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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
never mind wednsday morning drinks


own me



w9ith a shit log mani and s,mallish turbo there is extra back pressure and charge contamination ./

almost alway will have a pingming in the mid load cruise ing ish no boost area ..

this is my 91 piss gas shit mani "tune"has a z6 cam but still relaventish .
I beat the shit out of this shit
Yeah it was supposed to be A/C compatible,I had bought it a good while back and it's what I had on hand so just used it. I do think I'll get a nice ramhorn style though since I ended up ditching all the AC stuff anyway. Thanks for posting your map. I pulled up SManager and had a look at a Y7 turbo map. Comparing mine to that one and others I've seen,my timing seemed a bit retarded in the first few columns especially around the 2550 to 3150 rpm area. I added about 3 degrees then set the boost tables to retard 1.25 per psi. So timing down low is more agressive but way less through boost. Uploaded the map and drove it around about an hour and it's way better. AFRs are still about the same. Seems to spool a little sooner and still managed over 14lbs. Still going to regap the plugs after it cools down. I'll report back my finding and maybe try to get a video.
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
You said the head had been milled a bit right? Block decked as well? I'd almost want to see you pull distributor timing back to 11* at hot idle with the connector jumped. (one full degree retarded from what it should be) Drive and see if ping ping rattle rattle click click was gone.

Just a thought if you don't want to mess with the map a ton. I would pull some timing up top though on that map though. Worst case, you send logs, DrT and I remote tune with you.
Yes block was decked and head was milled although I'm not sure how much . I was too excited to get the parts back from the machine shop to ask and felt like a dumbass later.New map this morning helped a bunch. My distributor is all the way towards the firewall as far as it'll go right now to get to 12. Could you just do 11 degrees in the idle part of the map and still achieve the same thing as rotating the distributor ? Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I'm really just burned out on messing with it and I've spent way more than I wanted to on this build,so it's disappointing when problems come up as I'm sure everyone has felt that way .
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
this area looks too advanced but if there is no more rattle ...

do you have a det can to listen ,,or looking at the plug strap?
View attachment 140299
I can try pulling a little timing from the area you suggested and see what happens. There's still room for improvement the noise isn't completely gone but probably 75% better than it was. No detcan and when I changed the plugs a couple thousand miles ago they looked good #4 was a little darker than the rest but not by much. Mark on the ground strap was right around where it makes the 90 degree bend. Nice light tan color and no deposits or anything.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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you answered the question of how much they milled off. Distributor has to be fully clocked to get 12*. Means they took off enough to require an adjustable timing gear. I would pull timing from the area that Rob suggested. Adding timing doesn't make detonation go away. Might make fuel knock go away, but never detonation. It either changed harmonics or .............. it's doing other fun stuff................lol

Rob knows what I mean. We've both been through the school of hard knocks, a few times.

Great to hear that you know how to read spark plugs. That literally is tuning 101 and most people skip that step. So you get the big (y) from me for that one. Heat line at the apex of the 90* ground strap and a slightly off white, but not tan or black with no black specks is right on the money. Which honestly can be a chore with a turbo D series.

Again, your rod bearings will thank you for pulling timing out while in boost..........well, honestly the block, head studs, head gasket, ring lands, ring pack, pretty much the whole thing will thank you for pulling timing while in boost. Might not feel as good at the same boost levels, but it will have a better chance of lasting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
oh that other stuff..:)


don't be afraid to use the brakes to add load to keep it in a cel longer while testing ,
Thank you that's a really good idea I haven't thought of. It can be hard to do and drive but luckily there are plenty of desolate country roads around here,not that I recommend it. I usually get my girl to ride along and make adjustments while I drive. Before the Ostrich I'd just have to log then come home and make corrections,burn a new chip,then drive and repeat. Got old real fast so the Ostrich has been great. And thanks Soul I have tried to read everything I can,watch videos,etc to learn as much as possible and although I hate asking for help,sometimes you just have to.I will fine tune some more tomorrow and report back.Thanks again to everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
To quote the movie "escape from planet earth":

"What is it with aliens and this desolate roadside 7 Eleven?"

Definitely recommend street tuning with a co-pilot and on roads off the beaten path :)
Especially when you're on the radar of the locals finest protectors and servants of the law ! I have the utmost respect for police as my brother is a retired Metro Nashville officer and current Wilson County deputy. I passed a local cruiser last month around 930 in the evening,the town is a known speed trap and the limit is 40 so I was doing 40. He passed and made a U turn and followed me for about a mile where I needed to turn left to go to my girlfriend's house. Turn left and he keeps going but makes another U turn and follows me to her house where I pull up in the driveway.He sits in the road for a second behind my car but when my girlfriend gets out he takes off,I'm like wtf ? I hadn't been raising hell or speeding and the car is real low profile with full exhaust. A few dumbasses give imports a bad name but it's not like 2005 when they were everywhere. But yeah definetly better to be safe. If I had known what I know now I would have had it professionally tuned after the build. By the time you buy a wideband and tuning equipment you're north of $500 which is what Jason Waters quoted me. Live and learn :rolleyes:
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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And you will be better off knowing how to tune the car. Because now if you do a cam change, or add something else, you can make the adjustment, instead of paying him another $500 to re-tune it. I've been down both roads.


And while we're at it, let's see some pics of this beast!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
And you will be better off knowing how to tune the car. Because now if you do a cam change, or add something else, you can make the adjustment, instead of paying him another $500 to re-tune it. I've been down both roads.


And while we're at it, let's see some pics of this beast!
That's very true. It's not always possible to get to a tuner or maybe funds are low. I figured they had to learn somehow and so could I.

Sure I'll post a few pics. I've had this car for about 10 years and only decided to start working on it a couple years ago.

2000 LX sedan this was right before I boosted it
Car Automotive side marker light Wheel Land vehicle Tire


Engine bay

Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Car


Engine build in my spare bedroom lol
Automotive tire Camera accessory Camera lens Motor vehicle Gas


Speedfactory rods and Vitaras

Automotive tire Gas Bicycle part Auto part Rim


ARP studs and rotating assembly done
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive wheel system
Made a cover from aluminum to hide the ugly holes from auto to manual conversion
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gear shift Gas Machine


Vibrant Steetpower 2.5 muffler with Vibrant resonator
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire


Last one
Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Car Vehicle


I have TONS of pics and just about every receipt I've spent on it. It turned out ok I think and has come a long way but there's always something else to do !
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Looks like it turned out great!
I appreciate that man! It's been a long road for sure. Chassis has 345K on it and the stock Y7 and auto trans was still going strong when I pulled them,which is why I built a D series. My K24 has not been nearly as reliable but in it's defense,wasn't maintained very well by the previous owner.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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My K24 has not been nearly as reliable but in it's defense,wasn't maintained very well by the previous owner.
Miss one oil change or intake system cleaning on a k and you might as well tear it out and rebuild it, it seems like sometimes.
 

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Miss one oil change or intake system cleaning on a k and you might as well tear it out and rebuild it, it seems like sometimes.
My favorite on a K series is a code P2646 when one of the two oil filter screens gets clogged and it loses it's crap. Won't rev, won't accelerate........ Silliness!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Miss one oil change or intake system cleaning on a k and you might as well tear it out and rebuild it, it seems like sometimes.
Mines pretty sludged up from the previous owner not maintaining it. Had to do a timing chain replacement and don't care for the oil pressure operated tensioner. Replaced starter twice and alternator once. Replaced both cooling fans,VTEC solenoid,and radiator,all 4 endlinks,intake pipe that goes to the airbox,and a host of other bits and pieces. It does have 285K on it but it's paid for so I figure when it goes I'll buy a used JDM engine and drop it in and keep rollin' .
 

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That's what happens when you give 100% control to a computer, it will do wtf it wants. Ill never daily a car that dosent have something mechanical linking my feet and hands to the controls, and never any "safety" systems that can override my input by more than 25%, all that shyt is dangerous, the DRIVER is and always will be the most important saftey feature of a vehicle, ANY vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
My favorite on a K series is a code P2646 when one of the two oil filter screens gets clogged and it loses it's crap. Won't rev, won't accelerate........ Silliness!
Oh I loved that ! Feels like it cuts the fuel at like 2800 RPM . The screen in the VTEC solenoid is easy enough to clean but the other one on the front is kinda a pain to get at if I remember correctly. Did mine when I did the chain for cheap insurance. They definitely will let you know when the oils dirty !
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
That's what happens when you give 100% control to a computer, it will do wtf it wants. Ill never daily a car that dosent have something mechanical linking my feet and hands to the controls, and never any "safety" systems that can override my input by more than 25%, all that shyt is dangerous, the DRIVER is and always will be the most important saftey feature of a vehicle, ANY vehicle.
I agree 100%. I work with these systems everyday and no way I would own one. We had a lady who brought her car in complaining that the steering just didn't feel right,so the tech looking at it starts the car and the steering wheel goes to full lock in less than a second. Turns out there's an electric motor on the steering rack tied into all kind of electronic nannies that went berzerk. Engineering said that can't happen but somebody dropped the ball because it damned sure did.If she had been on the interstate it probably would have killed her.Hell some of the ones we work on have no steering shaft that physically connects to the wheel to the rack. It has a position sensor that reports to the motor on the steering rack. They steer like shit too,no feel like a video game.
 
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