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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Lucky P20/B000 (Z6) junkyard find for my 6th gen DX (Y7)

I got my hands on a P20/B000 (92-95 Si/EX) trans to put on my 6th gen DX (Y7)

Just put everything back together with the new trans on and fired it up to be greeted with a horrific tapping sound coming from the clutch area. The car drives great and all gears are smooth with no grinding. I just think I screwed up the clutch release fork & bearing. This is only the second time I've put a trans on so I'm a bit of a noob I suppose

EDIT: the noise has gone away mostly now it's just a very faint tapping sound. gonna just drive it as is for now until i get another daily

Here's the MP3 clip of the noise: https://instaud.io/3xgn

  • The noise DOES NOT go away when pressing the clutch pedal
  • Rarely and randomly the noise will go away until I touch the clutch pedal again
I reused the bearing that came with the trans (the P20/B000) I pulled from the junkyard because it looked & felt good. I don't know why I didn't just buy a new bearing while I had the trans off.. I wont make that mistake again

I gravity bled the clutch cylinder the pedal feels nice again. There's no squeaking when pressing the clutch. It's just a constant tapping noise

The bearing on the right says 'JAPAN' on it. That's the one I used. The other bearing doesn't have any markings it came with the EXEDY clutch kit I bought a few years ago and has been on my car since with no issues

The forks are nearly identical except the retainer clip is a little different but looks like either one will work







I know I went a little crazy with the grease but I figured it wasn't a big deal.. is it?

here's the trans sitting on the ground at the junkyard after i pulled it. also took the left/driver's side axle cus the boot on my mine was ripped:



dat p20/b000:



all cleaned up and ready:



the oil i decided to go with (same stuff i use in the motor except 5W30 in motor):



freshly mated with her new best friend:

 

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Discussion Starter #2
The noise went away after a few drives. I drained the fluid to put some more fresh 10W-30 in and the noise came back a little. But it went away again after a few drives.

The noise wasn't there until I touched the clutch pedal

It's all good now though. I suppose I can still hear the faintest bit of tapping when pressing the clutch on a rare occurrence. But for the most part it's completely gone
 

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Cant speak on the trans but I can the bearing.

There is no way to test or tell if a bearing is good my hand alone.
Sure you can tell if its blown apart in pieces or seized up.

But you have no way of examining the contact surfaces (for fretting or corrosion) of the bearings inner and out race along with the rolling element or grease without pulling the seals or shields.

The only way to properly check would be to get it up to operating rpm and apply load which can be felt by hand.

Best bet when dealing with bearings just replace it if you can.

And never listen to the old guys who say just pump it full of new grease.
The number one cause of bearing failure is lubrication too much causes the bearings to slide and not rotate almost like hydroplaning.
Too much can also lead to the bearing overheating.
Too little can actually be better than too much in most cases.

Over greasing can cause the seals to be blown and excess grease attracts contaminates that get pulled into the bearing.
Think of it as cutting yourself while the blood is still wet its attracts dirt and debris same thing with excess grease.

Sorry about the bearing rant its all I have a little knowledge on in life
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
ok so the noise is not gone. it's just very quiet now. it's not just when i hit the clutch pedal anymore. i was starting to think maybe it was that hex bolt that can rub against the pressure plate

the thing is.. my whole clutch setup is a bit of a disaster. a few years ago my clutch went out i got one of those $100 EXEDY kits and managed to do my first clutch replacement in 2 nights with some buddies. when we were putting the flywheel and pressure plate on i had used a 2 foot breaker bar to snug all the bolts while my buddy was holding the flywheel teeth with a big flathead screw driver. i did my best to evenly tighten up the flywheel but yea... i still don't own a torque wrench yet

so anyways my clutch is all out of whack unbalanced

sounds a little like the fly wheel access panel touching the flywheel..
yea im starting to think it has something to do with the flywheel pressure plate or clutch. i had a rough time getting the trans input shaft splines to mate with the clutch and pilot bearing so i might have knocked something out of whack in that area. it may also be something related to the crappy $40 advance auto flywheel i used (that thing was like 60 lbs iirc)

the next time that trans comes back off it's getting a stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel

Cant speak on the trans but I can the bearing.
i appreciate your time. like i said i wont make the mistake of not replacing that thing while the trans is off again. but at this point im pretty sure the release bearing is good. the car i pulled the trans from at the junkyard had a bunch of paperwork sitting on the seat that i took with me. one of the things was a receipt $500 clutch replacement from 2016

as you can see in my picture i used more grease than i should have. other than clutch contamination from excess grease would it hurt anything else? smearing grease all over the release bearing can actually damage it?

i opened up the old Y7 tranny and as soon as i pulled the top off it lost some balls



 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
here are some random pics of the internals of the old Y7





the 3rd gear synchro with sleeve lifted up missing the spring:



the 4th gear synchro with the sleeve fallen down:



did i mix up 3rd/4th?
 

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Synchro needs to be replaced along with the synchro spring. The ball bearings are from the detents since you didn't remove them before splitting the case. The detent springs are likely jacked now. The 3/4 fork is probably worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Synchro needs to be replaced along with the synchro spring. The ball bearings are from the detents since you didn't remove them before splitting the case. The detent springs are likely jacked now. The 3/4 fork is probably worn out.
the synchro spring is the ring that was broken off and stuck to the magnet?

these detents you speak of are the little notches at the top of the shift forks?

i noticed those springs up there after i split it. they didn't seem bent or anything but yea i didn't know to remove those through the little access holes prior

oh well this is the first time i split a trans i'm not too worried about it. i'm using this as a learning experiment so one day i can rebuild my s20 with synchrotech
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oh yeah the 3/4 fork is done for



im bumping this thread because i edited it and added more pictures to my above posts if anyone is interested in checking em out
 
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