmosphere and vacuum. The fact that it only engages under those conditions might also help improve efficiency which is another thing that I'm after

Injectors don't need anything done to them then, Toyota uses 13.8Ω
 

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I'm thinking that you sir, are one of those guys that reaches goals others say are impossible. I'm guessing you got either a tercel or a paseo right? I've got tercel I'm wanting to swap in a 4E-FTE :TU: anyway...

You've certainly come to the right honda forum, I can tell you that right now, This place has so many people that know so much information. I know the P28 ECU is the more sought after ECU for any B or D series engine. Boost is also good friends with P28's lol
 

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I HAVE ACTUALLY DONE THIS BEFORE ON MY AE86 4AGE ALL MOTOR, IT IS VERY CHEAP AND EASY TO DO IF YOUR PATIENT.
YOU WILL NEED ALL HONDA SENSORS TPS, MAP, AND COOLANT SENSOR,02 SENSOR, U WILL ALSO NEED THE IAC VALVE (JUST PLUGGED IN) AND MOST IMPORTANT THE DIZZY, AND COMPLETE WIRE HARNESS ECU TO ENGINE (I ALSO USED THE HONDA INJECTORS). YOU NEED OBD1 CIVIC WIRING DIAGRAM AND YOUR CARS WIRING DIAGRAM.
NOW THE PROBLEM YOU MIGHT FACE IS ADAPTING THE TPS TO YOUR THROTTHLE BODY, I WOULD JUST USE A HONDA TB. YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO ADAPT THE DIZZY , WICH WAS NOT HARD, I HACKED UP THE TOYO DIZZY AND MATED THE HONDA TO IT.. TAKE THE WIRING HARNESS AND STRIP IT DOWN TO ONLY WHAT UR USING , MAKE IT SELF CONTAINED LIKE A STAND ALONE, SO WHEN IT IS INSTALLED YOU CONNECT YOUR CONSTANT ,SWITCHABLE AND GROUND AND YOUR OFF... I LEFT THE IAC VALVE PLUGGED IN UNDER THE DASH, WHEN IT'S PLUGGED OUT THE CAR IDLE'S UP AND DOWN..(JUST LIKE A HONDA WITH A BAD OR DIRTY IAC))

I HAVE ALOT MORE PICS AND A VIDEO SOMWHERE, WILL FIND THE DYNO SHEET AND VIDEO OF IT RUNNING [email protected],400

HERE ARE SOME PICS:

SENSORS

YES THAT IS AN INTEGRA RADIATOR...


 

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I'm loving this thread.

Technical threads like these are why I'm on D-series. Keep the info coming because I'm all ears on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A bit more info

Here's some info on the "E" series engine that may be helpful


The above is a quick diagram of the second gen 5E-FE's oil pump, if you look at it closely youll notice it has a crank position sensor and reluctor, do you guys have a picture of the reluctors inside of the Honda OBD1 distributor? I could probably get away with not having to use a Honda dizzy if I machine this reluctor to match a Honda one and get the second signal from my distributor

the other sensors should be an easy move, the TPS can be modified or I can go japspec18's route and mate a Honda throttle body to my car using an adapter plate

I am indeed one of those people, I like to post my work to make it easier for the next person to do what I've done


Ahh there we go!


Can you guys tell me if this is an OBD1 distributor?
These are the signals it generates:
-TDC: Top dead center
-CYP: Cylinder position
-CKP: Crankshaft position

.nfo comes from this address
Anatomy of a B-series Distributor - Team Integra

I have two distributors, both of which only create 2 of the 3 signals Honda uses.

The first is the native dizzy to the 5E-FHE, this one uses an external ignition coil and I would very much so love to use it with my MSD 6AL and Blaster 3, it only creates TDC and CKP

The second is the dizzy to the 5E-FE, this one uses an internal ignition coil, I was planning on modifying it to accept an external coil, the signals it creates are TDC and CYP
 

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a hatch
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^ that is an obd1 distributor

I remember there being some adapters to put a honda dizzy on the toyota, saw them on pgmfi and hmt. Ill dig up a link
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ahh we're definitely getting somewhere now

OBD1 matches 2 of the signals Toyota uses
5E-FE 2nd gen oil pump matches the third signal from what I can see, I'll need to verify that the spacing is the same on the teeth and the alignment as well

If there's an adaptor that'll make my job even more easy
 

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Classic Man
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ive seen two toys running honda ecu's, its not rocket science to rig it up.


PS, we have intake manifolds just like yours... its not that fancy at all.
 

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Here's some info on the "E" series engine that may be helpful


The above is a quick diagram of the second gen 5E-FE's oil pump, if you look at it closely youll notice it has a crank position sensor and reluctor, do you guys have a picture of the reluctors inside of the Honda OBD1 distributor? I could probably get away with not having to use a Honda dizzy if I machine this reluctor to match a Honda one and get the second signal from my distributor

the other sensors should be an easy move, the TPS can be modified or I can go japspec18's route and mate a Honda throttle body to my car using an adapter plate

I am indeed one of those people, I like to post my work to make it easier for the next person to do what I've done


Ahh there we go!


Can you guys tell me if this is an OBD1 distributor?
These are the signals it generates:
-TDC: Top dead center
-CYP: Cylinder position
-CKP: Crankshaft position

.nfo comes from this address
Anatomy of a B-series Distributor - Team Integra

I have two distributors, both of which only create 2 of the 3 signals Honda uses.

The first is the native dizzy to the 5E-FHE, this one uses an external ignition coil and I would very much so love to use it with my MSD 6AL and Blaster 3, it only creates TDC and CKP

The second is the dizzy to the 5E-FE, this one uses an internal ignition coil, I was planning on modifying it to accept an external coil, the signals it creates are TDC and CYP
yes that is an obd1 dizzy.

not a bad idea, but when you start messing with those sensors
-TDC: Top dead center
-CYP: Cylinder position
-CKP: Crankshaft position
headache city, your going to run into problems, save time use the honda dizzy ,,,, thats my opinion.. by all means if you can make it work without the honda dizzy, it would be great, keep us posted and good luck...
 

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a hatch
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Ahh we're definitely getting somewhere now

OBD1 matches 2 of the signals Toyota uses
5E-FE 2nd gen oil pump matches the third signal from what I can see, I'll need to verify that the spacing is the same on the teeth and the alignment as well

If there's an adaptor that'll make my job even more easy
Found it, also has a wiring excel sheet 2nd page
Honda ECU on Toyota? - HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum

Now do it up lol
 
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How are the IAB';s driven? by solenoid, by manifold pressure?

If the IAB's are electric, you should run a 1994-95 integra GSR ecu

Its chippable juist like the P28 but has that extra feature
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Headache city is where I live, if I couldn't deal with it I would've stuck with the original motor on the original harness with the original ecu with the original cluster.

I'll try to dig up anything about adapters for Honda Dizzies to Toyota

What's the Honda equivalent to variable length intake runners if you don't mind me asking? I've never seen one before
 
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